|The Admiral||25/07/2014 16:05:06|
12 forum posts
I'm hoping to again some input from the wise heads on the forum.
we moved into our new house in April, and I'm just getting round now to sorting out the workshop. It's an old boat shed, as the previous owners kept a boat, and is pretty sturdy - although the roof needs replacing begin to long, and - and this is the point of the post, some of the boards which make up the walls are cupped, and light (and the weather) is clearly able to penetrate.
ideally I'd like to insulate and ply line, and put in some windows, but there seems little point at this stage if it's not weather tight. The boards are in good nick and have clearly been treated pretty regularly, but the wall with the main issue is south facing and consequently gets a lot of sun. The construction is weatherboard on a timber frame.
I'm thinking it could be as simple as screwing the boards back with some tropicalised screws, but do I then need to line it with a proofed martial before using a foam insulation? The previous owner had used the temporary measure of hanging white tarps, as he stored furniture in there, but that's not a long term solution clearly!
I'd welcome any thoughts.
|Ron Davis||25/07/2014 20:56:51|
1607 forum posts
The only answer I can think of is to remove the boards and put in a vapour proof membrane, you may be able to replace the boards, depending how well they come off. then you can insulate and ply the inside.
|Amos Starkadder||16/08/2014 07:53:20|
25 forum posts
I'm pretty sure I got my shed construction right, it's based on reading the old issues of GW when they did a series on sheds a few years ago:
On the outside of a 2 x 4 timber frame, screw OSB board (the 18mm roof quality turned out to be cheap enough to compete with other thicknesses - read up about OSB online). I used Kreg self-tapping pocket screws that require a square-ended driver, turns out they are weatherproof and they fix so well onto the bit that you can reach difficult places easily whilst they are stuck on the end of your electric screwdriver. Then fix builders paper (Wickes again) using a stapler, then vertical tanalised battens, then tanalised tongue & groove cladding + outdoor finish of your choice (yes I even used Kreg screws for this too - and no sign of decay after 5 years).
On the inside, stuff the spaces in between your 2 x 4 frame with insulating material (after you've ensured the electrics are OK), staple up sheets of builder's plastic sheeting/waterproof membrane and screw some thinner OSB boards on top of that, again using Kreg screws. Mark the position of any cables onto the inside OSB because you'll find yourself screwing all sorts of things to the walls. OSB board joints should match up with your frame verticals, the screw and joint positions should be a guide to where the load bearing places are for future shelving etc. but it might be worth pencilling these lines onto the boards too.
Take care to ensure you have a damp-proof layer at the bottom of your frame, or at least have some means of throwing the rain away from the OSB outer walls, the builder's paper ensures a little damp will spread out and evaporate in the cavities behind the cladding but it won't cope with floods or heavy direct rain.
I'm told that's a "25 year build" but I guess with care it'd last a lot longer than that.
Wickes is a good source of a lot of the materials you'll need, check out their instruction sheets.
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