|11 forum posts|
I dont know if any of you experts out there can help me with this little problem. I have a SIP 01332 10in table saw and I need some spares namely a Riving knife and a table insert for the blade ( Which is damaged) I looked on SIP site and while I can see a part No for the Riving knife and a picture representation for the blade insert there is no reference to it at all. I cotacted SIP and was that they obviously dont supply as it is not listed in the parts list, now I find it very strange that a part is shown but not listed.Anybody have any knowledge of this or suggestions.
Thanks in anticipation
|Derek Lane||19/02/2013 12:49:58|
3206 forum posts
At least you can get the riving knife which would be hard to make or have made.
With the insert how deep is the recess for it if it is say about 1/4" then you could replace it with a wooden one made from something like MDF. Which is good as you could also make one with zero clearence for finer cuts.
Or if you are lucky some one may have the items from a broken machine
Edited By Derek Lane on 19/02/2013 12:51:14
|Simon Reeves||19/02/2013 13:03:22|
622 forum posts
See what you mean about the drawing. I have the same saw (fortunately undamaged ). ALthough it looks like you can get a new riving knife for only a few quid, you could always make a table insert from hardwood.
I watched a New Yankee Workshop program several years ago, where Norm made one. All he did to make the slot was to have the blade below the insert once it was properly sized and screwed in place, then advanced the blade very slowy upwards until it cut through the insert. Not sure how safe this might be, but I would have thought as long as you were not in the "firing line" as you made the cut it would be OK. It would also give you a zero tolerance slot, altough the dust extraction might suffer.
I found that the insert as supplied sits just a bit too far below the table surface, which meant that a workpiece with a newly cut lower front edge could catch on the outfeed end. I ended up putting some small shims under the plate to raise it a tad.
|Big Al||19/02/2013 13:40:01|
|1593 forum posts|
I too have this saw, and I have made some insert's from birch ply, not too difficult to make, but if you use the technique that simon describes for cutting through the insert, you would have to repeat it at 45 degree's and open up the slot so that you could use it on all angles. Also if you intend to attach the riving knife then you would have to lengthen the slot to accommodate the riving knife.
547 forum posts
Hi Simon, -- I think if memory is correct Norm used the fence to stop the insert from lifting out of the table. He slid it over the insert but not so far as it caught the blade as it came through the new wood.
|Simon Reeves||20/02/2013 13:31:48|
622 forum posts
I think you're right Julian. Also, as Al says, you would need to open the slot in both directions to make it work in all circumstances. I haven't done it yet, but having chopped a whole lot of oak recently, where I had several pieces that caught slightly on the small lip on the outfeed, I'm thinking about making a better fit insert myself.
Al - did you find it made any difference to the dust extraction? Although I have a good Record extractor attached to the saw I find that lots of the sawdust seems to end up inside the casing and on the floor rather than being extracted properly. Sorry to hijack the thread a bit, but it's all useful info.
|Big Al||20/02/2013 16:05:01|
|1593 forum posts|
Simon, the only difference to the dust extraction wasn't noticable, even though the inserts that I made were on for 90 degree cuts and therefore zero tolerance slot.
I have often commented on how bad the dust extraction is on this machine, every now and then I move the saw to clean all of the dust from underneath it. In my opinion the dust collection is very poorly designed on this saw. However I do like my saw, and considering how cheap it is you get a lot of machine for not a lot of money.
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