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Dark oak stain

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Peter Farnell12/01/2013 14:44:15
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I am refinishing two small dark oak table tops for a friend to remove scratches and dents in the surface. I scraped and sanded the tops to the original wood and dicovered they are veneered and capped blockboard with a very thin veneer. I now need to stain the tops to mac=tch the frames. I tried a commercial (Wickes) dark oak stain but it produces a "zebra" effect because the stain doesn't take on the denser parts of the grain. Do I need to use a pigmented filler of some sort and how is it best applied? Any advice would be very welcome.

Doug13/01/2013 08:47:56
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3415 forum posts
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Whilst possibly a little late, prior to staining it`s a good idea to apply a coat of sanding sealer that is compatible with the stain. This will seal the surface & so help prevent uneven absorption of the stain.

Cheers

Eugene Anderson26/01/2013 16:21:10
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Posted by Peter Farnell on 12/01/2013 14:44:15:

I am refinishing two small dark oak table tops for a friend to remove scratches and dents in the surface. I scraped and sanded the tops to the original wood and dicovered they are veneered and capped blockboard with a very thin veneer. I now need to stain the tops to mac=tch the frames. I tried a commercial (Wickes) dark oak stain but it produces a "zebra" effect because the stain doesn't take on the denser parts of the grain. Do I need to use a pigmented filler of some sort and how is it best applied? Any advice would be very welcome.

Peter, only just seen your post so expect I am a little late.

To solve your problem (It sounds as though you have gone through the veneer) I can see the only way to get a consistant surface and thereby a consistant finish would be to re-veneer the tables.

The top would need to be flattened and clean but then the world is your oyster as regards to veneering, maybe some Oak burr in the centre surrounded by oak cross-banding, with a biy of black line separating the two.

I don't know if you are being paid for the job or if it a favour but I can't see filler doing the job.

Andy

Peter Farnell26/01/2013 16:32:00
18 forum posts
18 photos

Thanks to Eugene and Doug for your help. No, I didn't go through the veneer!! I have it sorted now. I hand sanded the tops with 240 grade W&D used dry, which left a much more receptive surface. I then mixed several oil basd stains together and managed to get a match. I was quite surprised how much more stain was taken when the machine sanded surface was taken off!! Cheers!

Nathan john15/03/2013 11:02:10
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18 forum posts

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