|Terry Owens||16/08/2012 13:01:33|
|3 forum posts|
The blade on my secondhand bandsaw does not run at 90 degrees to the table, this means in order to get a parallel cut the fence needs to be adjust so it is about 5 degrees off where it should be. The tyres are not in the best condition and all of the blades came with the machine when I bought it. I have also had to build a new lower blade guide as the cast aluminium one had been over tightened and had broken.
|Derek Lane||17/08/2012 09:54:18|
3219 forum posts
Is it a 2 wheel or three wheel bandsaw. One thing to check first with all the guides backed off is the tracking of the blade on the wheels, Then set up the guides once this is done if it is still running out then can the fence be adjusted this can only be done once you run a piece of wood through following a straight line, stop the cut half way through and stop the machine, clamp the wood where you stopped it and then adjust the fence along the wood. Hopefully every time you cut it should be in line.
If it is a 2 wheel have a look on Axminsters site and look at there bandsaws if it looks similar to any of them download their manual which will give you an idea how they are set up. Remember it is only a guide as there may be differences. Or better still see if you can locate a nutool guide, if you put the model number down someone may help
|Terry Owens||17/08/2012 12:24:29|
|3 forum posts|
Sorry I don't know where my head was when I posted my first post.
My bandsaw is a NuTool BS14-2, it has two wheels, I've never had a bandsaw before and I have not cut anything on this one yet. I will back off the guides this afternoon and see what happens. I did download a pdf on setting up a bandsaw and followed the instructions. If the blade tracks in the middle of the tyres then it seems to me the blade teeth offset might be the culprit. Is this possible?
|Derek Lane||17/08/2012 13:01:11|
3219 forum posts
you are not the only one i should of said welcome to the site.
You just reminded me of another thing which is that you don't always know what the person before had used the saw for if they cut alot of circles this may upset the blade so a new blade may be the order of the day then set up again(which is what needs doing for every blade change).
I can only advise what I have picked up myself as I have only owned a bandsaw for less than a year.
Hope you get sorted soon
1635 forum posts
Derek describes an excellent way of adjusting your rip fence to compensate for "drift." However, as I saw posted by the very expert Steve Maskery on another forum recently, there shouldn't be any drift and anyway correcting drift in this way means that the mitre fence slots will be out of true with the blade. Steves says that what you should be doing is correcting the drift at source. i.e tracking on the drive wheels. Move all blade guides well clear of the blade and then adjust the tracking until you can rip cut parallel to the mitre fence slots. This may mean that your blade is not running centrally on the drive wheel but don't worry so long as the blade continues to run in the same position on the wheels. Put the blade guides into the correct positions, align your rip fence with the slots and you're done. This needs to be repeated each time you put a blade (new or used) on to your machine.
Try it. It's easy and it works.
|Ron Davis||17/08/2012 20:00:21|
1619 forum posts
Hi terry, you say that you have a second hand bandsaw, are you still using the balde that came with it If so I would change it sharpish. I get mine from Hamilton Beaverstock, mainly because I can talk to them at various trade shows, but there are other suppliers. basic rule of any budget tools, put a decent blade as soon as you get it!
I set my blade with the teeth on the front edge of the wheel, the tyres are slightly domed and this means the teeth do not run on the wheel and blunt the left side.
You have done the right thing in getting a pdf with setting up instructions, try to find a DVD by Alan Holtham as well
Edited By Ron Davis on 17/08/2012 20:01:18
386 forum posts
Hi Terry , Have you tried to adjust the table , on some machines you can loosen the bolts below the table and tweak it to help bring the mitre track / slot inline/parrallel with the blade , I was able to on my BS400 and got it very close , it takes a bit of time and waste timber as trial and error .
Kind regards Sam
|Terry Owens||18/08/2012 11:45:44|
|3 forum posts|
Thank you all for the help, I have ordered a new blade from Tuff saws and I have watched a couple of videos on YouTube. It seems I also had the blade tension too tight. I did see some useful bits of kit for the bandsaw while I was watching the vids and I'll use the time, waiting for the new blade, to make some of them in my metal working shop.
I'll post the results when I get it all together. Terry
Edited By Terry Owens on 18/08/2012 11:46:28
|Bart Garber||27/08/2012 20:22:41|
|10 forum posts|
This video might help you to have a nice setup on your saw: http://www.finewoodworking.com/ToolGuide/ToolGuideArticle.aspx?id=34055
BTW, I am a happy customer of www.sawblade.com. They cater good quality blades in less expensive prices. Cuts like cutting through butter!
Please login to post a reply.
Want the latest issue of The Woodworker & Good Woodworking? Use our magazine locator links to find your nearest stockist!
We're always happy to hear from you, so feel free to get in touch!