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equipment for spraying

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zac wingfield09/01/2012 11:37:31
58 forum posts
1 photos
hi again everyone.
 
in my new workshop i have allocated a section for spraying our MDF sheets. ive never sprayed before so i'm after some advice.
 
can anyone recommend some kit or a particular supplier?
 
my main concern is i dont have a water supply in this shop so i'm not sure how i'm going to handle the daily clean up!
 
thanks
zac
 
Doug09/01/2012 16:47:42
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3415 forum posts
35 photos
Hi Zac.
 
I`m hoping to get a dedicated spray room set up this year, at the moment i just use a gravity feed gun off a compresser, but will eventually get one of the Apollo HVLP turbine units, probably the pro-spray, as i`ve heard good reports from folks who use them.
 
 
Cheers.
 
Doug.
Mailee09/01/2012 19:58:47
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1048 forum posts
1235 photos
Hi again Zac. What finishes do you intend to use? I often paint MDF and use AC laquer. I don't like the water based as it is difficult to use without the correct setup and booth. I have a large compressor and use a gravity fed HVLP gun for my spraying. At the moment I am still setting up the shop and the spray area is no where near finished yet, but when it is I intend to have a mixing area and a spraying area separated from the main workshop with drying racks, extractor, filters, and turntable. A lot of guys recommend the turbine units although I have never used one myself. I do know you need to go for the non bleed guns though. HTH.
Kevin Higgins09/01/2012 21:20:36
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54 forum posts
5 photos
Hi Zac ,
 
I use a Fuji HVLP spray gun . I dont do huge amounts of spraying but I find this machine excellent . I got it off Rutlands . I once worked for a bigger company and did a lot of spraying , they had a compresser fed Kremlin gun which drew the paint direct from large containers (25L) . It was a brilliant and almost foolproof system . Excellent results all the time. Of course , they had a dedicated spray shed with extractors and heated drying room.
 
Regards,
Kevin.
zac wingfield09/01/2012 21:30:00
58 forum posts
1 photos
many thanks.
 
the plan is to use a water based white mdf paint for the base coat then once dried put all the work pieces through a denibber then another coat of water based mdf colour depending on customer requirements.
 
so what kind of finish does the AC lacquer giv you. would you say it was a factory finish?
 
looks like they've got some nice looking kits here: http://www.hvlpshop.co.uk/
 
but ive got quite a bit of reserch to do before i make decision.
 
the name Apollo keeps coming up though....
 
thanks
zac
 
Mailee09/01/2012 22:35:33
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1048 forum posts
1235 photos
I can't comment on the water based AC Zac but the solvent based stuff from Morrells is great. It dries pretty rapid so avoiding a lot of dust pick up. It does give close to a factory finish but of course it is dependant on how it is applied and where. HTH.
Richie Dabrowski18/12/2012 20:40:25
1 forum posts

Hi to everyone! New to forum etc...

I have Fuji Q4 for last 10 years, never did really use it until recently when I had to go back to cabinetry world...

I have sprayed few items and few car panels, have some broad knowledge but no real experince or training and I'm looking for someone with turbine experience wishing to help by answering few questions.

Currently I'm on AC from Morrels and I like it much better than pre-cut used 10 years ago. I have sprayed some 2K on cars and in my opinion it is easer to apply than wood finishes.

Recently bought new gun from Fuji (gravity seems so much better to use than suction-my previous one)

Now to my problems - AC from M. is Ready for use and not recomended by Morrels to thin more than 15% , (Fuji booklet sais start from 25%...) after adding 15% the time to empty viscosity cup is about 15sec.(20-30sec recomended by Fuji for AC lacquer) BUT I'M STILL GETING ORANGE PEEL!

I want to make my living by respraing kitchens but don't want to provide mediocore finish so please help!

Of course mateial can be thinned down even further but in best case scenario it becomes to runny for vertical surfaces and looses opacity co more coats needed... Worse case manufacturer sais that overthinned may get problems with curing, cracking etc.

What I'm doing wrong?

I have a feeling that turbine is not powerfull enough to atomise this material, if i turn the amount of paint to air ratio down the spraying becomes very slow and it is difficult to do a wet coat that would flow nice together. Hence considering Huge compressor setup... pricey but might be necessary?

Big thanks to anyone wishing to help!

Richie

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