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small shed23/06/2011 16:47:10
16 forum posts
I would like to make a box jointer, could anybody tell me what size peg to make for the next slot, if i use a 1/4 straight router bit.
I am new to woodworking, but loving it
 
small shed
Drew Marsh23/06/2011 20:33:31
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52 forum posts
26 photos
Now this is a thread I am going to keep a close eye on... I too have been toying with the idea of making such a jig, but have had no idea where to start. Is the Jig to be used on a router table?
 
I would be grateful if you could upload any photos/ status of your makings .
 
Drew
BillW23/06/2011 21:18:28
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711 forum posts
21 photos
I've made one using this, watch the video, it is only for 1/4" and my peg is 1/4".
I've only used it to fine tune it, not made a box with it.
 
Bill.
small shed24/06/2011 08:39:12
16 forum posts
Hi BillW
thanks for the reply, i have watched the video. I will try and copy that one.
Mailee26/06/2011 00:04:39
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1048 forum posts
1235 photos
This is the one I made:

Very simple but effective. The router bit protrudes through the table and the base board of the jig which is slotted. The wood is held to the push block and pushed over the bit. If it is too tight the base board is tapped over very slightly until it is a perfect fit. Once set you can run off box joints very quickly. I also use a spiral cutter. I made one for 1/2" and another for 1/4"
Ron Davis26/06/2011 21:09:38
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1618 forum posts
201 photos
Thanks Mailee, I can see where mine went wrong! I had it at 90degrees to yours and it lack a fine adjuster. Iwas using it to joint MDF to make the fort I made for a local school and for drawers for my new router table, I found that the MDF needed a slightly looser fit than for wood, otherwise the MDF breaks up when you assemble it, i also made the sled wider so as to support the back from break ot and for MDF in particular, a bit of MDF in front to stop it leaving a feathery edge, I could save my pennies for the spiral cutters though.
 
I am using worktp for the top and i have yet to get the aluminimum chsnnel for the mitre guage, where did yours come from MAilee please,
 
Ron
Mailee26/06/2011 21:17:19
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1048 forum posts
1235 photos
I bought my ally channel from Rutlands Ron.
small shed27/06/2011 09:52:45
16 forum posts
Thank's Mailee, for your photo's. But am i alittle thick,! but where is the locating peg on your jig. Does it run along the black chanell, as in photo because the board is camped to the table. Do you slide it from front to back. I did say i was new to woodworking. Even though i have a long engineering background
 
Thank's Small shed
Mailee27/06/2011 21:26:33
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1048 forum posts
1235 photos
Well Small shed, I think rather than trying to explain it this may help:
http://us.oak-park.com/catalogue.html?list=boxj-- This is where I got the idea from for it. Watch the video demonstration and it will explain all. HTH.
BillW27/06/2011 21:46:53
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711 forum posts
21 photos
Your not the only one that's a bit thick Small shed, I can't work it out either.
 
Is the video working for others, not working for me at the moment (I am on my mobile dongle).
 
Bill.
Simon Reeves28/06/2011 12:53:36
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622 forum posts
227 photos
I couldn't see it at first, and the video doesn't work for me either. However, there is a link directly below the "Launch Video demonstration" button that makes everything clear (to me at least).
 
It looks as though this design is more than just a box/comb joint jig, as you can use it to make dados and sliding dovetails as well - quite handy.
 
Simon
 
PS - Rutlands have a special offer on the T-track channel right now if anyone was thinking of making this jig (or anything else that uses 3/4" track)

Edited By Simon Reeves on 28/06/2011 12:58:20

Ron Davis28/06/2011 19:23:48
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1618 forum posts
201 photos
Small shed, There is no peg on this type of box jig, you rout a groove in the sled which then goes over the rail on Mailee's photo, when you cut the first groove in your workpiece you push it against the rail and holding it against the sled, make the first cut, then move the work piece so that the firscut goes over the rail, and cut he second, keep on doing this untill you have cut right across the work oiece. On the second one use the first cut on the first workpiece as a spacer and make the first cut with that and continue as before, if you have the spaces set right then the joint will fit,
I am making a new router table with six drawers, all box joints cut in the way
 
I will post pics when I have finished my table.
 
Being a bit tight and on a minimal budget, I tried to think of a cheap way to creat the chanell, can any one say why a plastic one will not work, I have some electrical conduit, 25mm wide, which if securely fixed would do the job for a table with light use.
 
Ron
BillW28/06/2011 21:19:46
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711 forum posts
21 photos
The plastic conduit sounds like a good idea in principal Ron my only concern would be a consistent width.
I would think on the lines of thicknessing a piece of wood to fit in the track, the full length of the proposed track, make the grove it is going to fit in slightly wider and set the track in epoxy.
 
Plastic tends to be a bit "sticky" on starting and stopping but OK when moving.
 
Bill.
Mailee28/06/2011 22:18:47
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1048 forum posts
1235 photos
Yes sorry guys, I didn't realise the video wasn't working on the site, (I didn't test it) Ron has it spot on that is how this jig is used. I have to admit I did originally make another type of jig for the router table for box joint jigs but this one is so simple and easy to use I always use it now.  Oh and by the way have you thought of some aluminium channel section for the router table? I am not sure how much it is but I did notice B&Q sell it along with other ally sections. Might be worth a look.

Edited By Mailee on 28/06/2011 22:20:35

small shed29/06/2011 07:17:07
16 forum posts
Thank's Mailee for all the info, i think i understand now , going to give it a try.
Also thanks Ron.
 
Small shed
 
p.s. Had problem putting this post on page

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