|Roy B||27/02/2011 19:40:34|
|11 forum posts||I am in the process of building a loncase clock it is generally straightforward construction but I am experiencing difficulty with making the wooden mouldings. The clock has an arch dial and therefore the topof the hood has to follow the shape of the arch which is not a true arc. I have made a moulding by cutting a piece of oak from the solid and then put a decorative edge on wih a hand held router. the result is only average. Does anyone have any suggestions as to a method of creating an arched moulding approx. 25mm wide. I do not possess a table router.|
1048 forum posts
I don't know what you mean by the result is only average? Can you elaborate Roy? As for using a router table, you could just make one out of some mdf clamped down to a workmate but you would need to use a lead on pin for a curved moulding. A bearing guided router cutter is the thing to use in hand held mode but you would need the wood piece holding down with double sided tape and a half base plate the same thickness as the timber you are moulding. Really need to know more info, sorry.
|Roy B||28/02/2011 10:07:02|
|11 forum posts||Thankls for your response Mailee, when I use the word average I mean that moulding does not have the sharpness and crispness of a shop bought moulding. My difficulty has been that I can only cut out the moulding with a jig saw with any degree of accuracy but this means that i do not get a nice sharp edge to the work. As you suggest I am using a bearing guided router cutter but this follows my saw cut warts and all.I agree with your suggestion for the table mounted router but it does seem somewhat hazardous to say the least.|
|Simon Reeves||28/02/2011 13:26:21|
622 forum posts
Could you not just make a simple template of the arch in say 6mm MDF or ply, sanded and smoothed to shape? If you attach/stick this to the arch you can use a bearing guided trimming cutter to make the final smooth cut on the arch itself. Alternatively, just sand the arch smooth, either by hand or machine, and use a bearing guided shaped cutter (eg ogee, cove or whatever) against the now smooth edge to make the final profile?
Take a look at the photos of the upholstered stool I made, which is all curves. After the initial cutting out on a bandsaw I used a template and a top-guided trimming cutter to smooth the roghness of the bandsaw cuts, followed by a small roundover cutter to ease the sharp edges.
|John Kinch||28/02/2011 15:15:38|
|206 forum posts|
Hi roy, I have made several grandmother clocks with arched tops and what Simon said is the way to go. Hand routing this shape is not really practical or safe. You must make the arch shape longer than required and cut it to size later. Also you need to cut the S shape onthe band saw after all the detail shaping is finished. Then use a ply jig trimmed and shaped,sanded smooth to guide the bearing of the router bit around the shape. See clock picks in my album.
1048 forum posts
Ah I see now, Yes as John and Simon have suggested that is the way to go. Any cut from a bearing guided cutter will mirror any defects in the wood. The edge must be sanded well to get a clean cut. The template idea is the best way to go without a doubt.
|Alan T.||28/02/2011 22:33:40|
|1033 forum posts|
Hi Guys, Iv'e just looked at John K's album in response to the prompt in his post above.
I just have to say I'm full of praise for the long case clocks. Don't know how I missed them before. Can we see more detailed pics or a how to John. Well done anyway. Regards Alan T.
|Roy B||01/03/2011 19:04:09|
|11 forum posts|
thanks to all the very comprehensive and informative replies I agree with john and simon that the way forward is to produce a template and from that make the actual moulding. It is nice to be able to pick such willing brains and in doing so increase my own abilities which is I suppose the idea of these forums having said that they are only as good as the people the contrbute thats why I picked this one. Once again thanks to everyone.
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