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Damaged Bandsaw Tyres

In need of some advice, please.

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Olly Parry-Jones18/02/2010 23:32:24
2776 forum posts
636 photos
Hi guys,
I am now the proud owner of a large Startrite 401E bandsaw.
 It is second-hand (I could never have afforded a new one!!) and I was made aware of one major issue before agreeing to buy it - there is a serious issue with blade tracking. Basically, wide blades will not stay on the wheels once you switch the saw on.

All was fine until a wide blade snapped recently and retracted back up in to the upper cabinet. This was when the seller noticed this damage to the tyres.

I've spoken to Startrite and they could only suggest the purchase of a new wheel, as the tyres are bonded directly on to the wheel. At a cost of over £160 + VAT though , I'm first willing to consider other options!!
I have reason to believe some kind of filler may work but, I wouldn't know which type to go for. Google doesn't bring up a lot of answers though, someone suggested body filler to me, as it's easy to shape (ie. match the camber of the wheels).
If anyone has any suggestions, I'd be grateful to hear from you. I don't want to even think about hacking the old tyre off and replacing it right now as that's an awful lot of work and mess...
Thanks for reading,
Sparky19/02/2010 00:27:43
7631 forum posts
22 photos
Great machine!!
All I could offer you is to use car body filler, it is hard enough (once dry) to act as metal but, I wouldn't want you to do it and then it broke off and either injured you or damaged the machine even more.......I hope someone else who has used this method will reply.
Its really easy to use, the same as wood filler, sanded down to shape after it dries.
Other idea would be welding the cast alloy wheel..though I'm sure you need to be some expert due to its high melting temperature for welding.
Good luck anyway.
Marc .....and jealous
Olly Parry-Jones19/02/2010 09:13:02
2776 forum posts
636 photos
Thanks, Marc.
 Yes, when I told the man from Startrite that I would rather try and fill it first (I've got nothing to lose if I'd have to dispose of the old tyre, anyway) he did suggest car body filler, because it is easy to shape.
Like you, my main concern is that it does dry rock-hard... I certainly wouldn't want it to jump off at any stage and I do wonder whether it would be so hard that it knocks the side off the inside face of the blades?
I think I should be looking for a polyurethane that won't eat away at the rubber...This stuff is usually a little 'rubbery' once dry and certainly won't do any damage (...I usually might make a lot of mess with this stuff, though!! )
George Arnold19/02/2010 10:56:10
1834 forum posts
191 photos
I do not think body filler would be advisable, it is not flexible, I wonder if you went to a tyre depot and got the rubber strip they repair tyers with, and the adhesive, and try to inlay a strip to replace the damaged  tyre, you may have to dress it down to match the profile.,
 Just my first thoughts on the subject.
Ps If you add any thing that weighs heavier than the rubber you will throw the wheel out of ballance causing viabration,

Edited By George Arnold on 19/02/2010 11:01:56

Oddjob19/02/2010 11:13:04
1635 forum posts
79 photos
If it is just the tyre that is damaged you could try the stuff that is sold for re-building worn down shoe heels.  I've seen it advertised in "Telegraph Offers" several times.  No doubt it is also available elsewhere - perhaps if you Google "shoe repairs" you might find it.  I notice that there is a reference to it on the other site.
Olly Parry-Jones19/02/2010 19:39:32
2776 forum posts
636 photos
Well, this morning, I gave it a good clean, got it set up with a 1/2" blade and can't find anything wrong as I run the wheels by hand (still need to get a 16amp socket wired in - hopefully next week).The blade seems to run perfectly, tracked on the centre of the tyre.
Then again, as I suspected initially, these imperfections are probably only going to have an effect on the widest blades (the tyre is 30mm wide) - you can do an awful lot with narrow blades and I have done until now with my 12" SIP saw.
In the manual, Startrite advise you should run the blades with the points of the teeth overhanging the front of the wheel... To be honest, I don't see why I shouldn't keep running them centrally on top of the crown - anyone know anything different
Still, it would be nice to get it patched up some time and I do appreciate your suggestions - thanks to both of you. George, the un-balancing effect is a very important point I wouldn't have otherwise considered!
I will (very carefully) try fitting the 25mm blade I have and see how that goes. If I can get even a 3/4" blade on there successfully then I'm satisfied. I used one recently on my small saw and I really noticed the difference it made in keeping the cut straight and true.
Thank you.

All I need now is some power!!
jay 119/02/2010 20:11:05
72 forum posts
6 photos
loctite do a metal compound two part great stuff you can sand it as well when its dry but its costs a few pound we use in work go two the loctite web site
Delete20/02/2010 00:15:37
575 forum posts
I dont believe a hard filler will do the job. The tyre which is damaged is basically a soft covering to the metal wheel. if the wheel were damaged I would say use an Epoxy filler. West Epoxy is a good system.
To repair the rubber tyre i would reccomend a rubber look alike. There is a very good product called Sikkaflex. It is a Polysulphide Caulking used in the boat industry. It dries in the presence of moisture in the atmosphere. You can get a primer although this may not be necessary. I would key the metal surface by abrading it. then build up the Sikkaflex so it is proud of rhe final diameter required, and allow it to dry. Leave it a couple of days.
Once the Sikkaflex is well hardened spin the wheel apply a sanding block whish is hinged to something firm this way you can sand the sikkaflex to a surface which complements the original tyre.
I hope this is clear. I know what I mean the problem is do you?
That is quite a nice piece of kit you have. I also bought a Second hand Big Bandsaw. a Minimax. I hope you will be as pleased with yours as I am with mine.
Olly Parry-Jones20/02/2010 09:39:42
2776 forum posts
636 photos
Hi Roger,
Incidentally, I contacted Silka yesterday and their only suggestion was to get hold of a fairly stiff windscreen adhesive. It should be stiff enough to replace and will dry to a hard, rubbery polyurethane. I guess he means the stuff for filling cracks an small holes that goes off quickly?
Alan T.22/02/2010 11:05:05
1033 forum posts
98 photos
Hello guys, I think he meant the adhesive that is used to fix modern windscreens to the car body. Cheers  Alan T.
Ron Davis22/02/2010 17:26:53
1618 forum posts
201 photos
Hi Olly, I see you got your post in this months mag.
What I know about setting up a bandsaw comes mainly from back issues of GW, I was told in one of these to always run the blade just clear of the tyre, the tyre is slightly convex and the teeth will run clear of the tyre that way. This means that the tyre will not blunt the teeth in contact with the it and not alter the set. If either of these happen the saw will cut better on the sharper side, as the damage will occur on the left side the saw cut will wander to the right.
Good luck with the saw, I look forward to hearing how you get on with it
Olly Parry-Jones22/02/2010 17:47:01
2776 forum posts
636 photos
Alan, you're probably right - yes, that would make more sense.
Ron, I also got my copy this morning but I haven't yet had a chance to read it.
Do you set all of your blades like this or just the very wide ones? I always thought of it as a bit of a 'myth' that rubber tyres dull blades but, I am willing to be told or shown otherwise.
Over the weekend, I gave the 25mm blade a try and it runs beautifully when set centrally on the tyre. I still imagine it might fall off if set closer to the damaged edge - I guess that's why the previous owner was having trouble and I'm not.

Yep, that blade just misses the damaged areas, when set like this.

I've also had a 16 amp socket wired in now as well so, I can finally start playing with it! It really is a beautiful saw and also has an electronically-braked motor, when you switch it off. Plenty of power and the blade seems to go around nearly twice as fast as my old SIP saw (not that it was slow, or anything)! Really looking forward to putting this to the test, now. In the mean time, I'll live with the tyre the way it is.
Toothy22/02/2010 19:21:47
458 forum posts
67 photos
Hi Olly
Alan T is correct. I would go for the polyurethane compound as it is tough and has give. It is in fact a type of artificial rubber.
Enjoy using your new baby.
Sparky22/02/2010 21:13:54
7631 forum posts
22 photos
Showing my ignorance now but.........
If nothing is getting in the way of the blade, would it really matter if the whole is fixed?
The band doesn't come into contact as to cut it and the blade rides high over it........what about just filing down any rough/sharp edges and leave as is?
Just a thought.
Ron Davis23/02/2010 17:41:04
1618 forum posts
201 photos
Hi Olly, on my Metabo, I have a 1/4" blade running with the teeth as I described, I have used it for some time now and it is just beginning t show a right hand bias.
One other poit, made at a woodturning demo, dont cut circles, for blanks, with a new blade or this will dull one side and inroduce a bias, bring the wood to an octagon with straight cuts

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