By continuing to use this site, you agree to our use of cookies. Find out more

Best finish for Ash

All Topics | Latest Posts

Search for:  in Thread Title in  
derek willis19/05/2008 08:45:00
avatar
2314 forum posts
1 articles

Ben,

How about all that discussion on Rustins Plastic Coating then?

Derek. 

derek willis19/05/2008 08:52:00
avatar
2314 forum posts
1 articles

Ben,

Just been out and tried some that was already mixed, one coat wiped on has given a very good finish, a little darkening of the surface as you get with all products but no detriment to the timber finish.

It was discussed with Mike and I a couple of weeks ago, and I recommended he ask Rustins about discoloration and they came back with a very favourable report in that no colouring will take place,

.

Derek. 

Mike Garnham19/05/2008 09:07:00
4114 forum posts
1 photos

Derek,

Rustins haven't really helped themselves very much with the name of this product. It isn't plastic......it is a two part lacquer. Woodworkers, I would assume, would avoid plastic-type finishes because we are working with a natural product.

"Rustins Two-part Lacquer" would have been a better name, I reckon.

A comparison with the water-based lacquer from Chestnut would be really interesting. I notice that the Chestnut product is also available in a spray-can.

Mike 

Olly Parry-Jones19/05/2008 10:25:00
avatar
2776 forum posts
636 photos

Ben, nice to hear of someone else using English Ash for a change.

I've not used anything other than Danish Oil before, but I'm about to try some of the Osmo Polyx Oil that has an advert in the back of most woodworking magazines. It's an oil and wax mixture that apparently only requires two coats. I imagine that the oil content will still lead to some darkening or yellowing of the ash but, once I've bought some and had a play with it, I'll let you know how it goes anyway. 

Woodworker19/05/2008 10:46:00
1745 forum posts
1 photos
74 articles
Mike R; bleaching sounds like a challenge. Do you know what product you would use to bleach Ash? Mike R / Baz; I'll get in touch with Andy to find out what that finish was he recommended ~ thanks. Derek / Mike G; I should probably give this plastic coating product a go. I do agree with Mike in that the word 'plastic' puts me off somewhat. I like to stick to natural finishes where possible, such as oils, waxes, shellac etc. Olly; do you find that Danish oil turns the Ash a yellow colour? Thanks all, much appreciated.
Mike Riley19/05/2008 11:03:00
337 forum posts
5 photos
5 articles
Danish Oil turns Ash pee yellow, I can promise you that. I can dig some photos out of my sons bed which is English Ash with a Danish oil finish. To my mind the finish is horrible and dirty looking. I'll see if I have some pics somewhere. Cheers Mike
Mike Garnham19/05/2008 11:41:00
4114 forum posts
1 photos

Mike,

the problem is that it doesn't go a horrible colour immediately. So, you make your furniture, oil it, and then sell it.......and it looks fine. It is only when you revisit it later for some reason that you discover that all is not well.

I think the problem is that Danish oil is part-varnish (ie it has solids dissolved in it), and I think that these solids yellow in contact with UV (ie daylight). Additionally, the finish doesn't protect the wood from UV light, and that yellows too.

Andy King19/05/2008 11:59:00
avatar
170 forum posts
8 photos
19 articles
Morning chaps, I recommended water based lacquer (sold by Chestnut and Behlen amongst others) as it doesn't have a yellow cast as a fluid, unlike oils or polys, so any applied keeps it a pretty pale finish. I made a pine cupboard and sprayed it with waterbased lacquer some years back for the mag and although it has darkened down as the light has acted upon it, it's not the horrible yellow you normally get, it's still retained a natural pine look. Ash is likely to darken much the same over the course of time, but as pointed out by Mike and others, it won't have that initial yellow cast of an oil or oil based finish. As i mentioned in the original advice (I think...) when you apply water based stuff, it looks milky with a slight blue tinge, but dries back perfectly clear, so on pale timbers, I find it tends to retain a natural look. Of course, ideally the best bet is to try it on a scrap piece or an area that won't be seen beforehand, but you don't need me to tell you that! cheers, Andy
derek willis19/05/2008 12:02:00
avatar
2314 forum posts
1 articles

Andy,

Funnily enough whilst you wre writing your post I was reading information which stated that the only way to keep the original colour of the timber, one should use water based acrylic laquer, just what you have just said.

Derek. 

Andy King19/05/2008 12:13:00
avatar
170 forum posts
8 photos
19 articles

Blimey Derek, that's a new experience for me, actually getting something right!!!

cheers,

Andy

Mike Garnham19/05/2008 12:33:00
4114 forum posts
1 photos

Displaying my ignorance here.......

.....what is the difference between a lacquer and a varnish?

I have used a clear water-based varnish a few times, and it does just as Andy said......starts milky, then dries perfectly clear. It just isn't as glossy as a PU varnish.

Mike 

derek willis19/05/2008 12:58:00
avatar
2314 forum posts
1 articles

Mike,

I am probably going to be proved wrong, but, as far as I can see, nothing!

Derek. 

derek willis19/05/2008 13:02:00
avatar
2314 forum posts
1 articles

Added to this, got 4 1 litre cans of satin acrylic in the workshop, an ironmongers was closing down in Witney, I went in on their last day and bought all they had of Sadolinn Acrylic Satin, for £2:00 a can, not £15:00, god knows when I'll ever use it up, but at £2:00 what else could I do?

Derek. 

Woodworker19/05/2008 13:07:00
1745 forum posts
1 photos
74 articles
A trip to the local Axminster is required to source a water based finish I think. Thanks for the info Andy and Derek. Mike G; my understanding is that, technically, lacquers and varnishes are very similar, they both involve dissolving a resin in a liquid for applying on wood to form a hard clear surface. Traditionaly lacquer would include shellac so it's a more specialized term. Anything not including shellac would be termed a varnish. However, in workshops I've spent time in varnishes apply to products that are brushed on whereas lacquers refer to two-part and spray on products.
derek willis19/05/2008 13:14:00
avatar
2314 forum posts
1 articles

There you are I knew we'd find out!!!!!

D. 

All Topics | Latest Posts

Please login to post a reply.

Magazine Locator

Want the latest issue of The Woodworker incorporating Good Woodworking? Use our magazine locator links to find your nearest stockist!

Find The Woodworker inc Good Woodworking 

Latest Forum Posts
Support Our Partners
Triton
Wood Workers Workshop
Felder UK April 2016
Transwave 2017
Peter Sefton IMPROVE FAST LONG
Turners Tool Box
Tormek
D B Keighley
D&M Tools
Tool Post
Chippendale
Subscription Offers

Subscribe to<br />    The Woodworker Magazine and receive a FREE gift

Contact Us

We're always happy to hear from you, so feel free to get in touch!

Click here to find who to contact