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Best bandsaw blades

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derek willis10/05/2008 10:28:00
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2314 forum posts
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Oliver, Thinking back, My manufacturer, Electra Beckam for my 315 bandsaw, states the largest  blade to use be 1/2" but on seeing it demonstrated at ally pally, some time after I bought mine, I noticed that the demonstrator was using 5/8" blades and queried it, quote "Ialways use 5/8" blades on these"  unquote. So I did the same.

Derek. 

Olly Parry-Jones10/05/2008 20:57:00
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2776 forum posts
636 photos

Glad to hear it, Derek.

I've been playing with the thinner-kerfed .020" gauge blade today and it runs like a dream on my bandsaw; I really cannot believe it! The standard-thickness blades I've bought before (also from Dragon) seemed to "wobble" as the saw was running and create  an excessive amount of vibration on my 12" SIP saw.

Ian also sent me a new .025" blade which seemed to tension up fine on my machine as well. There was a fair bit of vibration running through my saw, although the quality of cut was still very good. The blade was running true, as far as I could tell.

Just waiting to hear back from Ian now as to whether they'll be stocking these blades.

I prefer the finish from a 4tpi hook-tooth blade. I know it doesn't really matter when you're going to run something over a planer anyway, but I find 3tpi skip to be a little rough for anything less than 3"...? It also feels a lot nicer when you're cutting with a pitch that's just right - it's all about enjoying what you do!

cranny26/06/2008 18:19:00
4 forum posts

Hi Guys, Recently discovered this site and very impressed. Recently upgraded my band saw from the eb 315g to jet 18. Now find the blades have a wobble ,front to back, of about 1 to 2 mm. Checked both wheels for true running  and seem ok. Increased and decreased tension still no change . Blades came from Axminster and range from 1/2" to1 " but all do the same.Dont think its my setup? but any advise would be appreciated.

Cheers Ivan. 

Olly Parry-Jones26/06/2008 18:33:00
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2776 forum posts
636 photos

Hi Ivan and welcome to the forums!

Not sure what the cause of your problem may be but have you had a look at the weld? Sometimes they're not as tidy as they can be. It may help to gently offer up an old oilstone to the back of the blade while the saw is running... You can also use this to round-over the 'corners' of the blade on the back edge, which will help prevent burn marks when cutting curves.

If you want to attempt working on the sides of the blade while it's running then, be very careful, or else you'll loose catch the teeth and loose the set in mere seconds!

Dave Atkinson26/06/2008 18:39:00
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672 forum posts
115 photos

Hi

I have a SIP 14" bandsaw and it cuts very well.  I buy my blades from Craft Supplies and they seem to work fine.  I use a 1/2" blade most of the time at 6TPI.

Mike you mentioned it taking hours to set up and still couldn't cut straight.  If you knock the set off the blade it won't ever cut straight and it is very easy to do that. 

When I set mine up I first move all the blade guides out of the way set up the tension and then set the tracking.  Once this is done I set the rear guide bush to make sure the side bushes don't foul the teeth when you push the blade back - if they do it'll take off the pitch and then it won't cut straight.  Then set the guide bushes to be just touching less a gnat's thingy! 

Finally, test the saw to see how much drift it has and adjust the rip fence accordingly, same for the mitre fence.

Hope this helps

Dave

Dave Atkinson26/06/2008 18:41:00
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672 forum posts
115 photos

I guess you know all that by now Mike - didn't check the dates on the posts!!

Dave

warren gruhl27/06/2008 02:30:00
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536 forum posts
59 photos
Mike i think Dave Atkinson gave you the best advice. I got a little 9" ryobi and took about an hour too set up useing a 1/4" blade i can rip 3 in stock as straight as a ruler
Mike Garnham27/06/2008 07:13:00
4114 forum posts
1 photos

Warren et al,

I've had the bandsaw for months now, and have got everything sorted. Set up is easy with a sharp blade! Lets drop this one, as it is a really old thread.

Mike 

Mike Garnham16/02/2008 20:25:00
4114 forum posts
1 photos

I have just bought a new (well, second hand) bandsaw, and the blades that came with it are just awful. 

As this is my first bandsaw, I have no idea where to go for the best blades. Can anyone help? 

Thanks

Mike 

Rob Johnson16/02/2008 21:02:00
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378 forum posts
19 photos

As Axminster Power Tools have a place near me in Kent I have been using their bandsaw blades which last well and I have not had any problems with them. Tensioning the blades correctly has a great impact on the ease and accuracy of use but as few machines have a tensioning guage this can be a bit of a black art! ( not saying you are having problems due to set up)

Whilst on the subject of bandsaw blades.... It is worth remembering to use the widest blade you have for straight cuts and the narrower ones for curved work. As a rule of thumb here are some blade widths and smallest radius of curved cut attainable:-

   Blade          radius

     3mm           8mm

    6mm           25mm

    12mm         60mm

    16mm         100mm

   20mm          135mm

Hope this info is of use to you all.  Regards Rob

Mike Garnham17/02/2008 08:34:00
4114 forum posts
1 photos

Thanks Rob.

As it happens, my machine is an Axminster, and as it looks like I will have to order a new bearing for the upper wheel, I can get some blades at the same time. However, I do seem to recall reading somewhere that there are some blades that last 5 times as long as the normal ones......... 

I hadn't appreciated what a fiddle it would be to set this machine up! Tensioning is just one problem, but the most annoying is trying to get the correct angle for the rip fence, and adjusting the tension seems to mean altering the setting of the rip fence. Four hours of cleaning and adjusting and I can't cut a straight line!!!

By the way, is blade width measured across the whole width of the band (inc. teeth), or is it just to the base of the teeth? How many TPI do you use? I have one blade with about 18 tiny TPI, which I am guessing is a metal cutting blade, and another with 4 TPI, which seems to wander all over the place in the wood. Neither have any "set" to them. 

Thanks again for your help

Mike

PS Have just downloaded the "Wood Whisperer" video recommended by Bigpricey in Baz's thread.........that will probably answer all of the above!!

Rob Johnson18/02/2008 04:10:00
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378 forum posts
19 photos

Went and had a look at the Wood whisperer link and thought it very informative and will have answered most of your questions. Blade width is including teeth. Check out the Axminster catalogue they have some more information on the blades page, regarding tooth styles and uses. I have heard of people using stainless steel meat, bone and fish blades for cutting veneers but never had the need to. Keep a steady feed speed and don't try to rush and you will get good results. Stellite tipped blades last longer cost far more and a normally found on big resaw bandsaws that often have power feed rollers.

Regards Rob

Mike Garnham18/02/2008 08:16:00
4114 forum posts
1 photos
Thanks Rob
Olly Parry-Jones20/02/2008 19:13:00
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2776 forum posts
636 photos

I'll happily reccomend Dragon Saws to anyone. Excellent quality and truly outstanding service and assistance. They'll even be able to advise you on the specific blades to suit your requirements and offer blades which may not be available in the Axminster catalogue - such as M42 blades, which can cut through metal no problem! (Great when you hit odd bullet, as some people have found out! )

 Dragon Saws Ltd.

Unit 13, Duffryn Business Park, Ystrad Mynach, Caerphilly, CF82 7RJ

Tel: 01443 819910 Fax: 01443 819911 email: /forum/smilies/confused_smiley.gif[/img]ales@dragonsaws.co.uk]sales@dragonsaws.co.uk 

 

Mike Garnham21/02/2008 08:26:00
4114 forum posts
1 photos

Many thanks, OPJ 

I've just bought some blades from Axminster, but I will put a note by my machine and give Dragon a try for my next blades.

Mike 

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