is it possible to do a compound mitre?
|John Baddeley||17/06/2018 10:13:45|
|51 forum posts|
If you have the patience to follow me, I'd be very grateful!
I am replacing rotten softwood mopstick outside done with poor joins (with 45mm diam oak with a 'flat' on the bottom for fixing the brackets) .
The problem is that the rail is intended to change from sloping up to horizontal at the same join that it turns through 90 degrees (horizontal angle). And then it does another 90 degree turn at the same time going from horizontal to sloping up. i.e. the steps come up a flight, you turn right and there is a short horizontal run then you turn right again as you start up more steps.
I know I could avoid the issue by not connecting the handrail runs, but I'm not keen on that.
I can (i suppose) arrange to do the 90 turn before the slope down, i.e. do two separate mitres, Or I could make a simple 90 turn and slope down at the same point, which means the flat is no longer on the bottom, make a simple cut and join on the horizontal run, having twisted the rail for the next slope and plane away at the bottom until the 30 degree change in the flat is removed.
If I want a continuous run, and want to maintain teh flat at the bottom of the rail can I do it with a compound mitre?
I've gathered from other [US] forums that with standard shaped (not mopstick) handrail, it is impossible to make mitres that work properly where it changes direction and slope at the same time. ( http://forums.jlconline.com/forums/forum/jlc-online-expert-forums/finish-carpentry/19652-wall-mounted-handrail-w-45%C3%82%C2%B0-turn & http://forums.jlconline.com/forums/filedata/fetch?id=988332 )
The slope is 30 degrees, and I have tried doing a compound mitre cut, adding a 15 degree 'undercut' to the 45 mitre on each face, but that results in the mitre no longer being 90 degrees. At which point I decided I am lacking the required geometry skills!
is it possible, or do i need to do one of the workarounds detailed above?
|John Baddeley||17/06/2018 14:32:32|
|51 forum posts|
I'll reword most of the 5th paragraph:-
Or I could make a simple 90 mitre and rotate the horizontal length to allow the sloping length to slope down, which means the flat is no longer on the bottom of the horizontal bit, then make a simple cut - twist the rail the other way - and remake the join on the horizontal run; and then plane away at the bottom until the 60 degree change in the flat is removed.
Please login to post a reply.
Want the latest issue of Good Woodworking or The Woodworker? Use our magazine locator links to find your nearest stockist!
Love Woodworking? Sign up to our emails for the latest news and special offers!
We're always happy to hear from you, so feel free to get in touch!