By continuing to use this site, you agree to our use of cookies. Find out more

Machining timber question[s]

Prepping oak boards

All Topics | Latest Posts

Search for:  in Thread Title in  
John Baddeley19/05/2018 23:08:46
54 forum posts
2 photos

I'm starting on preparing some oak, with a little previous experience, to build cupboards .

I have a basato 3 bandsaw and a kity 439 planer / thicknesser but no table saw.

I've got oak about 100mm wide about 36mm thick and I'm aiming to use it at 20 mm of thickness [maybe more] and about the same width [or cut down for smaller components].

I've read up on dimensioning and know to plane the concave side first, and I'm able to get nicely thicknessed boards from that. What I'm not clear about is how you get the boards to a consistent width as I don't think you can put them through the thicknesser vertically.

Do I just use the bandsaw to get them consistently parallel sided and then plane each edge to the right thickness?

I have some of those big spring loaded clips/clamps and I wondered if you could clamp three or four boards together and put them through the thicknesser vertically in that way but I've never heard of anybody doing it.

Also, when thicknessing, I find lots of little chips stay in the planer / thicknesser and then get pressed onto my nice planed surface [grrr]. I'm extracting from the Kity with no more than a metre of 4" flexy hose into a Perform floor-standing extractor [and i've used a similar Electa-Beckum one before], so is this a common problem? Am I doing something wrong?

Thanks, John

Derek Lane19/05/2018 23:53:32
3219 forum posts
1004 photos

When preparing wood for a project I surface plane a wide flat first and then edge plane one edge square to the first. I then resaw to just over the correct thickness.

Before thicknessing the board I will take the unplaned wood and surface plane that again so that I have two edges before re sawing this piece I continue doing that until I have used up the board I started with.

I will now put these planks through the thicknesser to the required thickness.

My final job will be to cut the width required plus a little so I have a parallel to the first this can then be planed so I end up with wood that now is the correct thickness and width which is planed all round

John Baddeley20/05/2018 21:52:41
54 forum posts
2 photos

Thanks Derek, just so l can be sure, can you explain

<I will take the unplaned wood and surface plane that again so that I have two edges >

And do you have any thoughts on the chips?

Many thanks,


Derek Lane21/05/2018 10:29:22
3219 forum posts
1004 photos

If for example you want two boards from one the first planing action I mentioned will give the first board a flat and edge but the second after re-sawing will not have a clean planed surface so will require planing also. This will give me two boards with a flat and an edge planed ready for the thicknesser.

Sorry I am not very good at putting things into print. Hope this explains it a bit better

John Baddeley21/05/2018 11:48:17
54 forum posts
2 photos

Ah yes, I was thinking about ripping (not resawing which is what you wrote - I'm sorry) down the small dimension, and you were describing resawing (I think) down the large dimension. My mistake.

It all makes sense now

And from what you say, you have to rip the board to just over the required width, making sure the rip cut is parallel with your established planed edge, and trust the planer (or, in my case, the inexperienced operator!) to take off an even amount to get your edges parallel.

Thanks for your reply.

Does anyone else with a Kity 439 get chips embedded in the planed surface?

Derek Lane21/05/2018 13:13:24
3219 forum posts
1004 photos

Once the piece has two paralelsurfaces and one edge then cut to a fraction over the width and finish either on a surface planer or hand planer to complete the prparation of the board.

Can't help with the chip problem as i have different machines and also have extraction to remove chips directly from them. Saves a lot of cleaning up afterwards

Mike Jordan22/05/2018 18:08:33
166 forum posts
17 photos

The problem of chippings marking the planed surface is common when using softer materials like pine but not in my experience a problem with oak. The resin in pine makes the chipping stick to the feed rollers and other areas, making the problem worse. A clean out feed roller and good extraction will help.

If the oak is fresh from the suppliers, the drying process may have left tension in the material, removing to much material from one face can cause the stock to bend in its length. The secret is to remove material from each face and monitor the shape after each pass through the planer.

All Topics | Latest Posts

Please login to post a reply.

Magazine Locator

Want the latest issue of The Woodworker & Good Woodworking? Use our magazine locator links to find your nearest stockist!

Find The Woodworker & Good Woodworking 

Support Our Partners
Robert Sorby
Craft Supplies
Transwave 2017
Felder UK April 2016
Wood Workers Workshop
Marriott & Co
D&M Tools
Turners Tool Box
D B Keighley
Subscription Offers

Subscribe to<br />    The Woodworker Magazine and receive a FREE gift

Contact Us

We're always happy to hear from you, so feel free to get in touch!

Click here to find who to contact