Here is a list of all the postings John Baddeley has made in our forums. Click on a thread name to jump to the thread.
|Thread: How to use the mortising attachment on a Kity Planer?|
I have owned a 439 for a while now, and always wondered about the attachment for mortising. I can't find any info on using one.
(Obviously, it came with no instructions; if any are available, please point me to them.)
|Thread: Problems sawing with the bandsaw table tilted|
Thanks for all those points. I'll check as soon as I can and let you know!
My Basato 3 b/s is literally coming to a halt when rip sawing a 100 x 100 mm piece of pine, with the table at 50 degrees.
The blade is (I think) 3 or 4 tpi.
Is there a problem with using a bs at such an angle?
I realise I should try it waith the table flat, but I didn;t reallly want to loose the angle setting.
Any experience of this situation, anyone?
|Thread: Concealed hinges|
THanks all. I've been around the house doing some measurements! (All lay-on doors.)
They are not all the same, but htere appears to be some common ground.
Where i used some BLUM ones before, the carcase plate screws are 37 mm from the front., and different hinges on 2 different commercial cabinets are the same.
the BLUM door screws are 35 from the edge, but the commercial ones are both 28 mm. I notice I set them about 8-10mm in from the door edge - rather more thatn normal - which explains that difference. Al: are yoiu referring to the 35mm dia hole?
In hte past what i've done is drill the 35mm hole first, and use the hinge as a template for the screw hole positions.,
There's a good posted message on the ScrewTalk forium
which includes htis:
Generally the screws that go into the carcase are set 37mm back from the edge and are 32mm apart. I usually set the hinges in 100mm from the top & bottom of the carcase to the hinge center line.
If you then allow a 2mm gap the hinges are set 98mm from the top & bottom of the door or 100mm if they are the same size as the carcase.
The tricky part is how far from the edge of the door to the center of the 35mm hole, if your carcase is 15mm and you are using zero height mounting plates then the ctr of the hole wants to be 19-20mm if using 18mm carcase or 3mm mounting plates to compensate fot the thinner carcase then 22-23mm should work.
The above applies to lay-on doors. Inset, overlap and face frame applications are a bit different.
My conclusion is that for lay-on doors, most cabinet hinges more or less follow a standard. Phew!
Thanks all, John
(Now to get on with it!)
i'm thinking of hinges like those commoinlyu used on kitchen cabinets.
Are the mounting positions standard (for 35mm hole ones) . I'm thinking of buying from screwfix but hthey cannot supply any fixing hole position fixing information.
|Thread: Advice on (Kity 439) Planer/thicknesser|
I have a coupleof questions to ask:-
1 I'm getting a lot of chips rolled on to hte surface of the timber (oak) when thicknessing. hte extractor is a Elecktra 'Beckum SPA 1000 - label says 1000 Cu m per h - which appears to be working fine , attached to 3-4 metres of 100 flexi hose. Anyone got ideas on why?
2 when I set the fence I can set it accurately, but when I tighten up the locking lever the fence moves off it's correct setting. Any tricks to avoid this?
3 does anyone know where or how you lock off the setting on the thickness adjustment?
|Thread: Parkside (=Einhell) Mitre saw|
I think this one is the same:-
[watch the wrap in the URL! - the above two lines should be altogether]
Note I don't think it is on a rack and pinion [!] - it just feels like it.
I'll take a look at the bolts soon, I hope.
Edited By John Baddeley on 04/11/2009 14:51:37
|LIDL Parkside sliding mitre saw|
Anyone bought one of these (they were in the shop around the beginning of
I did, and have just now set it up. When I pull/push the sliding bit it
feels rough as if it running on a rack and pinion. (It doesn't catch or
grate, it just isn't as smooth as I expected.)
This can't be right, surely?
(yes, yes, I know they're cheap, but many Parkside items are surprisingly OK).
|Thread: Solid Oak fire surround?|
Yes, I understood what you wrote, I had simply forgotten about the option of moulding or chamfering to 'hide' the joint.
Thanks for the notes about the constsruction.
I am serioiusly considering tackling this myself, possibly using oak composite flooring that has 6mm of solid oak on the face.
Andy: have you had any thoughts?
Hi Mike, and thanks for your response.
>The beaded joint is a normal joinery method of "breaking the joint" - yes of course, my mind was not in gear...
> but management was not amused. )
I can't quite make out from the pics, but I assume there is also a beaded joint on the inside face of your pillars, yes?
Yours is a lovely job, I'm sure you're pleased with it.
Did you make any allowance for shrinkage after it was made? how did you join the different pieces and make sure it stayed tight and square?
John (who would love to be making this myself, but feels a little too inexperienced. - Oh, and 'the management' wants it soon! [But then builders can take a while...] )
Thanks for your thoughts - the question is what to do, or how to do it!
Points for consideration:-
a) my wife does not like the idea of pieces joined, as she thinks it will obviously not be a solid piece. I think on the other hand that if the joins are tight, and the grain similar we would not be bothered even if you could see the join on close inspection.
b) theere is a firm in this area of west Wales called Broadleaf who do solid oak flooring, and offer to kiln dry (to extra-dry) boards to fgo over under-floor heating. Perhaps i could ask them to dry some stock very dry for this job. (?)
c) I'm going to upload as 'photos' two drawings of my ideas so far based on using mdf as a backing board, and fixings designed to keep visible joints tight ...
Edited By John Baddeley on 27/10/2009 07:44:29
Edited By John Baddeley on 27/10/2009 07:47:17
Drawings in my photo album - I hope!
|I see these are available (web searches) and we are about to ask a builder |
to do one for us around a gas fire. The builder is (I believe) competent,
and familiar with using solid timber.
However I am rather twitchy about putting solid timber (say 150mm thick)
near a source of considerable heat - from the point of view of shrinkage,
warping etc. There is at least 200 mm of slate between the fire and the
Any experience , or advice, please?
|Thread: Rexon Mitre saw?|
I'd just decidedto go for the REXON when I noticed that it comes with no support bars, or end stop, and that the base has no holes to accommodate ones you might buy or make yourself!! I would have thought these weere too useful to do without - tho' maybe others would disagree...
In the end, I've been getting on with the current job by hand, and managing ok, so I may put the purchase on hold.
Thanks for your thoughts, everyone, and I'm still interested in where the right price/performance point is.
Richard, thanks for that. I'd guess you were unlucky with your Makita, but what do I know?
Very Interesting re Rexon: I can live with the 62mm depth limit, and the noise as I wouldn't be using it all day.
Yes, with £500 I probably would too!
Thanks Dave, Have you used other ones - to compare?
|Screwfix are selling the |
Rexon SM2150AE 216mm Sliding Compound Mitre Saw
for around £118 (down from 170).
I note that it will cut 'only' 62mm deep, but can anyone advise of any disadvantages? Where would it's quality (ie accuracy) be? Not as good as DeWalt or Makita I suppose, but how about JET, Erbauer, , or metabo/electra-beckum?
JET JSMS-10L 90x305 £150
metabo/electra-beckum KGS255 Plus 60x255 £189
Ryobi EMS2026SCC 90X305 £199
Any experience, anyone?
|Thread: Bandsaw sparks!|
Thanks, Ron, that's very kind of you.
Shall we take this to email?
For your information and help.
Simply Bearings will be hearing from me no doubt!
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