Here is a list of all the postings John Baddeley has made in our forums. Click on a thread name to jump to the thread.
|Thread: What is it ?|
I have no idea of its intended use, but wonder if it would be useful when hand sharpening saws (not that I've done that!) You could clamp the blade between the blocks, and the channel might hold a guide, possibly.
|Thread: Removing rust from hand tools|
my first thought re. black paste would be 'grate black' [or blacking]
googling 'grate blacking' produces several hits.
As an aside, I can't help thinking it's not the draught, but damp and cold leading to condensation. (Sorry, I'm very pedantic!)
Movement of air is a good thing, surely, just make sure your workspace doesn't get warm or damp, and then cold.
If the space is really difficult to keep sufficiently dry, maybe it's worth having a cupboard for your hand tools [not practical for big machines] and put a light bulb in the bottom and leave it on to maintain a little warmth. (If you like this idea, please check thoroughly that nothing gets too warm! I won't be held responsible for a fire!!)
And if I'm talking through my hat, tell me!
|Thread: mitres on mopstick handrail|
I'll reword most of the 5th paragraph:-
Or I could make a simple 90 mitre and rotate the horizontal length to allow the sloping length to slope down, which means the flat is no longer on the bottom of the horizontal bit, then make a simple cut - twist the rail the other way - and remake the join on the horizontal run; and then plane away at the bottom until the 60 degree change in the flat is removed.
|Thread: What timber is this?|
Always a tricky question!
While I don't want to disagree, I'm not seeing any medullary rays which would 'prove' it to be oak.
The cut end, showing the rings, is the same as the finished pieces, yes?
Might it be sweet chestnut? Are you in uk, europe, or elsewhere? (Or was it bought from a suppl9ier who may have imported it...?)
Do you need to know because [eg] you want to use steel screws, but are worried about the staining caused by oak.?
Some wider shots would help, and were the photos taken with daylight or artificial as that will affect the apparent colour. (I'm a big help, aren't I! )
|Thread: mitres on mopstick handrail|
If you have the patience to follow me, I'd be very grateful!
I am replacing rotten softwood mopstick outside done with poor joins (with 45mm diam oak with a 'flat' on the bottom for fixing the brackets) .
The problem is that the rail is intended to change from sloping up to horizontal at the same join that it turns through 90 degrees (horizontal angle). And then it does another 90 degree turn at the same time going from horizontal to sloping up. i.e. the steps come up a flight, you turn right and there is a short horizontal run then you turn right again as you start up more steps.
I know I could avoid the issue by not connecting the handrail runs, but I'm not keen on that.
I can (i suppose) arrange to do the 90 turn before the slope down, i.e. do two separate mitres, Or I could make a simple 90 turn and slope down at the same point, which means the flat is no longer on the bottom, make a simple cut and join on the horizontal run, having twisted the rail for the next slope and plane away at the bottom until the 30 degree change in the flat is removed.
If I want a continuous run, and want to maintain teh flat at the bottom of the rail can I do it with a compound mitre?
I've gathered from other [US] forums that with standard shaped (not mopstick) handrail, it is impossible to make mitres that work properly where it changes direction and slope at the same time. ( http://forums.jlconline.com/forums/forum/jlc-online-expert-forums/finish-carpentry/19652-wall-mounted-handrail-w-45%C3%82%C2%B0-turn & http://forums.jlconline.com/forums/filedata/fetch?id=988332 )
The slope is 30 degrees, and I have tried doing a compound mitre cut, adding a 15 degree 'undercut' to the 45 mitre on each face, but that results in the mitre no longer being 90 degrees. At which point I decided I am lacking the required geometry skills!
is it possible, or do i need to do one of the workarounds detailed above?
|Thread: Paid woodwork projects to fill spare time - liable to income tax?|
First I would set up a system that produces an invoice, which you can tie in with your bank statements; rememver you are legally obliged to keep records [relating to incoome and taxation] for 6 years back.
Ideally the invoices would be sequentially numbered, but assuming you won't /ever/ be issuing two on teh same day, the date will probably do. (Sequentially numbered means you know if you have overlooked one, say from a late payer.) software can do this for you, or have a printed record book froma stationers with nlumbered pages.
Don't forget to keep all invoices you get for tools and materials you use, and make a note **at the time ['coz you'll forget!]** of what they were used for.
I file my own tax self- assessment, and use 'TaxCalc' software (used to be part of Which? / consumer's association) . There's plenty of help in the software.
Or you can save yourself hassle and pay an accountant, but you will still need a clear paper trail for the money. In which case I would go straight away to see them and get them to list all teh info they will want from you, adn their advice on going about this.
sorry about all the typos.
And good luck finding profit- making work. I think many here would say that is the Holy Grail!
I agree with Dave, you're liable. Sorry!
|Thread: Machining timber question[s]|
Ah yes, I was thinking about ripping (not resawing which is what you wrote - I'm sorry) down the small dimension, and you were describing resawing (I think) down the large dimension. My mistake.
It all makes sense now
And from what you say, you have to rip the board to just over the required width, making sure the rip cut is parallel with your established planed edge, and trust the planer (or, in my case, the inexperienced operator!) to take off an even amount to get your edges parallel.
Thanks for your reply.
Does anyone else with a Kity 439 get chips embedded in the planed surface?
Thanks Derek, just so l can be sure, can you explain
<I will take the unplaned wood and surface plane that again so that I have two edges >
And do you have any thoughts on the chips?
|Thread: Adjusting planer blades|
The blades on my Kity 439 planer are held in place with 4 nuts and there's a spring which forces the blades out of their housing, when the nuts are slackened.
The manual says it is important that the blades cause a flat piece of wood [positioned over the blades] to move 2 to 3mm when the blades are rotated.
When I tried to adjust the blades to that specification I put a piece of wood at each end of the blade and held them down against the spring, and then tightened up the nuts.
I had to do this very many times as I found the blades are either too low or too high when I was apparently doing exactly the same thing to set the height. It seems to be in the lap of the gods where the blade is (even though you are apparently holding it in the same position) when you tighten up the nut.
Does anybody know a better way of making that adjustment.?
(And I really wish they had found a way to make it a screw adjustment!!)
|Thread: Machining timber question[s]|
I'm starting on preparing some oak, with a little previous experience, to build cupboards .
I have a basato 3 bandsaw and a kity 439 planer / thicknesser but no table saw.
I've got oak about 100mm wide about 36mm thick and I'm aiming to use it at 20 mm of thickness [maybe more] and about the same width [or cut down for smaller components].
I've read up on dimensioning and know to plane the concave side first, and I'm able to get nicely thicknessed boards from that. What I'm not clear about is how you get the boards to a consistent width as I don't think you can put them through the thicknesser vertically.
Do I just use the bandsaw to get them consistently parallel sided and then plane each edge to the right thickness?
I have some of those big spring loaded clips/clamps and I wondered if you could clamp three or four boards together and put them through the thicknesser vertically in that way but I've never heard of anybody doing it.
Also, when thicknessing, I find lots of little chips stay in the planer / thicknesser and then get pressed onto my nice planed surface [grrr]. I'm extracting from the Kity with no more than a metre of 4" flexy hose into a Perform floor-standing extractor [and i've used a similar Electa-Beckum one before], so is this a common problem? Am I doing something wrong?
|Thread: basato 3 upper wheel tyre|
Delboy, thanks for the tip. (Incidentally, I hadn't been on the forum since August, but logged on this morning to enter the Trend competition, and there was your message you left an hour ago. Quite a coincidence!) Thanks.
well a bit late, i can tell you it is a *******-* tight fit!
NMA warn you to warm the new tyre in hot water; -- well you want it as hot as you can get it. Even then it requires clamping the wheel in a vice and levering the tyre on with a real effort.
all seems ok except i'm getting some vibration. I've changed teh blade and it still shimmers,but less. both blades are same spec , and from Hamilton Beverstock in S Wales.
Looking very closely at the tyre as I spin it (by hand of course!!) it looks a bit irregular at teh edge, and i wonder if it did not settle into teh wheel evenly ....
|Thread: Straighten a plank?|
Thanks for that Derek, the plank is currently undergoing correction!
I'm helping my daughter make a table top.
It is made of three pine planks that were pew seats in one or more church/chapels.
After light sanding to remove the original varnish, they have exactly the look she wants, with a few marks, scratches, dents, and even a bit of graffitti!
She does not want to do any more sanding, and no planing as that will take the surface down to fresh wood (which is very nice but not what she wants).
The problem is that although two of the planks are pretty well flat, one is not, with an upward curve along one third of its length. It is 35mm thick, 250mm wide, and about 2.3m long [1 3/8" x 10" x 7' 6"]
The error is about 5mm at one end.
If I clamp one end to the workbench, I can push the other end down flat.
If I use biscuits to lock the top surfaces flat, do you think the other two boards will pull the one plank in line [flat], or what will happen?
There will be two cross pieces about 1/3 of the length in from each end to tie the boards together. The top will stand on separate trestle legs.
Any experience or comments welcome!
|Thread: Braced plank door|
I hope this isn't too late, but the photo in the magazine showed the braces running in what i believe was the wrong way. The bottom of the brace (surely?!) needs to be at the hinge side of the door, as - indeed - Wilf.T says above. But not as in the photo in the mag.
|Thread: basato 3 upper wheel tyre|
Thanks for that.
As it happens I've had another conversation with the technical manager at NMA and as the tyre is supposed to be a very tight fit, it must have stretched or aged as it is now easy to slip on and off. (The machine is 13 years old.)
Rather than bond the tyre to the wheel [and have a devil of a job getting it off later] I've decided to buy a replacement tyre, and hope that does the trick.
I'll try to remember to post the result of the swap.
My bandsaw is throwing the tyre out of the wheel, causing the saw blade to come off. Any experience of this or advice?
Edited By John Baddeley on 14/06/2017 09:05:08
|Thread: How to use the mortising attachment on a Kity Planer?|
Thanks Mailee, you're right - two levers move the table (to plunge and move sideways).
Mine came with a chuck (just like on a drill). Presumably an end-cutting spiral cutter would suit.
Does anyone else have any info/experience, please?
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