Member postings for Wilf.T

From my limited experience, I'd go for the dearer machine. It has more (input) power so will cut thicker material much more easily.

My experience is that I have a bandsaw, not from Axminster, nominally 4inch (110mm) depth of cut and a 300w (input) motor; even with 4tpi skip toothed blade it struggles to cut anything over 2inch thick. If your not having difficulties with cutting material you will have more accuracy and control on what you are cutting.

Contact Tuffsaws with saw details. I'm sure Ian can help you out.

My only relationship with the company is as a happy customer.

www.tuffsaws.co.uk

Edited By Wilf.T on 17/04/2020 20:31:07 to resolve formatting issue.

Edited By Wilf.T on 17/04/2020 20:32:32

From the way your comments are phrased I guess you have spoken with a bank and the 'business' advisor; you don't need to have a business to trade – you can be 'Self Employed' and in your case, I'd say, far more beneficial. Go to a 'Craft Fair' or find a trader at a Car Boot in your locality and ask who their accountant is, you need advice from an accountant who is used to self employed. Most will give you a hours advice for free on the expectation they will get your business when you start trading.

Now you are thinking about selling your product do keep accurate records of expenditure (and income) even if you do not charge for your time. HMRC do follow Ebay and similar to find traders who may not be declaring income – records are all important.

Yes, if you are making a profit (any money's over and above the cost of materials and expences) then you have to pay income tax once you are above the tax-free threshold including any salery from your normal emplyment.

Do you presently do a tax return? If so you can add any income to that but you need to have proof of income, expenses and costs.

I strongly suggest you get some public liability insurance as part of your trading operation.

Edited By Wilf.T on 21/12/2019 12:31:29

Edited By Wilf.T on 21/12/2019 12:38:28

Welcome Aodham,

Hopefully the following will be practical advice rather than lots of money intially (you’ll never stop buying tools), these are to learn on, ‘cause you will make mistakes along the way and sometimes spoiling something cheap to replace is better than ruining an expensive tool.

So your list, commented >>WT<< :-

Tennon Saw >>WT<< I’d suggest any of the ‘Harden toothed’ ones from Spear & Jackson (S&J), Irwin or Draper.

Hand saw >>WT<< ‘2nd Fix’ S&J Predator initially

4 Various sized chisels >>WT<< An ‘own brand’ (Magnusson) set of 3 from Screwfix. Rather than the highest quality as a beginer you need to know how to sharpen tools, these are easier to maintain a good edge on than more expensive tools.

>>WT<< You need a ‘Honing’ guide and stone (200 & 400/600 grit) or diamond plate.

Mallet >>WT<< Don’t bother, make your own – notes on this site.

Marking gauge >>WT<< Axminster 2153 Marking and Mortice Gauge

Sandpaper of 3 different grits >>WT<< just a roll of 80 or 120 Grit – as used it will get softer (finer) grit.

Tape, >>WT<< 5mtr/with Imp. scale;

ruler, >>WT<< 600 or 1mtr Metal rule;

sliding bevel, >>WT<< The Stanley one from Screwfix is as good as any

and try square >>WT<< A 12inch Combination Square and a ‘Speed’ (rafter) Square (Empire tools from Homebase)

Coping saw >>WT<< Bahco or Stanley. Buy spare blades.

Already have an ikea screwdriver with different head types. Will i need more? >>WT<< YES - Cabinet pattern 6x100mm & Pozi No2 X100mm to start with. Don't use slotted screwdrivers as levers. You will buy more as you progress.

A plane >>WT<< You will find a ‘No4’ (Smoothing) plane is more useful (general purpose) than a No5 (Jack) plane. In a hurry – then buy a ‘Faithful’ one (or a kit including a ‘Block Plane' ) when on offer.

Clamps (G shape) >>WT<< Record tools but Irwin ‘Quick-Grips’ are probably as useful.

I'll need a workbench but could I make my own and if so, where to get a vice for it? >>WT<< look at the web. Or a ‘WorkMate’; Then make a saw horse the same height, Use a piece of Kitchen worktop fixed to the ‘fixed’ side of the workmate jaws. You will do most things except chop out mortises on that.

Will need a drill of some description for general purpose. Recoomendations? >>WT<< If they are still available the Aldi ‘brushless’ tools (Ferrex) are excellent value. Otherwise the ‘Erbauer’ range for value.

For ‘quality’ tools I’d be looking second hand at Car Boots or Sunday markets. In recent weeks at the Felixstowe market there has been a Stanley No4 plane for £10, Marples (pre 2000) ‘lollipop’ Chisels for £5 each. Beech mallets for £3 to £5.

A set (index) of twist drills (Aldi's or Lidl's).  A set of 'Auger' drills 12/18/25mm initially then 10/16/22/30mm as additions when needed.

Do learn how to sharpen edge tools properly.

Edited By Wilf.T on 16/07/2019 10:47:42

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Edited By Wilf.T on 02/04/2019 11:07:01

When I started out as an apprentice sharpening of pencils was done on the workshop disk sander. Having much reduced my 'toyshop' I'm now down to 'multi' purposing my tools. Images of the frame to use my portable belt sander as a fixed one.

Edited By Wilf.T on 01/04/2019 11:43:18

Edited By Wilf.T on 16/02/2019 21:25:21

Mike, my Wife completely agrees with you!

I've not used a belt sander for some years - decided I now need one so I've bought a 'Parkside' one from Lidl. Not used it in anger but have tried running it - does seem to be very noisy similar to a gearbox wearing out 'cause it hasn't been lubricatefd.

Are Belt sanders noisy or is it just the quality of the Parkside ones?

Edited By Wilf.T on 29/11/2017 16:30:01