Here is a list of all the postings Wilf.T has made in our forums. Click on a thread name to jump to the thread.
|Thread: Want to start woodworking|
Hopefully the following will be practical advice rather than lots of money intially (you’ll never stop buying tools), these are to learn on, ‘cause you will make mistakes along the way and sometimes spoiling something cheap to replace is better than ruining an expensive tool.
So your list, commented >>WT<< :-
Tennon Saw >>WT<< I’d suggest any of the ‘Harden toothed’ ones from Spear & Jackson (S&J), Irwin or Draper.
Hand saw >>WT<< ‘2nd Fix’ S&J Predator initially
4 Various sized chisels >>WT<< An ‘own brand’ (Magnusson) set of 3 from Screwfix. Rather than the highest quality as a beginer you need to know how to sharpen tools, these are easier to maintain a good edge on than more expensive tools.
>>WT<< You need a ‘Honing’ guide and stone (200 & 400/600 grit) or diamond plate.
Mallet >>WT<< Don’t bother, make your own – notes on this site.
Marking gauge >>WT<< Axminster 2153 Marking and Mortice Gauge
Sandpaper of 3 different grits >>WT<< just a roll of 80 or 120 Grit – as used it will get softer (finer) grit.
Tape, >>WT<< 5mtr/with Imp. scale;
ruler, >>WT<< 600 or 1mtr Metal rule;
sliding bevel, >>WT<< The Stanley one from Screwfix is as good as any
Coping saw >>WT<< Bahco or Stanley. Buy spare blades.
Already have an ikea screwdriver with different head types. Will i need more? >>WT<< YES - Cabinet pattern 6x100mm & Pozi No2 X100mm to start with. Don't use slotted screwdrivers as levers. You will buy more as you progress.
A plane >>WT<< You will find a ‘No4’ (Smoothing) plane is more useful (general purpose) than a No5 (Jack) plane. In a hurry – then buy a ‘Faithful’ one (or a kit including a ‘Block Plane' ) when on offer.
Clamps (G shape) >>WT<< Record tools but Irwin ‘Quick-Grips’ are probably as useful.
I'll need a workbench but could I make my own and if so, where to get a vice for it? >>WT<< look at the web. Or a ‘WorkMate’; Then make a saw horse the same height, Use a piece of Kitchen worktop fixed to the ‘fixed’ side of the workmate jaws. You will do most things except chop out mortises on that.
Will need a drill of some description for general purpose. Recoomendations? >>WT<< If they are still available the Aldi ‘brushless’ tools (Ferrex) are excellent value. Otherwise the ‘Erbauer’ range for value.
For ‘quality’ tools I’d be looking second hand at Car Boots or Sunday markets. In recent weeks at the Felixstowe market there has been a Stanley No4 plane for £10, Marples (pre 2000) ‘lollipop’ Chisels for £5 each. Beech mallets for £3 to £5.
A set (index) of twist drills (Aldi's or Lidl's). A set of 'Auger' drills 12/18/25mm initially then 10/16/22/30mm as additions when needed.
Do learn how to sharpen edge tools properly.
Edited By Wilf.T on 16/07/2019 10:47:42
Edited By Wilf.T on 16/07/2019 10:50:27
Edited By Wilf.T on 16/07/2019 10:50:58
Edited By Wilf.T on 16/07/2019 10:55:20
I'm sure you find boxes of screws more economical in the long run, I'll suggest a few to start with, a box of each (in Imperial then metric)?
1 inch No6 / 3x25mm (use for fine woodwork)
1? inch No7 / 3.8x30mm (Door and Window hinges)
1?inch No8 / 4x38mm (general purpose)
Try to buy screws that are not threaded to the head, if you do then you have to either clamp your work pieces together before screwing up or drilling a pilot hole that clears the thread in the material that the screw head will go ? otherwise when screwing up you will always have a gap and a loose joint; it?s known as ?ramp out?.
Then buy more No8 gauge sizes (2inch, 1? inch,) and/or 2inch No10 / 5x50mm as the need arises.
Buying screws loose or in cheapo pre-packs is false economy.
To add to what Brian has offered. Use screws of a length the same as the thickness of wood you screwing into - NOT the ones supplied with the hinges. Screws of typically No7 gauge (or 3.5/3.8 mm)
|Thread: Ledge and braced door|
|You could ask a good woodyard to make up some T&G planks of the right width. They ought to be able to pressure treat them at the same time.|
|Some help here ( https://www.getwoodworking.com/forums/postings.asp?th=126963 )|
A further suggestion is to use 1mm spacers between each board when fixing to the ledges.
|Thread: Bandsaw - Ripping down|
|Thanks Chaps. Whilst I knew and employed many of the useful comments you have all made I guess I was/am expecting just a bit too much. |
I had made the decision to use blades from ?TuffSaws' not long after I bought the machine and do keep both 3/4 variable TPI blade for thick stuff and 6TPI for thinner stock solely for making straight cuts (ripping down). When I adjust the upper guides for the timber thickness I make sure they aren?t flexing the blade in any way - even adjusting the individual rollers if/as necessary.
Again Thanks for confirming I was and am doing all the right things.
|Am I expecting too much of a bandsaw? |
I'll admit I'm new to using one but have used a Table Saw for years. As part of downsizing my 'Toyshop' (Workshop - but the wife says it where I go to play with 'big boys toys'!) I've bought a Bandsaw.
So whilst it will cut curves pretty good and I find it invaluable for cutting Tenons when I try to rip a length of timber I am unable to get a straight cut. The blade seems to wander or pull the timber away from the fence. I've spent hours fettling the machine up; fence is parallel with the blade (set using a ruler with the edge in the gullet of the blade), set the clearance on the blade guide rollers to a couple of paper thickness's either side (and check or reset after I move the blade guard).
I even tried a new blade kept especially for straight cuts. Taken the machine back to the factory to let them look at it. At the factory it cut straight over a 12inch piece of deal but once home it's still no better, wandering when trying to cut a 4 foot piece. It's both frustrating and wasteful.
I believe I have the blade tension correct ? a 'sharp' tone when the blade is plucked.
Have to admit I'm about at the point of buying a cheap Table Saw just to get over this problem.
Edited By Wilf.T on 02/04/2019 11:01:20
Edited By Wilf.T on 02/04/2019 11:06:31
Edited By Wilf.T on 02/04/2019 11:07:01
|Thread: I wanted to Sharpen a Pencil...|
When I started out as an apprentice sharpening of pencils was done on the workshop disk sander. Having much reduced my 'toyshop' I'm now down to 'multi' purposing my tools. Images of the frame to use my portable belt sander as a fixed one.
Edited By Wilf.T on 01/04/2019 11:43:18
|Thread: Black & Decker DN339 Bandsaw|
|Search for DW 100 Bandsaw on the internet. 'tis near enough the same machine.|
|Thread: New to woodworking–need advice|
|Hi Adam. Unable to decide if you are UK or USA based. Anyway, tools are very much of a muchness, the quality is consistent across continents. |
Your question is do you need power tools? Well, I'd say not really but some power tools do make repetitious jobs much easier.
I'm sure you have some ideas on what tools you need to start with but my suggestions are as follows, firstly what to buy new ?
Hand tools, 20/22 inch saw, 10TPI (a.k.a 2nd fix),
Hammer, 12 or 16 oz claw,
Square, - a Combination Square is a good start - buy the best you can afford,
Drill 'index' (a set of twist drills) 1/16" to 3/8" (1.5-10mm).
Screwdrivers, 8"'x 5/16", & No 2 Posidrive (or Phillips) (best the very best you can afford to ensure it will last a long time.
Honing Guide and Sharpening stone initially 300 or 400 grit.
Buy second hand - try garage sales or Car boots markets,
Hand plane - 'Bailey No4 or No5' almost any make earlier than 1980?s. Don't worry about the state of the 'Iron' new ones are easily available - best are Lei Neilson...
Chisels ? 1/2'', 3/4'' and 1'' - anything from Stanley, Marples or Footprint makes.
Hand Drill - 1/16 to 3/8
Jennings pattern 'Bits' (wood twist drills) 3/8", 1/2", 3/4" and 1" initially.
'Workmate' - with a suitable height saw horse and length of kitchen worktop will make a useable bench to start with.
Cramps - 'G' (or 'C') clamps, Sash Cramps, a pair of 48" or 50" will start you off. As many Squeezy clamps as you can find/afford.
Lastly a new tool - a rechargeable 1/2" drill/driver, you have 3 choices/decisions; battery voltage, and is the battery common across a range of power tools.
Once you are used to those tools you should then start to widen your selection.
Edited By Wilf.T on 16/02/2019 21:25:21
|Thread: Tea Lights|
Mike, my Wife completely agrees with you!
|Thread: Removing rust from hand tools|
|Use a Nylon scourer (Scotchbrite) pad. Lubricate with beeswax. I find the 'spray' stuff from Wilko's is excellent for doing this. I use it on the cast iron tables on my saw etc and on hand tools. A fine misting is all you need. |
Only use more aggressive methods if the tools are not flat and true.
|Thread: Cheapo Dovetail jigs|
|Been looking at dovetail jigs - I have a peice to make which will need to have Dovetail joints on the visable corners. Rather more than I wish to spend cutting out by hand but as this is the first peice needing dovetail joints in some years I'm contemplating buy a jig. I'm not keen to spend lots (Trend, etc) on one but happy to buy one of the 'Lumberjack' or 'SIP' varity. Any thoughts?|
|Thread: Parkside (Lidl) hand held Belt Sander|
I've not used a belt sander for some years - decided I now need one so I've bought a 'Parkside' one from Lidl. Not used it in anger but have tried running it - does seem to be very noisy similar to a gearbox wearing out 'cause it hasn't been lubricatefd.
Are Belt sanders noisy or is it just the quality of the Parkside ones?
|Thread: Record Power BS9 or BS250?|
|I know this reply is late. I strongely recommend that you choose (or chosen) a machine with a cast bed. Pressed ones can affect the accuracy of the work you do. |
I would also have suggested buying the 12" machine rather than the 10" just for the extra power.
Anyway I hope you enjoy using which machine you finally decided on.
Edited By Wilf.T on 29/11/2017 16:30:01
|Thread: Inward opening Window lights|
|Customer’s casement windows are being modified to have the outward opening window lights (sashes?) replaced with shutters and the lights now are to open inwards (into the room). |
My question is what ‘Stays’ are available to hold the light open as the shutters will be using the existing casement stays when they are opened.
|Thread: indoor furniture - settee seat frame|
|Thanks, Understand that point and on the whole I agree - but...|
As I will be using elastic webbing stretched between the front and back rails of the seat frame there I'm considering the stresses put onto the frame when weight is applied to the seat which I believe will try to pull the rails together.
have to make a settee. Aim to use 3x2 for the seat frame with elastic webbing for the seat but the question is should the timber be 3 in's high by 2 in's wide or 2in high by 3in wide?
|Thread: Braced plank door|
A few thoughts.
Braces - bottom of shall be on hinge edge of door - so doors will be opposite handed (I hope that makes sense),
Do fix brace to top and bottom ledge - long screws
Do screw outer boards to ledges - makes the door much stronger,
Consider a brace from bottom ledge to top ledge with a Lap Having joint at the middle ledge.
Ledges need to be slightly shorter than width of doors say approx 1/4 at each side.
Fix hinges using bolts at each end of hinge leaf through ledge
|Thread: Futon design|
Does anyone have or know of a published design for a Futon (Japanese 'sofa/bed', please.
3 fold type rather than 2 fold.
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