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Member postings for Mo

Here is a list of all the postings Mo has made in our forums. Click on a thread name to jump to the thread.

Thread: Parallel Edges without jointer
14/08/2008 16:25:00

Pretty much, I did do quite a lot of woodwork/metalwork at school/college and made some cool stuff, but that was quite a few years ago. I kind of fell into programming and web development after that.

Now I am trying to learn everything I have forgoten. There just doesnt seem to be enough enough space in one head unfortunatly!

Also advice here has been very useful, as it is nice to get other people's opinions. Also what you guys said helped me refine my searching a lot.

Posting the link seemed like a good idea if anyone else has a similar question (Lots of forums get touchy about duplicate posting) .

14/08/2008 15:10:00

Ok I did a bit more digging around this site and found

http://www.getwoodworking.com/news/article/mps/uan/94

Which is pretty much what I was looking for. At times the internet can be a very useful place

13/08/2008 12:29:00

I have been watching podcasts by this guy: http://thewoodwhisperer.com/

He pretty much always puts his pieces through a jointer after cutting it on a table saw.

I think the best thing for me to do at the moment may be the hand plane route. That suites the space I have available. I will bear the rest in m ind though, for when I have got a bit more room .

Cheers for the advice.

12/08/2008 11:59:00

Hi All,

I currently dont have a Jointer, so I would like to know the best way to get my pieces to a perfect square (or at least as close as possible)?

I am guessing probably a hand/electric plane, but I am unsure as to the process, and all my books/googling only reference using a Jointer.

Anyone know any good sites or have any tips.

PS: Sorry if this is in the wrong place, but I am not really sure the best topic for it to go under.

Many thanks,

Mo

Thread: Glue for MDF
05/08/2008 17:20:00

Thanks for the tips,

I am using plain MDF, no veneer so I try and grab some sealer and find some nice paint.

I will see what I can find in B&Q tonight. Its probably not the best place, but it will be open and I got a voucher from our work wimbledon sweepstakes .

05/08/2008 16:36:00

Hi All,

I am just wondering if there is a particular type of glue that works best with MDF? I wasn't sure if normal wood glue (if there is such a thing) will do, or will the MDF just suck it up?

Just incase anyone was wondering, I am re-building the amp on my surround sound system (and seperaring the amp from the sub), as far as I am aware (have been told), MDF is a better material for  this.

Also, while I am asking this, what is the best finish to use that will give a nice glossy finish? Is varnish ok?

Mo

Thread: Router plunge depth
05/08/2008 12:22:00

Cheers for all your help on this, not placing the bit all the way in seems to work ok. I tried this before but I think I was plunging to deep (definatly deeper then 5mm) each pass, so the bit was getting stuck (doh).

In the next few months I am hoping to build a small shop out back, so I am sure I will posting loads more during this time .

Mo

15/07/2008 14:40:00

...

 Thanks Richard, that makes a lot of sense... I will try it at half depth (and wear my glasses).

Also I cannot upload pictures, as my SD card reader is playing funny buggers!

Oh well...

Thanks so far for all your advice though

15/07/2008 10:20:00

So I pawed through the manual last night, and looked over the router again and I found a sticker on the back that says "Max plunge depth: 50mm". After getting out a tape measure, I can confirm that it is plunging by 50mm.

Also the gap is more like 15mm than 25mm (sorry, I am switching between inches and millimeters like a crazy person), but it still appears to be a greater gap than other models I have seen.

With this knowldge, I thought I had better check that I am not trying to route a channel that is deeper than maybe I should be. I was trying to route a 20mm deep channel with an 18mm bit, the length of the actual bit is about 25mm so to me it didn't seem to much, is that the case?

Also, I am going to try and upload images now.

Mo

14/07/2008 14:37:00

I have quadrupal checked the depth gague, but it is not that. I cannot see anything external that would be stopping the router plunging further.

It is a twin pillar model, with 6.35 and 8 mm collets. The only thing I can think is that the pillars have been made too long, but that seems quite a bizzare fault. The biggest problem is that I cannot find the reciept .

Anyway, I will try to post a pic when I get home.

Mo

14/07/2008 14:05:00

Hi All, I am new to the forum and thought I would say hi, and start off with possibly a strange question.

I have recently purchased a router from B&Q, it is one of their "Performance  Power" range but doesn't seem to be plunging corrctly. Currently the maximum depth it will plunge results in the Collet being about an inch above the base.I have done a lot of research qand head scratching and to me this doesnt seem right.

I am sure I am not being stupid, as when I secure the bit to what appears to be the correct depth, only about a quarter of the bit is proud of the base.

Does anyone else have experience of this router, or maybe some pictures demonstrating how far a router should plunge?

Thanks in advance for any assistance,

Mo

Thread: Parallel Edges without jointer
14/08/2008 16:25:00

Pretty much, I did do quite a lot of woodwork/metalwork at school/college and made some cool stuff, but that was quite a few years ago. I kind of fell into programming and web development after that.

Now I am trying to learn everything I have forgoten. There just doesnt seem to be enough enough space in one head unfortunatly!

Also advice here has been very useful, as it is nice to get other people's opinions. Also what you guys said helped me refine my searching a lot.

Posting the link seemed like a good idea if anyone else has a similar question (Lots of forums get touchy about duplicate posting) .

14/08/2008 15:10:00

Ok I did a bit more digging around this site and found

http://www.getwoodworking.com/news/article/mps/uan/94

Which is pretty much what I was looking for. At times the internet can be a very useful place

13/08/2008 12:29:00

I have been watching podcasts by this guy: http://thewoodwhisperer.com/

He pretty much always puts his pieces through a jointer after cutting it on a table saw.

I think the best thing for me to do at the moment may be the hand plane route. That suites the space I have available. I will bear the rest in m ind though, for when I have got a bit more room .

Cheers for the advice.

12/08/2008 11:59:00

Hi All,

I currently dont have a Jointer, so I would like to know the best way to get my pieces to a perfect square (or at least as close as possible)?

I am guessing probably a hand/electric plane, but I am unsure as to the process, and all my books/googling only reference using a Jointer.

Anyone know any good sites or have any tips.

PS: Sorry if this is in the wrong place, but I am not really sure the best topic for it to go under.

Many thanks,

Mo

Thread: Glue for MDF
05/08/2008 17:20:00

Thanks for the tips,

I am using plain MDF, no veneer so I try and grab some sealer and find some nice paint.

I will see what I can find in B&Q tonight. Its probably not the best place, but it will be open and I got a voucher from our work wimbledon sweepstakes .

05/08/2008 16:36:00

Hi All,

I am just wondering if there is a particular type of glue that works best with MDF? I wasn't sure if normal wood glue (if there is such a thing) will do, or will the MDF just suck it up?

Just incase anyone was wondering, I am re-building the amp on my surround sound system (and seperaring the amp from the sub), as far as I am aware (have been told), MDF is a better material for  this.

Also, while I am asking this, what is the best finish to use that will give a nice glossy finish? Is varnish ok?

Mo

Thread: Router plunge depth
05/08/2008 12:22:00

Cheers for all your help on this, not placing the bit all the way in seems to work ok. I tried this before but I think I was plunging to deep (definatly deeper then 5mm) each pass, so the bit was getting stuck (doh).

In the next few months I am hoping to build a small shop out back, so I am sure I will posting loads more during this time .

Mo

15/07/2008 14:40:00

...

 Thanks Richard, that makes a lot of sense... I will try it at half depth (and wear my glasses).

Also I cannot upload pictures, as my SD card reader is playing funny buggers!

Oh well...

Thanks so far for all your advice though

15/07/2008 10:20:00

So I pawed through the manual last night, and looked over the router again and I found a sticker on the back that says "Max plunge depth: 50mm". After getting out a tape measure, I can confirm that it is plunging by 50mm.

Also the gap is more like 15mm than 25mm (sorry, I am switching between inches and millimeters like a crazy person), but it still appears to be a greater gap than other models I have seen.

With this knowldge, I thought I had better check that I am not trying to route a channel that is deeper than maybe I should be. I was trying to route a 20mm deep channel with an 18mm bit, the length of the actual bit is about 25mm so to me it didn't seem to much, is that the case?

Also, I am going to try and upload images now.

Mo

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