Here is a list of all the postings g d has made in our forums. Click on a thread name to jump to the thread.
|Thread: Axminster tools - apalling build quality!|
Thanks for your thoughts Andy,
the version I have the clamp for the surfacer isnt dovetailed, its just a flat bit of metal, 2" wide 1/8" thick, which goes through a small 'bridge' of steel, and is clamped with a M6 handwheel. Odd that such a lump of iron is held with one tiny bolt...
The spindle guard is iron now - with impregnated lead by the weight of it... with wambly alloy fences as per your review.
<ot> is there any facility for posting images on here, and host them (ie not just an [ img ] tag?
Odjob - sadly - I am a newbie - to wood - I have a background in mechanical engineering, and some film industry manufacturing.... My background for wood is thus:-
I bought a draper contractors table saw, for 50 quid (later sold for 250+ on fleabay ) - and found that it was very useful for making stuff around my smallholding - stakes, frames, etc - all pretty rough. I only expected to use it hack up some plywood sheets. I then needed a new bench for the kitchen, so made one from pre-planed 1" pine and some matchboard - its 10 feet long, and a massive box for all the plastic containers we use from the takeaway..... Recieving praise for this, from the mrs, as well as passers by, and surprising myself by actually enjoying the experience, (as opposed to the forced woodworking at school) I decide that I should get some decent kit. Having learnt that cheap stuff (eg 9.99 angle grinders) doesnt last, I now buy almost exclusivly blue bosch - 300+ for a cordless 36v drill, 120 for an angle grinder, etc etc. OK - I'm not on the dole, obviously, but I appreciate good kit. My research - including a review from Andy of the magazine (goodwoodworking?) said it was an OK bit of kit for light trade - which is about where I class myself.
Sadly, its crap. But its 2 grand crap, not 50 quid crap.
New bits found today of crapness:-
Re sharpened planer blades - two fitted perfectly, but the third, couldnt get spanner in the slot to tighten the lock bolts. took out 'wedge' piece, to find it bent like a banana - by about 6mm. Vice, tube, anvil, and 8 oz hammer rectified this to less than 0.2mm bend.
3 tonne spindle moulder guard is 3mm too wide to be able to miss the plate holding the guard for the planer. So in order to use either of the devices, you need to remove the other guard - yet the wood would be mutually exclusivly in different places (unlike the saw/moulder interface). If they, said aforementioned prawn brained ham fisted monkeys, had sited the spindle moulder 5mm across, or made the guard 5mm thinner, or the planer 5mm across the other way, then you wouldnt have to do this. Why? Thats just dumb, unthinking, illogical, annoying and poor design. I have hacked at the side of the moulder guide with my grinder, but so far have only removed 2mm of re-cycled locomotive engine crankshafts. Oh - and I had to re-thread the lock down bolts for the 3 tonne guard too.... There are also two holes for the right hand bolt to go into - about 1/2" apart - and identical. It doesnt show / say which hole is correct, so I have resorted to a permenant marker tick to show which one to use. There is not mention in the manual of this - or of the purpose of the extra threaded holes.
Planer fence - a bolt to define 90 degrees - yay - its a 10mm bolt (17mm spanner) and nice and solid in a lump of cast iron. The fence is a weighty bit of cast iron - yay, nice and solid. The wanky bit of tin that holds the two together is a loose fitting, sloppily made half moon track, with two clamps (that rotate to tighten, meaning that as you tighten them, they try to alter the angle you have set), where the track is so loose to the clamps, that there is a 5 degree wobble every time you set 'zero', depending if you tighten the left clamp or the right first, or if you push or pull the fence (difficult to describe) whilst tightening. Whats wrong with an over-centre clamp - like the ones that hold my bicycle wheels on? No rotating there.... and no expense.
My uncle - who is a cabinet maker (I believe that is the correct term - he makes nice tables, dolls houses, bespoke oak kitchens from scratch etc) agreed that it was a bit crap.
Having done some research, I plumped for a AWC4 - the combination machine, according to the reviews, it seemed to be the best DIY / light trade machine. I bought a barely used machine off fleabay - some of the original wrapping was on it, and there was no dust in the saw, so I can assume it hadnt been used (apart from the planer). I am a wood newbie, so please excuse any machine part name errors.
How the hell do they get away with it?????
Examples found so far:-
Main saw fence, held to sliding clamp with 4 x M4 screws into 2mm of ally. No dowel fixing, no security, no adjustment. bit of leverage on the 'saw' end of the fence, and the screws work loose. No loctite or similar on the threads. Considerable re-machining requied, and much bigger bolts loctited in to fix this most commonly used item.
Saw angle end stops - tiny M4 screws which butt up against a hand-ground stop bolt (they took a M8 bolt, and ground the threads off it with an angle grinder by the looks of it). Not straight, so if you wind the handle to the end 'enthusiastically', the M4 bolt slips round the ground down M8 shank, bending it. Adjustment only possible after taking several covers off.
Planer blade jig - a 'precision' part, one end the guide was at 10 degrees, with a self tapping screw wedged roughly in. No way would this jig work. Had ot be taken apart, filed and adjusted, and re-assembled with something more delicate than a ham fisted monkey.
Main angle guide bar - the one you use to cut an angle on the sliding table, cannot be adjusted to 45 degrees, as the clamps hit one another. A simple re-design, with one of the clamps moved 1/2" across would fix this - zero cost except a brain that works better than a prawn.
Spindle moulder guard - weighs about three tons, but the fence is ally, and wobbly. Main clamping down bolts (M8) so badly made I couldnt thread then into the table. I had to re-machine them. As you put the ships anchor - sorry - guard - onto the table, the two clamp bolts take all the weight. Either - allow for more loose movement in the bolt, so that they dont hit the table, - or machine off the end of the thread (dog point) so that it doesnt mush the thread. Neither options are exactly high cost solutions.
OK - I am not buying top quality kit - I apreciate this, but the build quality is no better than a cheap and nasty ryobi (in fact I think the ryobi threads are better than the axminster) - but the ryobi table is made of thin ally, the axmister from cast iron. I am slightly regretting my decision to buy 'new' vs old wadkin or dominion or similar 1950's kit, as I thought that new would be better, and not as worn out.
Anyone want to buy an AWC4? lol.....
|Thread: Router rounding plywood edge?|
Thanks Simon - especially for not taking the mickey
the left side of the fence indeed has a separate adjustment with a screw jack mechanism - it is wound back to zero, or as flush as it can be. It was new to me (xmas present) so I know noone else has used it. I have taken it apart, to make sure there was no fluff/swarf/woodshavings in there - and its clean. It just seemed really odd that putting a straightedge along it the left fence is 3mm or so in front of the right fence. I cnat make it go back any more.
the whole thing slides on a crude pair of slots, with nothing bar the inset tape measure to ensure it is parallel to the table - which doesnt work as the measurements are different left to right!
I have used the plastic featherboard to hold the strip to the back, and the fence has two spring fingers (1" wide bent bits of metal, skid like)which I set to hold down the strip as it passed over the cutter.
It almost looks like the cutter is going up and down on the shaft - but I cant see how - the locknut is tight (btw - is it normal for the locknut to have to be loosened slightly, then it can be undone by fingers for about 2 turns, but the cutter still cant be withdrawn, until it is -"re-loosened" after the two turns bit?)
The strips are 70mm (3") wide nominally, 1/2" thick marine ply, router is a ryobi 1100 odd watt, the table is and ART03 http://www.toolstop.co.uk/index.php?option=shop&page=shop.product_details&product_id=10437&l=uk&utm_source=google&utm_medium=base I think. (its outside in a locked shed, Im inside in the warm...)
I come from a mechanical engineering background, with the ability to use metal lathes, mills etc etc.
newbie to the whole wood thang here....
got a bit of the wood bug, and went and build a wood bench / cupboard thing for the kitchen with minimal and poor quality tools (draper contractor table saw, ryobi hand help router) - it turned out ok, so lookign to improve my skills - I'm normally a metal man - so the whole flex, bending, grain thing is a bit confusing to me!
I have tried to make a bed base for my campervan - to this end, admittedly simple design - I need to router edge (Im pretty sure thats not the right term...) the strips of 1/2" marine ply, so I have a nice round edge.
I set up my 99p ryobi router table, with said 4.99 router in it (after having replaced the made-of-chinese-cheese screws with decent 8.9 allen bolts, modified the bench to accept counterbored bolts not countersunk screws.....) with a 9mm radius rounding over bit in it - with the tangent at table level +/- 0.5mm.
I attempted to get the 'fence' (backstop thing?) level - this appears to be impossible - the left fence has an adjustement fore/aft, the right none - yet with left at minimum, the two are still 3mm or so out of line. Almost as if the minimum cut you can take is 3mm (which is obvuiously wrong...)
So - I ignored the fence settings - as the bit has a bearing on it, which prevents too deep a cut.
the roundy-ness was all over the place, despite me trying my best to keep it pushed into the bearing and the 'floor'. Said crappy table is supplied with a plastic feather finger thing, but I doubt it would make any difference?
I have to say I have just bought an axminster AWC4 combo table thing on fleabay - I fear that my ally / tin / coke-can setup isnt really good enough - but it should handle a bit of 1/2" ply - shouldnt it?
Thanks in advance
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