Member postings for Vaughn

Hi Eric

i like the sound of that. although i like how these studs look, i do prefer not to mix materials if i can. Any chance of a photo of these studs your club friend makes?

cheers

vaughn

Hi Ralph

I fortunately bought two sizes of studs for another project, and will be using the smaller ones on the small bowl. i'm aiming to keep the proportions of the rim and stud width the same.

This wood actually comes from a factory in my town, a massive steelworks. it is from crates used to transport very heavy (2 ton) hydraulic presses. the sections are all incredibly greasy and stained. in some places the wood looks spalted, but i think it is actually oil. 

the wood planes very nicely, but it is hell to sand. any type of sandpaper i have used erodes very quickly. it also has a fairly open grain, and a very irregular pattern on most of the planks.

i used most of it to build my bedside cabinets. reckon i'll post some photo's of that to aid Mike in his quest to promote cabinet making. hope the comments are kind, i intentionally made them very bulky and rough, sort of a "farmhouse" feel.

regards

vaughn 

Hi Ralph

Thanks, i thought i'd try something a bit different, since the bowl is quite shallow. for some reason the studs are very popular right now, the furniture makers use them on just about everything. i make the odd bowl for a shop in my area, and the owner asked me to try something in this line. i am making another about half this size, to sell it as a set.

 I must confess, to the best of my knowledge i think it is iroko! it is about 10.5 inches across.

regards

vaughn

Hi Dave

i really like your bowl, fully agree with what george says. please tell what wood you used, especially the thin strips. also, how big is it approx?

like ralph says, can't wait to see whats next

regards

vaughn 

Hi

Vanderbijlpark. Close on the Vaal River. My dad lives in the cape, just outside Paarl.

regards

vaughn 

Hi all

i found this website while trying to see how old one of my stanley tools is. Hope you have a look, it really is quite interesting to see.

www.antique-used-tools.com/stantms.htm

regards

vaughn

Hi Marc

The blade is stamped "Stanley" with the sweetheart emblem, and then "New Britain, Conn, U.S.A." I found a website with all the stanley trademarks, which dates this to 1919-1920.

I paid R45 (rand) for it, which is the equivalent of about 3 pound. i also bought a stanley block plane for R95, about 6 pound.

cheers

vaughn

Hi All

I bought this stanley no.67 spokeshave a two days ago. i'm very happy with the condition it is in, but i suspect it may be missing a fence of some sort. pleasee let me know if any of you guys have sen these before.

thanks

vaughn 

Hi Ralph

thanks very much! i am running out of solid wood big enough to make one piece bowls, so i have to turf through the wood pile before anything happens. 

i am hoping to start some proper segmented stuff soon, so this is good practice.

cheers

vaughn

hi marc

i think i started a bit too big on these. basically finished one. the window they are for is huge, and the curtain rod is a half round almost 2 inches wide. should finish up on about 4 inch diameter, slightly oval shape. will post final photo!

cheers

vaughn 

Hi Marc

was the pine hard to turn in end grain? i really like the finish you got out of it. what did you use to finish with? also, what profile hollowing tool did you use?

i have access to lots of pine and saligna in round form, after seeing this i might give them a go. 

regards

vaughn

Hi George

have you had a look at http://www.oldtools.co.uk? they usually have very nice stuff, and right now are advertising new Ray Iles drawkives from about 29 pound.

Because of the brutal exchange rate and shipping costs i can't usually afford their stuff, but it is a good reference for price.

regards

vaughn

Hi Marc

Thanks for the link, i read it and will use it for future reference. who makes the "restore" product? i don't think i've seen it in south africa.

if i can get it there are quite a few tools i have not bought that will be added promptly.

i live in an area where there are many antique/vintage stores, but some of the stuff seems virtually unsaveable. reckon i'll look more carefully in future.

regards

vaughn

Hi Marc

Thanks very much! i wish i still had the pre-restoration photo. my pc was stolen, and still looking thru backups to see if i have it.

all i did was work through the various grits, from 60 to 800. i then used a buffing wheel with fine paste(pink in color, can't remember what grit). i did use a bit of lubricating oil, which i normally use with oilstones when i sharpen knives. thats it really. after all that the rust was gone, but some pitting remains. when i started you could barely read the markings. 

i reckon the oil, and the resulting slurry, does a good job of removing and sealing.

regards

vaughn

Hi George and Ralph

thanks very much! just got some interesting blanks, hope to post more soon.

vaughn

Hi Ralph

Thank you very much! this is the piece i referred to in "unbalanced blank". i tried both your and George's suggestions, which is how the vibration problem was solved.

i really appreciate the help and the feedback, good or bad

vaughn

Hi

I really enjoyed the article. i had an old spokeshave in my hand today, and didn't buy it. i reckon i'll go back for it tomorrow and give it a try. i recently bought a marples drawknife for the equivalent of 2 pound, and it turned out fantastic.

could we possibly see a similar article just on hand planes? 

Hi Ralph and George

thanks very much for the ideas. i did add some weight to the lathe table, which helped the vibration alot.

I also put a strap around the block of wood, and tucked in a heavy bolt to act as a balance on the lighter side. this also worked well.

the vibration is at a minimum, and i have started to turn the hollow. the wood is very hard, so i'm probably in for an evening or two's worth of shaping.

i should be buying a new digital camera this week, and will definately post a picture.

thanks very much for the useful tips!

vaughn

Hi all

i am trying to turn a hollow in a square(ish) piece of wood. it is quite unevenly worn, and very heavy. also, i don't think the wood is the same density throughout. i want to leave the shape as is, as the edges are very rugged and full of character. i think a nicely smoothed hollow would contrast very well. the wood is jarrah, approx 4 inches thick, and 10 across.

my problem is i can't get the thing balanced enough to faceplate turn it. regardless of where i put the faceplate i get very bad vibrations.

apart from trial and error, how do i get this thing centered?