Here is a list of all the postings Ashley Slater has made in our forums. Click on a thread name to jump to the thread.
|Thread: Dust extractor filter bags|
Hi to all. Has anybody tried to make their own filter bag using the correct fabric. If so I'd like to know where you obtained the correct material, I want to make an oversize bad for my dust collector to try and improve the filtration efficiency so I want to obtain a finer filter mesh that it has now and compensate for the reduced airflow by making a bigger bag. Seems simple enough I can use a sewing machine just as well as I can use a band saw ! The bottom plastic bag will remain.
|Thread: Planer thicknesser problem|
I doubt that these rollers could be reground if they are the fine flutes similar to Wadkin machines more likely thay could be sorted by hobbing or indexing on a shaper. The difficult bit will be to find an engineer willing to do the work or that you can afford. It's an interesting challenge, there must be some retired folk Ex Wadkin employees in Leicester or other area where wood machinery was made who can tell you how they were made. Failing that watch Ebay carefully and try and get an old machine with better rollers as long as the rollers are approx correct size I would think shafts and bearings could easily be adapted. You will need to ensure that both feed rollers ie those before the knives and after are the same diameter as they are both chain driven if different diameters the larger one would mangle (tech term) the wood.
These old machines are indestructable, and very heavily built but normally easy to repair so don't give up or replace it with a lesser machine !
On second thoughts this must be or was a common problem in industry so have you asked a local saw sharpening company as well as machinery dealers, Scott and Seargent have been around for ages and may be able to help.
Are you working in a cold damp workshop as my planer doesn't feed too well in the cold.You may like to put a request for engineering help here, with luck somebody will reply. http://www.homeworkshop.org.uk/
|Thread: Double glazed sash windows|
Hi Mike Impressive but rather obvious solution. Any idea of cost, my experience of buying double glazed panels is that price can be very variable up to 50% cheaper at some glazing merchants.
Hi. Three comments, Doubt if the existing frames are thick enough to take the units. If they do you will need bigger weights which is could be easy if your local breakers yard has a pile of old ones. You can use silicone mastic instead of seals to give extra room.
|Thread: Shoulder planes|
Hi I have a Stanley similar to the Clifton it is fine. The biggest problem is getting the blade central and square to the bottom so that it cuts the same when used on either side. Keep a careful watch on EBay you should find one for much less money than a Clifton. Having said that there's a fair amount of work in making one of these planes in small batches so the price reflects the amount of hand work, we never seem to mind paying £70+ per hour to have our cars serviced or £200 per day for builders. On the Phillyplanes I would like to try one first, in my world wooden planes were superseeded by metal planes for good reasons and they do look a bit basic, they come in the retirement gift category for me.
|Thread: Colouring engraved lettering|
I am making a notice board for my local Church it will be located outside but under cover in the Church porch. I have had some machine engraving done on the bottom rail that I want to colour in with black paint so that it is more visible. Now I intend to finsih the whole thing with Fiddes hard wax oil or similar as I was impressed with the product when I saw it in action. Fiddes tell me that I can't paint over it so I'll have to fill the lettering in first but I will need to seal the wood before I paint it to prevent the paint from spreading into the oak especially on the surface. My question is what to seal the oak with. I have sanding sealer both cellulose and sprit but I am concerned that this is not really an exterior product. Anybody done something similar and would like to comment on how you did it especially if it's stood the test of time.
|Thread: rspt260 problems|
Some comments on motors.
A start capacitor is just that only in circuit to start the motor once running it does nothing so if motor starts the start capacitor is normally OK.
Some motors have a run capacitor if this fails it will affect the running.
Faults on capacitors are fairly rare with new motors capacitors are robust items even the far eastern and Chinese ones.
If you look at industrial motors you will see cost for a smallish single phase motor in the £150 region probably more for a UK made one (if you can find one), that should give you an idea of the quality of a £75 motor.
Do check if buying motors from Machine Mart , Axminster etc that they rotate in the correct direction as it is not always possible to reverse direction with some of the cheaper designs.
E-Bay dare I say it, is a good scource of motors I've bought a few over the years and all have been fine if you stick to established names. For planer thicknessers you should be looking at a minimum of 1.5 HP.
Rewinding motors is uneconomic for small motors ie less than 10HP but could be useful if you have a special design motor, years ago it was feasable but now it's too expensive.
Do try and protect motors with a thermal trip, these should be fitted in the starter box if you are using one and the current set to the continuous current from the identification plate on the motor, again these are moderately expensive items but heat kills motors quickly.The small No Volt Release Switches do not protect the motor with a thermal trip.
If you go above 1.5HP the starting current is likely to blow 13A fuses if you are using single phase so you will need to obtain a 16A supply. I do run a 2HP single phase motor on a compressor and it's fine but only just. Once running current draw is much less and 13A sockets are fine it's the high load at startup.
If you are having troubles with pulley and shaft sizes you can obtain cast iron taper lock pulleys and bushes in a multitude of sizes, once fitted they don't come loose and are easy to remove , I've had much aggro with aluminium pulleys and have stopped using them as often a taperlock pulley and bush are cheaper, check out the following web site I've no connection but they are fantastically efficient. http://www.bearingboys.co.uk
If you want the Rolls Royce of speed control use a three phase motor and a single to 3 phase inverter, they work fantastically well, there are many makes all are more or less the same but you can vary the shaft speed usefully from 50 RPM to over 2000 RPM with safety as thermal protection is normally built in as is time to accelerate etc etc. It needn't be too expensive. Great for lathes if you want more info send me a message I'll try and help.
|Thread: Exterior plywood (structural grade)|
Hi Shoggy, You say Brazilian Pine Structural ply, the key here is Pine. This is a good product for structural use but it is normally covered and shielded from the elements, I'm not surprised it has delaminated when used for a shed. I suspect the pine wood has decayed as well. Whatever the grade of ply wood will still rot and dry out if left uncovered, the glue won't but that is of little consequence. I've had hardwood exterior ply rot away completly in 4-5 years when left exposed. In all honesty you get what you pay for exterior pine ply may be good to line a shed but not to clad the xtterior, here feather edge or shiplap are the best and will last 20 years or so with regular maintenance.
|Thread: Glue for MDF|
Now. First glue, any PVA will work well enough, but I prefer Titebond II or III. I assume you are using veneered MDF then any normal finish system will work well but it will depend on the veneer species. If you are going to varnish plain MDF I would advise using MDF sealer (white) then regular paint , I usually use a small foam roller and get super results. Varnished MDF is a bit dull for a living area. MDF is very dense and I suspect ideal for speaker cabs, I've made lots of draws tables desks etc. from MDF painted as discribed and they look great.
|Thread: kity 613 bandsaw|
OK. I've had a look. Scott & Sargeant do a cork rubber bandsaw tyre that you glue on, it is available by the meter and there is glue as well (not a cheap option !) . Other than that Carter products USA list many sizes of tyre as do other US suppliers. Have you tried local saw sharpening service , bandsaw tyres must wear out on a regular basis in industry. I've got a Kity 613 and had no problem with tyres, all in all it's not a bad machine though not nearly as good as the Startrite at work. Kity's poor fence and lack of lower blade thrust bearing let it down.
|Hi. Do search the web I ahve seen bandsaw tyres that werea available in differeent sizes maybe even custom sizes. Can't remember if it was in UK or USA will have a look on Google shortly. Don't forget with the dollar so weak shipping from USA is chaeaper than ever and normally you can use a credit card|
|Thread: Help With Record/Coronet Bed Bars|
Hi to all. It's no problem to get solid or tubular bars the issue is cost. I don't want to spend too much, I can go to the local scrap merchant who may be able to supply 1.5 inch soilid bar even stainless at scrap prices. I can get BDMS from our local steel stockholder in 3M lengths but it's pricey and difficult to get home to avoid costly delivery charges, I've cut up small bar in the yard before with a hacksaw to get it into the car. The original issue was I didn't know the size of the bars, I bought the lathe without bars very cheaply, I want to add some bars see what it's like then decide keep or sell. Selling may be problematic as with soild bars it ain't half going to be heavy. Still no rush busy trying to mount a band-facer vertically at the moment and am stuck for a sanding/work table so I need to concentrate on that for the time being, I'll get back to the lathe later in the year.
I think enough said on this subject
Got it. I'll ask Mr Child at £30 a pair its possible, but I think these new bars are tubular not solid.
|Thread: Large Ranch gate|
On thr subject of glue. Some while ago I put some Titebond 3 in a melamine dish, unfortunately it dried and I tried in vain to clean it up. Sunsequently I've put it through at least 20 dishwasher cycles and it's still there. My money's on Titebond 3. I've used lots of PU too, blimey you don't half have to be quick with the 5 minuite stuff.
|Thread: Rounding tops for a palisade fence|
Hi I agree with the router break-out comment it would be a problem unless you turn the work over and rout a quarter circle each time. I don't favour freehand approach. Looks like band saw and belt sander. Jig for bandsaw and belt sander/band facer is more or less the same. My only issue is the space needed to swing a 1.5M length around. Lets see if customer goes ahead, cost of the oak is very high. How about rounding the 200mm square post, lets face it I can't lift them, on to the band saw it the tool or whatever will have to move.
|Thread: Large Ranch gate|
Read somewhere that diagonal bracing in either direction is just as effective well it was 5% less effective the wrong way, if that makes sense. My old book tells me to keep the brace away from the uprights by 25 mm (ie the brace joins to the cross rails only) or so to prevent the cross rail upright joint being pushed apart. However with modern glues this may be not be required.
|Thread: Rounding tops for a palisade fence|
Hi. Anybody care to help with rounding the tops of 50+ slats for a palisade fence. Slats will be 70mm X 20mm thick and up to 1.5M tall. Obviously I need a jig anybody done this there must be an easy way. Jig construction metalwork, lathe welding etc no problem. Also does anybody know how the tops of 200 X 200mm oak posts are rounded to match. I was thinking of making a swinging routher jig moving the router in a semicircle above the top of the post. Any help appreciated. Why doesn't the designer want pointed ends much easier !
|Thread: Help needed to strip|
It strikes me all of the suggestions have one weak point, that being the weakest bond between the wall, sandtex, plaster or tile. I have just installed a stone fireplace for a friend and there were no instructions apart from the delivery driver who said just stick it all together with "no nails". OK thats what I did, but if I had stuck the fireplace to the wallpaper I'd have had the whole fireplace held to the wall with wallpaper adesive (yes I know it worked holding that man on to the aeroplane in the advert). I put in some metal ties screwed to the wall and glued into the joints as well.
|Thread: Help With Record/Coronet Bed Bars|
I think bars are 1.5 inches, can't see ordainary Bright Steel flexing at this size. Difficult to buy a stronger grade in small quantities. Stainless would be available but at a very high cost.
|Thread: A guide to buying second hand kit|
Just had a look at the buying guide, very useful. But warned that rewinding small electric motors is hopelessly uneconomic, by small I mean under 5 HP. It's best to replace as, rewinders will charge much more than a new motor. Most motors can be serviced easily but if the windings are cooked you have no real option other than to replace the whole thing.
Want the latest issue of The Woodworker incorporating Good Woodworking? Use our magazine locator links to find your nearest stockist!
We're always happy to hear from you, so feel free to get in touch!