Here is a list of all the postings David Keast has made in our forums. Click on a thread name to jump to the thread.
|Thread: Dual curved-lid box|
Lovely job ! Shame about the hinge problem, that's the trouble with pushing on when tired. I've done something similar all too often.
Interesting comments about the inside curves. I've had the same experience and used the end of the static belt sander too. Another tool that worked for me is a sanding gadget made up of flaps of sandpaper mounted on a spindle in the power drill. Not sure what they are called in english... They can be useful for detail touch ups where the bench sander is a bit big and clumsy.
|Thread: Dining chairs, first attempt, WIP photos|
Whew! The basic joinery of the prototype chair is f... f... , no I cant say it, the f word is not permitted in our family (f for 'finished' that is).
Yesterday pm I glued it all up, and today I fitted the bottom stretchers which are half lap dovetailed into the lower side rails. There remains a lot of finishing work, pencil marks, glue squeeze out etc. to deal with, but it is made and solid as a rock. VERY heavy. A particular pleasure was finding everything that should be square, was square when clamping up. The only tweak was a diagonal clamp across the front left to back right of the seat area to get the diagonals symetrical. Only a couple of mm though. Miracle of miracles, it also stands level!
These are the half lap dovetails for the stretchers. The joint between the lower side rail and the back leg was the most difficult, the compound mitre I mentioned before.
Next decision is what to upholster in. The original article shows leather, but I'm not sure for our interior. Will consult Jacquie...
David in Périgord Vert
Then after lunch.............
The side rails require tenons out of angled shoulders, not something I would contemplate by hand. Rodel proposes mortices and slip tenons, so that's what I did. The mortices were cut in the router box, parallel to the rail sides. Two shown here, one with the slip tenon fitted.
To finish the angled joinery pictures, here are the front and back legs with the slip tenons fitted, you can clearly see the angle.
At this point another error became apparent. ops:" src="./images/smilies/icon_redface.gif"> The front and rear rails have haunched tenons to prevent conflict with the tenons from the side rails.
When I came to tidy up the mortices in the front legs, it became clear that I had cut the shallow part of the mortice a wee bit too deep and the deep mortice for the side rail broke into it. At first I thought this really doesnt matter, no one can see it, but on reflection, it will significantly reduce the glue area on one side of a critical tenon and so should be avoided for the future. More notes on drawings.
I could not resist a dry assembly at this stage, but although it went together perfectly (angles spot on), it tended to fall apart again as the slip tenons were really a tiny bit thin and the fit too loose as a result. I'd tried to save time by cutting the 12mm slice on the table saw rather than planing to thickness and it is not really good enough. I'll make some more tenon stock in a minute and try again.
Another rainy day - so a bit more progress!
Yesterday was the day to tackle the dreaded angled M&T joints. Rodel proposes a router box with an angled support for the work, so I decided to follow that advice. First the angled support. Easy enough to cut on the table saw, but how to set the blade to 85°? I used a scaled up printout of the plan view to set an angle gauge :
Then used that to set the blade on the table saw. I cut a block about 60x60mm roughly in half, giving me two chunky sections each with the correct angle for use as supports. One proved to be enough in the router box :
At this point I hit on another snag - how to tell if the work was horizontal (or rather parallel to the lip of the router box). The leg is shaped, so it cant be rested on the bottom of the router box. Horizontal proved to be the key, I set the router box in the vice using a spirit level, then inched a wedge under the work 'till the spirit level said that was horizontal too. Here you can see the angled block with the leg clamped to it. Notice the "wedge" holding the other end of the work, because the work is angled, a rectangular block works fine as a wedge!
Here is one of the mortices before squaring up with a chisel. There are 8 angled mortices, two in each leg, with quite a bit of setting up for each one on the shaped back legs. The front legs were very simple by comparison, being straight. I tried to judge the ends of the mortices by eye up to a scribed line for the first one, but the results were a bit ragged, so I used stop blocks clamped to the router box for all the others.
An aside here, the ideal size for these mortices is around 12mm (Rodel uses 1/2 inch), but I dont have a 12mm spiral up-cutter. I used my trusty 8mm cutter, but it meant moving the guide on the router base for every cut. Fortunately, the screw adjuster for the guide on my Metabo router is accurate and after a wee bit of experimenting, I found I could simply move it by a precise number of turns of the screw and it came out fine. The process is rather tedious however, so I'm going to experiment with the router box set up on the table of the hollow chisel morticer before making the next chair.
If that does not work I may have to buy a new cutter!
The chasse dinner was a great success, 160 attendees. With 10 friends we finished off the last of the red wine at 3am, so strictly no woodworking or any other activities involving sharp objects today!
Will get back to the chair on monday and then I really have to stop procrastinating and cut the dreaded angled M&Ts for the side members.
We had a rainy day, so a day off from gardening and some progress was made on the protoype chair.
First, the mortices for the parts linking the two back legs were cut using a hollow chisel morticer. Then I hand fitted (chisel and shoulder plane) the dodgy tenons described earlier. Tidying the shoulders of the tenons resulted in reducing the width of the entire chair by a couple of mm, but you would never have known if I hadn't admitted it would you?
Next I cut the vertical members of the back splat (think that's the right word in UK english), straight forward rip on the table saw and hand planed to exact size. Tenons were cut on the table saw as per my usual practice, the sizes of the parts having been tweeked a wee bit from the original design to give a 8 x 16mm tenon with shoulders the same all round to simplify cutting on the table saw. The verticals were then grooved on the router table to take the inserts. This involved a stopped dado, achieved with a stop block clamped to the fence. The screw adjuster I made for the fence position proved invaluable in creeping up on a central dado position (using offcuts).
An thick offcut from an earlier job was then planed to 35mm thickness and sliced up on the table saw to produce the inserts.
Verticals plus inserts then assembled dry and the assembly used to mark the positions of the mortices on the cross members of the back assembly. Mortices cut on the hollow chisel morticer, using the curved section cut from the curved top component to support it level while morticing.
A quick dry assembly to see if it all fits and bingo! Not too bad. (the curved parts that I struggled with using a spokeshave have been sanded into submission).
Now I need another rainy day. Wont be this weekend though, even if it does rain as this saturday evening is the annual hunt dinner, probably wont be safe near sharp objects for a day or so.... http://www.jumilhac.fr/mailing-fr/2011-03-07fr.htm
Edited By David Keast on 19/03/2011 18:20:21
Looks like I managed to cut off a bit of text :
Here is the last sentence :
The back seat rail is next, tenons cut on the table saw and then the curve cut on the band saw At the time of taking the photo, this part is straight off the saw and the edges are not yet rounded over. The tenons are haunched to allow maximum space for the side rail tenons where they meet in the back leg. A nice long tenon as wide as possible is important for the side rail to leg joints as this takes the majority of the racking force when someone leans a chair back on two legs. Why do people do that? If everyone had made a chair at some time, I bet the practice would stop!
That's as far as I've gone for the moment, the garden calls, so the next step will have to wait for a rainy day!
Well, here we go...
The design is based on one by Kevin Rodel, published in FWW a year or two ago.
(as i'm sure you will have guessed, this image is distorted, it displays fine in the edit window, but not here. A footnote, I found the complicated separate window for posting pics a real pain compared to just typing the URL into the text as elsewhere)
I say based because the good Mr Rodel works in inches (whatever they are) and also, because I'm 1m88 tall and long in the leg with it, most chairs and tables are too low for comfort, so I've scaled them up a wee bit while converting to real measurements. The plan is to make 8, but I've started with just 2, 'cos if something goes drastically wrong in the early stages, I will have limited the waste of material at least. Once I have the experience of the first two, I will make the other 6 as a batch.
The first step was to plane and thickness some 45mm oak boards to 38mm. Here I must confess to error no. 1. So keen to select the straightest grain for the legs, I forgot to check the cross section and cut some from a quarter sawn board. The different grain front and side of the leg will look a bit odd I fear and is poor use of fine quarter sawn stock, but we press on. The front legs are simple straight parts, so cut on the table saw and hand planed they need no further work at this stage. The back legs I cut a bit over size on the band saw, then made up a jig/template consisting of two patterns in MDF spaced by offcuts from the legs to permit shaping with power tools.
For shaping the legs to the template, Rodel suggests a router with a bearing guided bit, but a) I don't have a guided bit long enough and, b) I do have a spindle moulder, so that's the route I took. I was surprised and delighted to find that even with some cuts a wee bit against the grain there was no tear out I guess the big cutter diameter helps, it remains essentially tangential to the work, unlike a relatively small diameter router bit.
Here comes mistake No. 2. Enthusiasm for seeing what the double curved top back rail would look like led me to the band saw and only afterwards did I remember that cutting the tenons while it was all squared up would have been a good idea. Only one of the two done thank goodness. The result is tenons cut oversize, freehand on the band saw, with predictably dreadful ragged shoulders that will require a LOT of hand fitting. It does look good though, especially after a few minutes with a spoke shave. I don't seem to be able to produce a fine hand planed finish with a spokeshave, there is always a bit of chatter at some point, but it does remove most of the marks, leaving a relatively simple sanding/scraper job (not done yet).
|Thread: Gap filling glue|
Polyurethane foams up and fills the gap OK, but the joint is not strong, the foam that effectively joins the loose parts is quite weak. Also, poly glue is degraded quite quickly by UV light. In a tight joint the light does not get to it, but in a loose joint, especially outdoors, the light will quickly (12-24 months) break down the glue.
Polyurethane looks like a simple solution, but it's not good! Resin is much better.
|Thread: Cordless finish nailers|
Thanks folks, useful information.
Seeing the ad. for the Senco at the top of the page, I have thought about getting a finish nailer for some time, but dont have pneumatics and dont plan to start.
Would be interested to hear of any direct experience with cordless nailers and any recomendations. Budget limited as I'm a hobbyist, not a professional.
|Thread: Oak Settle|
Client's budget was rather limited, I had to work on him to have it in oak and not the pine he first asked for. So... no there will not be any carving.
It is however, finally finished. If I can find enough muscled friends to lift it onto the trailer, I'll deliver it by the weekend.
This oak settle is a commission which came about when the one I had made for our kitchen was seen by some friends. This one is a little over 1m wide. Construction is mortise and tenon frames supporting floating raised panels. The frames are fitted into the side pieces with wedged tenons. All oak from the same log, using the qtr sawn stock for the floating panels and end cheeks where possible.
Finish is stain and canauba wax, not yet all done.
I'll add the final assembly pictures in a day or so.
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