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Member postings for Paul Jones 4

Here is a list of all the postings Paul Jones 4 has made in our forums. Click on a thread name to jump to the thread.

Thread: Sheet material cutting aid
09/10/2011 18:30:07

Thanks for the replies guys.

I could make one Bill, but the spring steel version is much simpler and just clips onto your belt when not in use, and it suits sizes from 0-1 inch from memory.

I had thought of the Bulldog clip idea Eric, it would probably work out cheaper too.

Unless Kev can find out some info on them and I can find one at the right price, I reckon a large bulldog clip, around 5 -6 inch wide is my best option.


Paul

08/10/2011 21:26:47

I used to have a clip, sort of like a drawing board clip only about 5" long that when cutting large sheets, 8x4, you put it onto the cut edge to help keep the 2 cut halves together. This helped in cutting the rest of the sheet. by stopping the blade becoming jammed.

I've been googling for ages now but can't find one. I must be using the wrong description.

Anyone know where to buy one from.


Paul

Thread: Router Table
07/10/2011 12:16:29
Posted by BillW on 05/10/2011 23:11:08:
 
A face mask doesn't work on me (look at my avatar)

LOL, yes I see the problem.
You need one of those Airshield masks that Simon uses

Paul
 

Thread: Clothes Hamper
07/10/2011 11:25:49

Hi Wullie

Good find. Problem is though the Lidl hampers are a bit on the small side being only 55x52x39 and 50x70x37

The one I was going to build was approx 90x52x56 high

I'll mention it to the GF and pop into Lidl on Monday to see what she thinks.


Paul

04/10/2011 15:45:44

My Girlfriend has asked me to make her a clothes hamper like this

http://www.lowescreativeideas.com/idea-library/projects/Clothes_Hamper_0108.aspx

What timber would you recommend to use for this. I will be using woodstain on the finished job so its pointless using an expensive wood.

I was thinking maybe some stripwood moulding for the laths either pine or hardwood

For the main timber pieces I thought of redwood, but I feel that maybe a bit on the soft side and may get knocked about too easily.

So maybe Sapele, Ash, Tulipwood?


Paul

Thread: Router Table
04/10/2011 14:57:35

Hi Bill

MDF is quiet easy to work with, a little on the heavy side, its just makes a lot of dust , so get yourself a suitable mask.

I say easy to work with, which it is, but just use a bit of care with the edges which can easily be damaged if knocked, and when screwing into edges unless using thin screws its best to pre-drill as the fibres tend to split open.

Just do a few practice runs with a cut-off and some screws of various sizes and you will know in the future whether to pre-drill or not.

Yes, that is a chicken, lol

We have 5 of them. Some days we give them free range to roam the garden, and that day was one of them.


I've added some chicken Coop pics to my photos


Paul

03/10/2011 13:40:56

A while back I mentioned I was building myself a router table. Thought I'd show you how I've been getting on.

This is the table in its stored position with its worktop cover which I can use to store things on while protecting the table top.

12 images are shown in my Router Table album.

Cupboard construction is 18mm MDF with redwood legs. These are screwed together with confirmat screws. I did it this way as I made the router table at my house in my 8x6 foot shed then built it in its final home in my GF's garage which is a bit bigger at 18x10 feet.

The table top was made by gluing together 2 pieces of 18mm MDF and 1 off 9mm MDF piece. The table edging was made from 44x22 Oak timber.

I decided not to put a laminate top on, as at the moment I am using the table with my 1/4"/8mm Trend T5 router. I don't know which 1/2" router I will be getting in the future, so I can always add the laminate later or even just make a new top if I have too.

I still have some feather boards and a cross cut sled to make before it is finally completed.


Paul




Thread: Dowel Jig
30/09/2011 11:09:25
Oops
Typo, what I meant was

Back to the size, I'm thinking of the 8mm version as I can't really see any call for the 10mm version.

Cheapest place I've found these being sold is on Amazon, so have just placed my order.



Paul


Thread: Pocket Hole Jig
29/09/2011 23:21:16

Well after looking into the pocket hole jig a bit deeper I've decided that the cost of ownership is to great to justify buying one, when I can get the same results by using dowels.

The money saved by not buying one, together with the special clamps to make things easier and all the different sized screws for both soft and hard woods I can put towards a new Sip 10" band saw.

In fact when you add it all up it almost pays for one.

Paul

29/09/2011 22:19:06

Yes, i'm thinking of getting the Kreg pocket hole jig aswell

Anyone use one, again good or bad?


Paul

Thread: Dowel Jig
29/09/2011 22:16:11

I'm considering purchasing the Joint Genie dowelling jig.

I don't think I'd be using the 6mm size, so that just leaves the 8 or 10mm version.

Does anyone here use this jig, and if so, how do they find it, good / bad?

Back to the size, I'm thinking of the 10mm version as I can't really see any call for the 8mm version.

What do others think on this.


Paul


Thread: air filters
17/09/2011 20:38:23

Hi Sad Sam

Looking at this website, I'm assuming this is the filter

http://www.powertooldirect.co.uk/mc750_microclene_dust_air_cleane-p-75350.html

the filter will filter 750 cubic metres of air per hour, providing 10 air changes per hour to a 75 cubic metre workspace.

Your workshop is approx 60 cubic metres so should be fine.


Paul

Thread: Princess Beatrice Royal Wedding Fascinator Chair
10/09/2011 22:07:36

Thanks for that link Derek.

I've just spent a few hours this afternoon watching all 13 videos.

Sam looked to be a fascinating character, and watching him make that chair, basically from memory and just eyeing up everything was just brilliant.


Thread: NVR Switch
04/09/2011 13:35:30

Hi Bill, Simon

I checked my router manual this morning, Trend T5, and the router is double insulated and only uses 2 wires with no earth.

My brother in law had roll of 1.5mm2 3 core flex which he has given me, so I will be wiring up the router as I mentioned, the router would plug into a socket wired into terminals 2&4 on the NVR. Terminals 1&3 would be wired to a plug to fit into the vacuum.


Thanks Paul

03/09/2011 19:02:06
I have a NVR Switch which I am going to fit to my router table.



The switch is a Axminster one and the instructions say that no earthing is required. The switch uses push on terminals, with mains supply in on terminals 1 and 3 and power out on terminals 2 and 4.



I wish to use my table in conjunction with my wet and dry vacuum which accepts a tool up to 2.2Kw that can be plugged into a onboard socket. This allows the vacuum to automatically start when the tool is switched on.



I need to purchase some cable to do this.



Am I correct that I can purchase some 2 core cable to do this as no earthing is required?



The router would plug into a socket wired into terminals 2&4 on the NVR. Terminals 1&3 would be wired to a plug to fit into the vacuum.







Regards Paul

Edited By Paul Jones 4 on 03/09/2011 19:04:09

Thread: A Square Square
02/09/2011 18:36:59

Thanks for your replies, Ron and Bill.

I've been away for a couple of days but I managed to solve my problem.

Regards the mitre gauge, no I do not own one at the moment. Track has been fitted to my table top though.

The way I did it in the end.

I have an old machinists square which is both accurate on the outside and inside faces. I clamped a straight edge across my table top and using the machinists square as a sled, I held my roughly cut lengths of MDF against the square and pushing against my straight edge I trimmed an edge of the MDF. Once this was done I could then use that face as a datum face and trim the other side to suit.

I know cutting a piece of MDF into a square seems such a simple task, but when you don't have anything, like a mitre gauge or anything else with a 90 degree face to help you achieve this, its harder than you think.


Cheers Paul


29/08/2011 22:59:51

A bit of a silly question really, but how do I make a square square?

I'm building a fence for my router table. I have made the top and have used it to trim down some MDF to 100mm wide so that 2 faces are parallel to each other. I now need to cut of some pieces from this and make some squares, which will be used to keep the fence faces square to each other.

Items K on this drawing

http://americanwoodworker.com/cfs-filesystemfile.ashx/__key/CommunityServer.Blogs.Components.WeblogFiles/projects/Cabinet-Makr-R-Table_5F00_fig-c.jpg

Like I said, a silly question, but whats the best way to do this if I have nothing else with a square face to work from.

Do I just keep trimming with the router until I get a square edge?


Paul

Edited By Paul Jones 4 on 29/08/2011 23:23:00

Thread: Digital Issues
11/12/2010 21:37:17

Thanks for the update Darren


Paul

Thread: Formica or similar
11/12/2010 13:03:35
Posted by Dominic Gibbens on 11/12/2010 
 
When the weather gets warmer I am going to do the same. I have bought a piece of 12mm Tufnol ,600 x 600 from Direct Plastics which cost about £22.00, you could of course buy a smaller size or thiner for less or just buy enough to make an insert. .I intended to cut this down to 600 X 400
 
It is my intention to cut a hole for the router in a piece of MDF glue the Tufnol to it and then mount the router direct to the tufnol.I thought I would cut a 25 or 30 mm hole for the cutters.This would all be mounted on a ply base.
 
Can anyone think where this could go wrong.I did think that if I ever wanted to use a large cutter I would have to make a new  hole and then make an insert but that would be for the future.
 
Dominic 

--------------------------------------------

Hi Dominic

I've just checked out Direct Plastics, their prices aren't to bad.
Which grade of Tufnol did you choose, the 'Whale' version?

At the moment my table top will be 914 x 650 constructed from 1 x 9 and 2 x 18 mdf boards glued together, with an aperture in the 18 mdf boards to allow the router to bolt onto the 9 mm mdf. 

My design will be a hinged top. This way I can easily add a Formica or Tufnol top of  1.5 or 2mm thk afterwards quite easily if I feel it is necessary.

The base, fence and top of my table will be similar to this design, but without the two side tracks, and will have  castors fitted


and the fence and top will also incorporate the hinged and pivot design based on this



 

Paul

Edited By Paul Jones 4 on 11/12/2010 13:05:44

11/12/2010 12:16:57
Posted by dennis wake on 11/12/2010 04:06:33:
hi Paul
 i have found this >>company<< in west bromwich you may want to contact.
  dennis

 

Hi DEnnis


I've have seen this company on the web, though its based in West Sussex not West Bromwich.


Any others people use?


Payul

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