Here is a list of all the postings Paul Jones 4 has made in our forums. Click on a thread name to jump to the thread.
|Thread: Sheet material cutting aid|
Thanks for the replies guys.
I could make one Bill, but the spring steel version is much simpler and just clips onto your belt when not in use, and it suits sizes from 0-1 inch from memory.
I had thought of the Bulldog clip idea Eric, it would probably work out cheaper too.
Unless Kev can find out some info on them and I can find one at the right price, I reckon a large bulldog clip, around 5 -6 inch wide is my best option.
I used to have a clip, sort of like a drawing board clip only about 5" long that when cutting large sheets, 8x4, you put it onto the cut edge to help keep the 2 cut halves together. This helped in cutting the rest of the sheet. by stopping the blade becoming jammed.
I've been googling for ages now but can't find one. I must be using the wrong description.
Anyone know where to buy one from.
|Thread: Router Table|
|Thread: Clothes Hamper|
Good find. Problem is though the Lidl hampers are a bit on the small side being only 55x52x39 and 50x70x37
The one I was going to build was approx 90x52x56 high
I'll mention it to the GF and pop into Lidl on Monday to see what she thinks.
My Girlfriend has asked me to make her a clothes hamper like this
What timber would you recommend to use for this. I will be using woodstain on the finished job so its pointless using an expensive wood.
I was thinking maybe some stripwood moulding for the laths either pine or hardwood
For the main timber pieces I thought of redwood, but I feel that maybe a bit on the soft side and may get knocked about too easily.
So maybe Sapele, Ash, Tulipwood?
|Thread: Router Table|
MDF is quiet easy to work with, a little on the heavy side, its just makes a lot of dust , so get yourself a suitable mask.
I say easy to work with, which it is, but just use a bit of care with the edges which can easily be damaged if knocked, and when screwing into edges unless using thin screws its best to pre-drill as the fibres tend to split open.
Just do a few practice runs with a cut-off and some screws of various sizes and you will know in the future whether to pre-drill or not.
Yes, that is a chicken, lol
We have 5 of them. Some days we give them free range to roam the garden, and that day was one of them.
I've added some chicken Coop pics to my photos
A while back I mentioned I was building myself a router table. Thought I'd show you how I've been getting on.
This is the table in its stored position with its worktop cover which I can use to store things on while protecting the table top.
12 images are shown in my Router Table album.
Cupboard construction is 18mm MDF with redwood legs. These are screwed together with confirmat screws. I did it this way as I made the router table at my house in my 8x6 foot shed then built it in its final home in my GF's garage which is a bit bigger at 18x10 feet.
The table top was made by gluing together 2 pieces of 18mm MDF and 1 off 9mm MDF piece. The table edging was made from 44x22 Oak timber.
I decided not to put a laminate top on, as at the moment I am using the table with my 1/4"/8mm Trend T5 router. I don't know which 1/2" router I will be getting in the future, so I can always add the laminate later or even just make a new top if I have too.
I still have some feather boards and a cross cut sled to make before it is finally completed.
|Thread: Dowel Jig|
|Thread: Pocket Hole Jig|
Well after looking into the pocket hole jig a bit deeper I've decided that the cost of ownership is to great to justify buying one, when I can get the same results by using dowels.
The money saved by not buying one, together with the special clamps to make things easier and all the different sized screws for both soft and hard woods I can put towards a new Sip 10" band saw.
In fact when you add it all up it almost pays for one.
Yes, i'm thinking of getting the Kreg pocket hole jig aswell
Anyone use one, again good or bad?
|Thread: Dowel Jig|
I'm considering purchasing the Joint Genie dowelling jig.
I don't think I'd be using the 6mm size, so that just leaves the 8 or 10mm version.
Does anyone here use this jig, and if so, how do they find it, good / bad?
Back to the size, I'm thinking of the 10mm version as I can't really see any call for the 8mm version.
What do others think on this.
|Thread: air filters|
Hi Sad Sam
Looking at this website, I'm assuming this is the filter
the filter will filter 750 cubic metres of air per hour, providing 10 air changes per hour to a 75 cubic metre workspace.
Your workshop is approx 60 cubic metres so should be fine.
|Thread: Princess Beatrice Royal Wedding Fascinator Chair|
Thanks for that link Derek.
I've just spent a few hours this afternoon watching all 13 videos.
Sam looked to be a fascinating character, and watching him make that chair, basically from memory and just eyeing up everything was just brilliant.
|Thread: NVR Switch|
Hi Bill, Simon
I checked my router manual this morning, Trend T5, and the router is double insulated and only uses 2 wires with no earth.
My brother in law had roll of 1.5mm2 3 core flex which he has given me, so I will be wiring up the router as I mentioned, the router would plug into a socket wired into terminals 2&4 on the NVR. Terminals 1&3 would be wired to a plug to fit into the vacuum.
|I have a NVR Switch which I am going to fit to my router table. |
The switch is a Axminster one and the instructions say that no earthing is required. The switch uses push on terminals, with mains supply in on terminals 1 and 3 and power out on terminals 2 and 4.
I wish to use my table in conjunction with my wet and dry vacuum which accepts a tool up to 2.2Kw that can be plugged into a onboard socket. This allows the vacuum to automatically start when the tool is switched on.
I need to purchase some cable to do this.
Am I correct that I can purchase some 2 core cable to do this as no earthing is required?
The router would plug into a socket wired into terminals 2&4 on the NVR. Terminals 1&3 would be wired to a plug to fit into the vacuum.
Edited By Paul Jones 4 on 03/09/2011 19:04:09
|Thread: A Square Square|
Thanks for your replies, Ron and Bill.
I've been away for a couple of days but I managed to solve my problem.
Regards the mitre gauge, no I do not own one at the moment. Track has been fitted to my table top though.
The way I did it in the end.
I have an old machinists square which is both accurate on the outside and inside faces. I clamped a straight edge across my table top and using the machinists square as a sled, I held my roughly cut lengths of MDF against the square and pushing against my straight edge I trimmed an edge of the MDF. Once this was done I could then use that face as a datum face and trim the other side to suit.
I know cutting a piece of MDF into a square seems such a simple task, but when you don't have anything, like a mitre gauge or anything else with a 90 degree face to help you achieve this, its harder than you think.
A bit of a silly question really, but how do I make a square square?
I'm building a fence for my router table. I have made the top and have used it to trim down some MDF to 100mm wide so that 2 faces are parallel to each other. I now need to cut of some pieces from this and make some squares, which will be used to keep the fence faces square to each other.
Items K on this drawing
Like I said, a silly question, but whats the best way to do this if I have nothing else with a square face to work from.
Do I just keep trimming with the router until I get a square edge?
Edited By Paul Jones 4 on 29/08/2011 23:23:00
|Thread: Digital Issues|
Thanks for the update Darren
|Thread: Formica or similar|
Edited By Paul Jones 4 on 11/12/2010 13:05:44
I've have seen this company on the web, though its based in West Sussex not West Bromwich.
Any others people use?
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