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Member postings for Ian03

Here is a list of all the postings Ian03 has made in our forums. Click on a thread name to jump to the thread.

Thread: Best bandsaw blades
17/04/2008 07:46:00

Francis - sorry to hear that you weren't happy with the blades from Dragon Saws, if you would have got in touch with me (I work for them) then I could have sorted it out for you.

You can't really compare a 3tpi and 6tpi blade though as they are designed for different types of cutting - a 3tpi will be noisier than a 6tpi especially on thin stock because it's a courser blade. The 3 tpi is designed for fast cutting of thick timber, which a 6tpi won't do and a 6tpi is a great general purpose blade but you can't use a 3tpi for the same type of cutting that a 6tpi will do.

The most important factor with bandsaw blades is to pick the right width and tooth pitch blade for the type of cutting that you are doing. The type of blade needed can differ from job to job but the right width and tooth pitch blade will make a huge difference to the way the machine performs.

It's not worth sharpening bandsaws as the teeth are hardened (similar to hard point hand saws) so once you grind them to sharpen them, you alter the hardness of the teeth and can make the teeth brittle. Even though the blade will feel sharp after being ground they don't keep their edge long enough to be of any use. The only time that I would ever sharpen a bandsaw is if I was cutting softwood and then only as a last resort.

12" Re-saws are totally different to narrow bandsaws as they are swage set or stellite tipped and can be re-sharpened many times (after being swaged, side beveled and benched in the case of swaged blades) - time served Saw Doctor here as well

If you had come back to us then as a supplier we would have happily tried to sort out any problems with the blade and advise you if you were using the correct blade for the job.

Ian

17/04/2008 07:46:00

Francis - sorry to hear that you weren't happy with the blades from Dragon Saws, if you would have got in touch with me (I work for them) then I could have sorted it out for you.

You can't really compare a 3tpi and 6tpi blade though as they are designed for different types of cutting - a 3tpi will be noisier than a 6tpi especially on thin stock because it's a courser blade. The 3 tpi is designed for fast cutting of thick timber, which a 6tpi won't do and a 6tpi is a great general purpose blade but you can't use a 3tpi for the same type of cutting that a 6tpi will do.

The most important factor with bandsaw blades is to pick the right width and tooth pitch blade for the type of cutting that you are doing. The type of blade needed can differ from job to job but the right width and tooth pitch blade will make a huge difference to the way the machine performs.

It's not worth sharpening bandsaws as the teeth are hardened (similar to hard point hand saws) so once you grind them to sharpen them, you alter the hardness of the teeth and can make the teeth brittle. Even though the blade will feel sharp after being ground they don't keep their edge long enough to be of any use. The only time that I would ever sharpen a bandsaw is if I was cutting softwood and then only as a last resort.

12" Re-saws are totally different to narrow bandsaws as they are swage set or stellite tipped and can be re-sharpened many times (after being swaged, side beveled and benched in the case of swaged blades) - time served Saw Doctor here as well

If you had come back to us then as a supplier we would have happily tried to sort out any problems with the blade and advise you if you were using the correct blade for the job.

Ian

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