Here is a list of all the postings Mike Jordan has made in our forums. Click on a thread name to jump to the thread.
|Thread: How do I reinforce a partition wall so I can connect to it.|
I see no reason why bolts with nylock nuts and washers should work loose. The only addition to your plan that comes to mind is the inclusion of a horizontal rail on the back face of the stud wall to further spread the load.
If this is a normal studded wall it will have vertical studs (approximately 75 X 50mm) faced on both sides with 12 mm plaster board. The horizontal distance between the studs will vary according to the age of the construction, they are spaced to match the width of the plaster board sheets. Typically 400 to 600 mm apart .
The handrail brackets could be screwed directly into each stud, finding the stud locations can be done by listening to the sound while tapping with a hammer, using a stud detector, or drilling small holes in the plaster board until you find the first stud.
Ifyou are unlucky the wall may be made with partition boarding which usually consists of two sheets of plaster board with cardboard egg box type centre. iIts unlikely that this will support a handrail without reinforcement.
|Thread: What sort of glue is likely to be used to join these wood pieces together?|
Thanks Derek, now the dog can see the rabbit!. Michael, Welcome, I thnk it's normally an epoxy type glue with radio frequency setting facilities to allow a continuous process to be used to ensure that not a scrap of material is wasted. The header joints you have indicated are normally a multi finger joint to solve the problem of end grain to end grain gluing. You see this method used on work tops and other large slabs of timber where it must be more stable than large pieces of timber, and, as I said nothing goes to waste. It's not a process that ordinary woodworkers like me carry out since the automated gear to do the work must be very expensive.
I've seen slabs of pine made in this way being sold by timber merchants and DIY outlets.
Edited By Mike Jordan on 22/01/2019 11:28:29
Your link refuses to open.
|Thread: Tea Lights|
Oh the joy of Xmas ! Once more I see tan article urging woodworkers to hand out home fire starter kits. Why not give your friends and relatives a hand made tea light holder for Xmas ? This sort of unimaginative rubbish is trotted out far to regularly. The soap operas seem to need to kill off a character or two as part of the seasonal quest for viewing figures but there is no excuse for real families joining in.
Just think it through, excited children, flammable packaging, lots of decorations,and the odd glass of wine. All that's needed is a few naked flames to complete the setting for a domestic tragedy. Please don't even think about it. There is nothing festive about fires!
I'm sorry to see that you are not actively involved these days in the workshop but what was it that got you there in the first place? I think that many of us started after enjoying the workshop experience at secondary school, my liking for making furniture came from the fact that I was skint when newly married and needed to furnish the house. Since I already had the tools and training the work was easier for me than for others. It also seems to me that the magazines of the day featured more exciting projects than today, I remember one publication building a plywood cabin cruiser called the"Woodwych" I think. These had a brief flurry of interest and were sold as a kit of parts by the local DIY shop. No I didn't have the spare cash to have a go but it did start my interest in canals.
This has been mentioned before in different ways, there can be no doubt that the lack of wood and metalworking classes in secondary education is reducing the number of people who are introduced to the hobby of making things. There seems to be a dearth of staff able to teach the subjects and a subsequent fall in the number of school leavers even considering taking up an apprenticeship. Employers seem to be happy to recruit from other countries rather than train a future workforce. Even if people were trained the demand for manufactured items is being satisfied by imports from China.
There is little to encourage anyone to make items of furniture for instance when the material costs are patently higher than the ready made item in the shop window. Schools are scrapping workshops and shifting to art and textiles as creative subjects, again the shops are full of imported goods at low prices so no hope of employment there! I have been both a professional and hobby woodworker from age twelve and still enjoy the hobby but if I wish to profit from my work it's necessary to work in a specialist area, mine is the world of boating where quality work is normal and has to be paid for.
The regrettable decline in interest is highlighted by the falling circulation of woodworking magazines, the desperate measure of scrapping titles or creating new ones seems to me to be doomed to fail, there is far to much free content on the net to allow any publisher to sell enough copies to arrest the decline, the poor quality of some of the content can't be helping. In short there are a number of forums and a shrinking level of involvement. I think I might buy a mobile phone and spend my waking hours staring at it!
|Thread: This months GW|
I think that magazines of all kinds are having a hard time, they are relatively expensive and seem to contain lower quality material, repeat articles, etc. Couple this to the fact that wood and metalwork classes in schools have been largely replaced with textiles and art of various kinds,workshops having been scrapped as no longer needed.
With no new blood being introduced to the hobby and the ready availability of information and how to do it articles on the Internet free of charge, the specialist magazines will probably follow the same downward spiral as the newspapers.
The practice of importing skilled workers rather than training apprentices in the trades is already causing obvious problems. Spurious training courses and imaginary "apprenticeships" abound. Perhaps the journalists can be retrained as woodworkers, according to the adverts most trades can be mastered in 6 weeks.
|Thread: Machining timber question[s]|
The problem of chippings marking the planed surface is common when using softer materials like pine but not in my experience a problem with oak. The resin in pine makes the chipping stick to the feed rollers and other areas, making the problem worse. A clean out feed roller and good extraction will help.
If the oak is fresh from the suppliers, the drying process may have left tension in the material, removing to much material from one face can cause the stock to bend in its length. The secret is to remove material from each face and monitor the shape after each pass through the planer.
|Thread: Finishing Birch Plywood advice|
I have found that the best way to get a good internal quality finish is - Apply a coat of cellulose sanding sealer ( this is very strong smelling but dries in a few minutes. ONLY TO BE USED OUTSIDE IN FRESH AIR)
Follow with two coats of interior clear varnish after sanding lightly. Exterior quality varnish tends to yellow more and continue over time because of the oil content.
|Thread: Acorn Smoothing Plane|
I remember Acorn tools being on sale in the 1960s they were reputed to be of a slightly lower quality than the big names but with no obvious major difference in appearance. The price sounds good and the pics show a tool which should clean up nicely. A nice souvenir of your holiday!
|Thread: Water Mill Pics|
Hi Ron. No that's the country residence of a very elderly moggy. He's down to his last few teeth so not much of an attack risk.
Thanks Derek. It was a make it up as you go job so there are no plans of any kind. It started out as a promise to make a waterwheel and gathered a few embellishments along the way. There is a small solar panel on the back left corner which lights up the inside after dark, it's given everybody a few laughs and does work surprisingly well. The axle of the wheel extends right through the building and a plastic cam works the figures. It still lacks a few finishing touches but I will sort it during the winter when I take it in out of the weather.
In a previous post I said that all my pics had disapeared, glad to say i was wrong so here are some.
Wasted mega man hours making this - one figure irons constantly while drinking tea while the other pushes the same piece of timber through a machine all day. All driven by the wheel.
If time ever allows the woodworker may get a rocking chair instead.
Now I intend to look at posting a video!
Edited By Mike Jordan on 25/07/2016 12:29:03
|Thread: Stanley Plane chip breaker re-truing|
Hi John. I think the sides of the stone are a very good idea. Mike
All my album photos vanished some time ago so i thought I would try and rise to the challenge.
nb the bandsaw is not a vital part of this process.
I always polish the front edge of the breaker/cap iron to make it work smoothly.
Edited By Mike Jordan on 17/07/2016 10:44:07
You need to have the front edge of the chip breaker a perfect fit right across the width of the blade. You can test the fit by holding the two parts up to the light and looking through the raised section of the chip breaker, no light should be visible if you have it right. I have found that you can flatten the chip breaker mating face by using a flat oilstone, resting the mating face on the oilstone with the other end running on the bench or a piece of scrap material alongside the oilstone at a lower level. It takes careful work to do it and the stone must be dead flat.
The stay set cap iron was originally intended to allow honing of the cutter without resetting the position of the cap iron, just a small piece of the cap iron lifts off when the wedge is released. The drawback is that when removing the burr after honing you need to be careful not to rub the remaining piece of cap iron on the oilstone. They seem to work very well as a cap iron but I am unconvinced about any real time saving in use.
I've slipped from one term to any other above - cap iron and chip breaker are names for the same thing.
If this all reads like a foreign language, please sing out and I will try and post a photo.
|Thread: Good Woodworking wants your help!|
I thought we covered this some weeks back with Tegan! In short, magazines are expensive, no one wants to pay for blatant repeats of articles, and if you don't pay the writers you won't get quality material to use. If it's not a unique design or something new, it's already on the net with a video showing how it's done. The furniture I formerly made is now imported from China at unachievable prices so perhaps no one can be bothered to make their own.
|Thread: Building Our Own Shepherd Hut|
I suggest you have a good look at the commercial versions and pick up a few ideas. They seem to vary in construction over a wide range. I've seen them clad with cedar boarding, match boarding, and wriggly tin with a plastic finish. I don't think you should worry about spending on materials! The ready made versions I looked at were priced from £17,000 to £25,000 seems a lot for a rather posh garden shed on wheels.
|Thread: Thickness / Planer problem|
Hi Mike. All the thickness planers I have seen have been fitted with adjustable tension springs which pull the rollers down onto the timber. These are viewed from the underside and have a pair of locking nuts to allow the tension to be adjusted. My Sedgewick makes the marks you mention, particularly in softwood but they need only about half a mill off to remove them. It sounds as if your machines rollers are a little to tight. If the rollers are not adjustable I suggest that you use a trial piece to set the thickness before passing your material through at finished size.
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