Here is a list of all the postings Mike Jordan has made in our forums. Click on a thread name to jump to the thread.
|Thread: Valet Oak (Herrendiener Eiche), Wooden Valet Stand (Holz Stummer Diener)|
Is no one monitoring this site??
|Thread: Stable door by Mike Jordan|
sorry about the delay in responding, I don't look at the site very often. As I'm sure you have worked out it just needs an increase in the clearance to make the joint work. A number of my articles seem to have suffered from alterations to the drawings and also some of the text. A sash window drawing was altered in such a way that it would not have been possible to make!
Like a number of other writers I've given up woodworking magazines following a severe pay cut and a refusal to pay for repeat use of articles. Sadly they all seem to cost to much and feature to many adverts. I think it's a case of journalists playing at being woodworkers rather than the other way round.
|Thread: Larch wood side gate|
No don't glue either joint, the boards will need to expand and contract with changes in moisture levels. If you glue the vertical boards into one large slab it will split if it contracts or jam in the frame if it expands. It is normal to leave a small gap between the boards to allow for expansion. Using a coin as a gauge is ideal.
Normal practice is to use two screws at each end of the ledges through into the side boards. This stops repeated slamming from pulling out the nails.
It's most important that you brace the gate correctly, the braces need to to run from the bottom on the hinge side to the top on the clapping (handle) side.
Best of luck with the project.
|Thread: record bandsaw|
There is a chance that someone will recognise this as a part common to other makes and will be able to help.
From the look of the damage it may be that the table can be locked in the horizontal position so that use for square cuts is possible. The only other method I can think of is to make up a right angle steel plate to replace the part. This again would only serve for right angle cuts.ŵŵ
Scot & Sargeant and Yandles both claim to have spares. Why not post a photo of the part? Someone may have an idea to help.
Many years back I purchased a BS500 with a five year guarantee. The cast table was aupported on a miserable litte pressed steel quadrant which had teeth which stripped very soon. The guarantee was great, they sent a cast alloy replacement which is OK to this day. Perhaps there is an updated version for the machine you have.
If I'd looked carefully before buying I would have rejected the machine as Chinese rubbish, but as I say they followed through on th five year promise and sent parts out instantly.
|Thread: Campervan Project|
If this contributor is being paid in the same way as the rest of us then it's no wonder no real effort is being put in!
A savage cut back in page rates which occurred some time back is the root of the problem.. Repeated use of old articles and lack of anything new or interesting is probably all you are going to get for the subscriptions.
|Thread: Drilling through hard wood|
Ive never heard of such a rule Robert. In truth it hadn't occurred to me that drilling a 14 mm hole through a 25 mm dowel removed such a huge percentage of the material, I was concentrating on the need to avoid break out of the edges of the hole
Upon reflection this design must have a serious fault. If you drill a 14mm hole through a25mm dowel you will be left with a small crescent of material at each side, this will only be 5.5 mm at the thickest point and taper to nothing in a few degrees.
|Thread: Campervan Project|
Teapgan -The problem must be related to paying peanuts.!
|Thread: Drilling through hard wood|
There is a method that would work. If drilling a free hand hole in a flat surface a guide block can be made to keep the hole at 90 degrees to the surface. The guide block needs to be drilled by a drill press or mortiser before being held on the surface to guide the hand held drill. In your case I suggest that the block will need a vee groove in the bottom face to ensure that it locates with the round dowel. All you need now is a friend with a drill press!
We are working in the dark but still trying to help! If these are corner posts is it really sensible to drill right through.
The end grain will show on the surface surely. A brief discription of th job in hand might help.
Now there is something I have never done!
my suggestion is that you run a small drill ( say 2mm) right through the 25mm dowel and then drill from both sides to prevent tear out. I think a Forster bit might be the best bet to get a clean edged hole.
|Thread: How do I reinforce a partition wall so I can connect to it.|
I see no reason why bolts with nylock nuts and washers should work loose. The only addition to your plan that comes to mind is the inclusion of a horizontal rail on the back face of the stud wall to further spread the load.
If this is a normal studded wall it will have vertical studs (approximately 75 X 50mm) faced on both sides with 12 mm plaster board. The horizontal distance between the studs will vary according to the age of the construction, they are spaced to match the width of the plaster board sheets. Typically 400 to 600 mm apart .
The handrail brackets could be screwed directly into each stud, finding the stud locations can be done by listening to the sound while tapping with a hammer, using a stud detector, or drilling small holes in the plaster board until you find the first stud.
Ifyou are unlucky the wall may be made with partition boarding which usually consists of two sheets of plaster board with cardboard egg box type centre. iIts unlikely that this will support a handrail without reinforcement.
|Thread: What sort of glue is likely to be used to join these wood pieces together?|
Thanks Derek, now the dog can see the rabbit!. Michael, Welcome, I thnk it's normally an epoxy type glue with radio frequency setting facilities to allow a continuous process to be used to ensure that not a scrap of material is wasted. The header joints you have indicated are normally a multi finger joint to solve the problem of end grain to end grain gluing. You see this method used on work tops and other large slabs of timber where it must be more stable than large pieces of timber, and, as I said nothing goes to waste. It's not a process that ordinary woodworkers like me carry out since the automated gear to do the work must be very expensive.
I've seen slabs of pine made in this way being sold by timber merchants and DIY outlets.
Edited By Mike Jordan on 22/01/2019 11:28:29
Your link refuses to open.
|Thread: Tea Lights|
Oh the joy of Xmas ! Once more I see tan article urging woodworkers to hand out home fire starter kits. Why not give your friends and relatives a hand made tea light holder for Xmas ? This sort of unimaginative rubbish is trotted out far to regularly. The soap operas seem to need to kill off a character or two as part of the seasonal quest for viewing figures but there is no excuse for real families joining in.
Just think it through, excited children, flammable packaging, lots of decorations,and the odd glass of wine. All that's needed is a few naked flames to complete the setting for a domestic tragedy. Please don't even think about it. There is nothing festive about fires!
I'm sorry to see that you are not actively involved these days in the workshop but what was it that got you there in the first place? I think that many of us started after enjoying the workshop experience at secondary school, my liking for making furniture came from the fact that I was skint when newly married and needed to furnish the house. Since I already had the tools and training the work was easier for me than for others. It also seems to me that the magazines of the day featured more exciting projects than today, I remember one publication building a plywood cabin cruiser called the"Woodwych" I think. These had a brief flurry of interest and were sold as a kit of parts by the local DIY shop. No I didn't have the spare cash to have a go but it did start my interest in canals.
This has been mentioned before in different ways, there can be no doubt that the lack of wood and metalworking classes in secondary education is reducing the number of people who are introduced to the hobby of making things. There seems to be a dearth of staff able to teach the subjects and a subsequent fall in the number of school leavers even considering taking up an apprenticeship. Employers seem to be happy to recruit from other countries rather than train a future workforce. Even if people were trained the demand for manufactured items is being satisfied by imports from China.
There is little to encourage anyone to make items of furniture for instance when the material costs are patently higher than the ready made item in the shop window. Schools are scrapping workshops and shifting to art and textiles as creative subjects, again the shops are full of imported goods at low prices so no hope of employment there! I have been both a professional and hobby woodworker from age twelve and still enjoy the hobby but if I wish to profit from my work it's necessary to work in a specialist area, mine is the world of boating where quality work is normal and has to be paid for.
The regrettable decline in interest is highlighted by the falling circulation of woodworking magazines, the desperate measure of scrapping titles or creating new ones seems to me to be doomed to fail, there is far to much free content on the net to allow any publisher to sell enough copies to arrest the decline, the poor quality of some of the content can't be helping. In short there are a number of forums and a shrinking level of involvement. I think I might buy a mobile phone and spend my waking hours staring at it!
Want the latest issue of The Woodworker & Good Woodworking? Use our magazine locator links to find your nearest stockist!
We're always happy to hear from you, so feel free to get in touch!