Here is a list of all the postings mickthetree has made in our forums. Click on a thread name to jump to the thread.
|Thread: Flattening Long Planes|
Thats my number 7 on the float glass. It does travel over the ends, but to be honest its done a perfectly good enough job of it. Maybe a slightly longer piece would be a tiny bit easier to control.
I've mounted it to a sheet of 18mm oak faced MDF. Part of a stack of off-cuts I was given which currently line my loft ceiling
It is 10mm thick 400mm wide and 700mm long and as you can see fits 3 strips of 12mm wide abbrasive on.
It was cut from a larger sheet and I got it cut down as I didnt think I'd have room for it, but I could have got it longer really. £15 incuding getting the corners very slightly chamfered. Just a regular local glass supplier. Coul dhave got 300mm wide by 900mm long for the same price I guess.
My number 7 is a fairly new one although second hand and was a bit of a mess, but after an hours work on the float glass it now takes a heck of a fine shaving and is square for use on my shooting board.The back of the mouth is perfectly straight now, but only goes out of alignment if the frog is removed.
I'm now using the setup with my veritas MkII guide to regrind a load of old chisels including that 11/4 sorby in the pic.
Very fast on the 80 grit so I take it slowly.
Edited By mickthetree on 09/04/2009 15:12:18
I recently fettled the sole of my number 7 using some float glass and some rolls of abrasive I bought from ebay. I since noticed that workshop heaven also supply rolls of abrasive and knowing them they will be good quality.
I too had a bump right behind the mouth of the plane. Interestingly it only appeared when the frog screw above it was tightened. This seemed to warp the plane sole. ( I wasnt over tightening it either).
Since fettling the sole, the bump has gone but when the frog is removed, the bump turns into a recess (as you would expect).
I also had a small amount of twist in the sole of this one and the sides were all over the place.
Started in 80grit and progressed to 220 and its all smooth and flat now and takes a heck of a fine shaving!!
I got a lump of float glass form my local glass merchant for 15 quid (with the edges rounded ever so slightly to make it a tad safer)
I mount the strips of abrasive as close to the edge as possible and I have also used this to very quickly flatten the backs of some large old chisels I acquired.
I take it slow with those so as not to build up any heat but its super quick.
anyway, you may have already resolved this now, but thats my tuppence worth.
|Thread: sourcing screws|
That is very kind of you but I'm going to have to get the floor screwed down this weekend (her in doors is on about it )
I need just over 300.
So I think I'm going to have to see if I can sweet talk the hardware shop.
It was them that told me I should go to screwfix unless I just need a few as they are expensive for buying in bulk. Nice of them to say that though.
Thanks again for the offer
Very much appreciated.
I'm after size 10 x 1 1/4 steel slotted screws to screw my new (old reclaimed) floorboards down with.
My local hardware shop does them but they are a tad expensive from there. I support them as much as I can but I need to find a source for these.
Screwfix and bandq do lots of flashy zinc plated ultra fast screwing wiz bang screws, but dont seem to do plane old steel screws.
|Thread: Waxing a dining room table|
Thanks for your advice. I have planed up a spare piece and given it some wax. ITs just the look I'm after. I've read about raising the grain before but in this instance on a rstic table, I think a slightly rougher finish is what we are after. (by we I mean she) .
Thanks for the suggestions. I'll post some shots when I'm done.
great, thanks for clearing that up Ben.I was a bit concerned that it wouldnt have anything to grab onto. Not used wax before. I'll post some more shots before and after.
I have just finished leveling my dining room table top and plan on giving the whole thing a wax finish. Possibly antique pine.
My trusty number 7 has left a very clean and flat, almost glass like surface. Is this going to be any good for waxing? or does wax need more of a sanded (rougher) finish so it has something to grab hold of? Should I go over it with my belt sander?
|Thread: Pic 36|
haha thanks all, I'll bear all of your comments in mind. I'll remember that steve, incase I ever make one for someone else
I'll start another thread in the finishing section on waxing the table.
|Great, thanks Mike.|
Hi All. Finally glued drilled and doweled up my table.
Pleased with it and its as solid as a rock, albeit a little high!
Well it seems it anyway. what should the finished height of a standard dining table be? I think I checked a friends benches and they were 18" high.
|Thread: Pitch Pine|
Thanks for the info. Honduras pitch pine.The pew I'm told was from when the church was rebuilt in 1865 and the door is from a 1920s house. Cant believe they were both going to the tip!!
Must have been a big bandsaw!! Theres a reclaimation place near here that has a great big bandsaw. They cut me some 2"x11" planks from some old beam.
Hi George, thanks for the info. the door is in pieces now and I'm going to strip the paint and resaw it at some point. Dont have a bandsaw at the mo so it will have to wait a while longer.
|Thread: pic 11|
This is the before. Pic 12 in that same gallery shows the after.
Few passes with my number 7 stanley and the shavings were flying out the top! I got a bit carried away watching the shavings fly, so this one board ended up a bit narrower than the others.
The top looks good now its all jointed up and I dry fitted everything last night. Off to get some wood glue now so I'll post some more pics later.
|Thread: pic 24|
Cheers Steve, I'll give them a try.
Ah thanks for that woodie. To be honest I dont really get on with sketchup that well. That diagram took me ages to get done. Goodness knows how poeple do some of the elaborate stuff they do. I dont know what it is, maybe I should just give it some time.
ha cheers steve. So do you think those slotted brackets would be ok to attache the table top?
I've put together this sketchup image to show how I intended to pin the legs. The holes in the tenons being slightly off-set back from the ones in the legs. So when pinned they would pull everything tight.
However, I've just done a dry fit and clamped it up and they go together really tight, so my thinking is, glue and clamp them up, then drill and peg them whilst they are still clamped, that way they wont be able to move apart once the clamps are released.
Any thoughts on this appreciated.
Cheers for that.
Steve, I have some angled slot brackets left over from when I installed my kitchen worktops. I planned to use those. I dont have any power tools (other than a circular saw I borrow from my dad) soo cutting the rebates would be a lot of work.
Would love to pick up a multi plane at some point for things like this. regularly checkout ebay for one!
|Thread: pic 5|
|ah, great stuff!! Cheers oddjob.|
|Thread: pic 2|
You might also notice the work I've done to the kitchen since this started. Theres a wall gone, the floor tiles have changed, the cupboards too, and I've put in an oak worktop.
Love the danish oil finish!
Only thing is, all of this building work is stopping me from building my workshop and making some proper things!
|Thread: pic 5|
ha, most of those marks are from my grandad. The workmate is a great tool, I have 2, but this one has seen better days. The springs are broken, the leg catches have gone and the right side of the vice sticks. It still holds a bit of wood though!!
I've found it so important to have a descent heavy workbench as these things just dance around the floor when you're planing a 2" x 6' board edge.
|Thread: pic 24|
Yes, read about haunched tenons to prevent twisting after I had cut these.I'm sticking to the "rustic" claim, to get around these little indescretions . Certainly leart a LOT building this. I try to make notes as I go along as to what to do better next time.
I cut all of these mortices by hand using a bevel edged chisel. They're all pretty tight joints actually. Need to clean up a couple of the tenon shoulders to bring it in, but then I was going to drill and pin them.
As I understand it, if I drill the holes in the side of the leg, through the mortise, then put the rail in and mark the hole, then drill the hole slightly back from the mark, the holes will be slightly out of alignment, causuing the pegs to pull the joint tight.
Should I glue these too? one of them is ever so slightly loose in the mortise. the others are all pretty tight.
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