Here is a list of all the postings Dave Atkinson has made in our forums. Click on a thread name to jump to the thread.
|Thread: Tony Wilson demo 18 October|
Tony Wilson is doing a full day with us on Saturday 18 October. We re the Cheshire Guild of Woodturners and meet at Plumley, just outside of Knutsford - see our websire www.cgw.org.uk.
More details when I have them, but put it in your diary for now, we'd be pleased to see you.
I'd delete the other post, or edit the title, but I don't know how!
|Thread: Tony Wilson Demo 20 September|
Due to a problem with the venue we have moved this to Saturday 18 October - deatils to follow when i have them.
|Thread: Turning blanks.|
Thanks Derek - just a thought about size. Branchwood perhaps 2 - 4 inches diameter is very good for goblets, pots etc and as Ralph says perhaps better cut into lengths of 2 - 3 foot.
Otherwise, a variety of thicknesses is good from a couple of inches upwards. Even pieces with bits missing can be used as these "faults" can be incorprated into the design.
I'm sure you'll have plenty of takers for Yew - thanks again
|Thread: Great Service from Record Power|
On Sunday evening 29 June the return spring on my Record Bench Drill went "ping".
On Monday evening at 10 p.m. I sent an email to Record Power via their website giving them details of the drill and asked if spares were available (I have had the drill since 1999).
At 9 a.m. on Tuesday morning I received a call from Record telling me the part was available and could be posted to me. The cost was very reasonable at £9.95 plus P&P and I received the part on Wednesday.
That's what I call service - well done Record Power.
|Thread: Turning blanks.|
I'm often working down South (Bristol/Oxford) so keep us posted and if I'm in the area I'd love a blank or two.
|Thread: turning flower heads|
I rememeber the article but I haven't tried them out. They appealed to me as well and are somewhere on my very long list of things to try. They are different to those that Stuat King turns on his video
Give it a go and take some pics to show us.
Looking forward to the results.
These are very easy to make and any wood will do so long as it's still green. If you use the short point of the skew the curls are made really easily. - Just needs a steady hand!
Great fun and costs nothing if it goes wrong.
|Thread: Laburnum Tree|
Glad the information is of use. I've burned laburnum in the past but I'm of a different generation that came home from the tip with more than you took!! Perhaps some others could give you better advice?
Looking forward to the pics
I've come across this on the HSE website which might be useful:
What are you making out of spalted sycamore? I've not come acorss that before
Fair point Mike about public forums.
I wouldn't want to suggest that anyone who works with wood shouldn't take the appropriate precautions, whether that be with the tools themselves or the process involved.
As you rightly point out care should be taken with all woods. Tables such as the one you gave the link to are useful, but just because a timber doesn't score a "4" doesn't mean that you won't suffer some form of allergic reaction to it.
I believe that we should take appropriate care. In a turning environment special care should be taken with exotic timbers. Another example is spalted beech which is very popular but dust protection here is very important as you don't want the spores growing in your lungs.
It's not too far for me but I haven't got room for any more big bits - I need to convert some existing material into shavings first.
Try this local (in your village) club:
West Pennine Woodturners
Mike I don't believe the dust of either Yew or Laburnum is poisonous - I turn both. However, like all timbers airborne dust can cause respiratory problems and some people can show symptoms of dermatitis on contact but then I know people who adversely react to ash.
Coffee has the same attraction for shavings as tea!
I'll try the saucer jig, Ralph
PJ - how do you get your other half to make tea (or coffee)??
|Thread: Laburnum Tree|
Yes it's a great timber for turning - it looks good and takes a fine finish. On the downside it does tend to split when drying and it would take a year or three for it to be of use, other than for natural edge work with thin walls - which is what I would use the branches for.
In answer to your questions:
a) tree surgeons will always charge.
b) is likely if you can contact a local woodturning club where someone may well have a chainsaw and be prepared to fell and take it away.
c) A bit like b) you might get someone to pay you something for it.
If you let us know where you live there may well be someone on the forum who could help you out.
Good luck Dave
|Thread: Getting a grip|
The AWGB forum is at this address - http://www.awgb.org.uk/phpBB3/index.php
You can browse it at anytime, if you want to controbute then you can register - membership of the AWGB is not required. However, if you ant to view the gallery and join in the competition then you have ton AWGB member.
The AWGB has many schemes to help its members improve their skills and these are open to all amateur and professional alike. You just need to make a case to get the award.
Have you got a shear scraper tip? If so use that on your tool after hollowing to get rid of the bumps.
Another thing to consider, is to grind a flat at 45 degress on the end of the tool and then tap it for the tip. Thus when you use it the square bar is resting falt on trhe rest but the tip is cutting at 45 degrees giving a shear cutting action which should give a better finish.
As far as sanding sticks are concerned you could make your own with some foam attached to a stick and covered with double sided carpet tape and some abrasive.
I have a sleeping mat that I bought from the Army Stores which I'm gradualy using. I stick it onto scrap for jamchucks etc and some of that would work well as a base I expect.
I'm with Mick, white and strong, but don't put it in the vicinity of the lathe - shavings are attracted to it as if by some form of gravitational force
|Thread: Getting a grip|
Yes the scheme still exists as far as I know. Whether it would be loaned to a school I don't know. There is a discussion at the moment teaching woodwork/metalwork in schools going on within the AWGB Forum at the moment, which prompted my earlier post.
If anyone is interested in the AWGb and the schemes that it offers please have a look at their website www.woodturners.co.uk
|Thread: Best bandsaw blades|
I guess you know all that by now Mike - didn't check the dates on the posts!!
I have a SIP 14" bandsaw and it cuts very well. I buy my blades from Craft Supplies and they seem to work fine. I use a 1/2" blade most of the time at 6TPI.
Mike you mentioned it taking hours to set up and still couldn't cut straight. If you knock the set off the blade it won't ever cut straight and it is very easy to do that.
When I set mine up I first move all the blade guides out of the way set up the tension and then set the tracking. Once this is done I set the rear guide bush to make sure the side bushes don't foul the teeth when you push the blade back - if they do it'll take off the pitch and then it won't cut straight. Then set the guide bushes to be just touching less a gnat's thingy!
Finally, test the saw to see how much drift it has and adjust the rip fence accordingly, same for the mitre fence.
Hope this helps
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