Here is a list of all the postings Dave Atkinson has made in our forums. Click on a thread name to jump to the thread.
|Thread: Re-furbished Drum Table.|
|Hi Derek It looks great - a super job. Cheers Dave|
|Thread: new extension end|
|Hi Sparky It all looks very clean which is more than you can say for mine! Are you very tall? I just ask because I see you seem to have raised your lathe. Just being a nosy beggar really! Cheers Dave|
|Thread: Bowl Finishing|
|Hi Chris Agree with all the above. I have done a few bits in spalted silver birch and found that some parts just need abrasive. I power sand these with 60 grit, it gets rid of tearout quickly, and the marks are easily removed ith the next grit up (which for me is 120 grit). Keep it moving though as you can turn a bowl in spalted wood with 60 grit!! Look forward to seeing the picture Cheers Dave|
|Thread: Hollowing systems|
|Hi Alan I don't know what Tony had in mind yet. Seek me out if you come - we'd be very pleased to welcome you. Dave|
|Thread: Burr Elm Skelton Clock|
Another super clock
|Thread: Another Clock|
Nice piece of work Mark - I like its simplicity - it lets the timber do the talking. I bet it's a beggar to dust though
|Thread: Hollowing systems|
Hi again Alan
Have you seen the post about "Wooden Blocks" - the lady is in Bala whch can;t be too far from you - there may be a bargain or two there.
I have the Large Roly Munro which does have a cranked head for small openings but at £170 you need to be sure. If you're not in a rush I'd go to the Midlands Woodworking show on 10 - 12th October (see http://www.skpromotions.co.uk/midlands.htm) for details - Phil Irons will be there as is Les Thorne (rolly tools) and loads of suppliers and it's not too far from North Wales.
By the way if you fancy a day out we have Tony Wilson doing a full day demo at our club on Saturday 18th october 10 am to about 4 pm - it's a tenner including a light lunch. We are the Cheshire guild of Woodturners see www.cgw.ork.uk for directions
|Thread: Help with taper size|
The Morse Taper size refers to the size of the hole the drive centre at the headstock and the live centre at the tailstock fit into. Record use Morse taper size 1 (MT1) This is the smallest. See http://www.woodturners.org/tech_tips/morse_taper_sizes.htm for more information.
You don't say what your problem is but...
I would recommend a 4 prong centre or a "stebcentre" Their are advantages to both but both work well. Whether you use a 2 or 4 prong centre it is important to embed them firmly in the end of teh spindle. You do this by tapping smartly with a mallet (not a hammer which will damage the end of the centre) but this may split the spindle. A better alternative is to cross cut the ends on the band saw if you have one by abut a millimetre. This will ensure the prongs don't slip.
A good quality revolving centre is a good investmemt, particularly one with interchangeable ends so you can make your own for special projects.
When you have got set up you must lock the talstock quill, otherwise it tends to back off and the workpiece comes loose. Another thing that often happens is that both drive and tailstock centres can work their way into the wood and again the thing comes loose. Remember to tighten the quill again and lock it down.
I hope that helps. If you can be more specific about your probem lots of people here will be pleased to help.
|Thread: Burr Elm Bowl|
Great bowl Mark and lovely finish.
|Thread: Hollowing systems|
I have a Rolly Munro and find it very good. I aso have the RS2000 system from Sprby which I bought second hand and again it is a good tool but I prefer the Rolly Munro.
I have just been watching Mick Hanbury's new DVD on Making and Decorating Hollow Forms. Mick reviews the tools you mention and apart from that it is an excellent DVD, especially if you are new to hollowing. You can buy it from www.ktmp.co.uk/ for about £20 plus postage. It is well worth the purchase and I would watch it before I boiught the tool.
You can buy the Rolly from Les Thorne at www.thesheddirect.com
Hope that helps
Sometimes if you move the tool too fast down the spindle (I assume it is a spindle) then you get a spiral in the timber. This is very hard to get rid of as the tool naturally sits in the groove. This causes chatter. I sometiimes get this on the sweep of the bowl - largelyin my rush to remove timber!
When this happens to me I change the speed of the lathe and move the tool very slowly alowing it to cut away the high spots.
Hope this helps.
|Thread: sip 01360 Professional lathe|
Looks like it Sam!
I have four pieces of SIP kit and have yet to be disappointed, but not the lathe. Let us know how get on
|Thread: Horse Chestnut Bowl - top1.jpg|
Thanks guys - it was a b****r to turn - all out of balance and the wood was different densities throughout, some of it quite soft. Thanks heavens for 60grit!
|Thread: Horse Chestnut Bowl - base1.jpg|
Good spot Marc - not noticed that before.
|Thread: Segmented Vase|
Great piece Raplh, I don't do segmented stuff - takes far too much patience for me! perhaps one day when I've got some time?
Looking forward to seeing some more
|Thread: Lidded Pot.jpg|
Thanks Marc - I;ve just posted a pictire of a bowl I made last week - I think it is possibly one of the best I;ve done.
Never too late
If you pay the postage plus 1.50 per piece I can send you a couple of pieces if you like. They are about 5 inches in diameter and about 4 inches thick. I can check on postage at the weekend. Let me know.
I agree with Ivor, I think it would look just as good the other way up as well.
|Thread: Biscuit Jointers|
I think Derek means you can joint at any angle with a jointer which you can't do with a router table.
I have a draper which is in the price range. It's been perfectly adequate for my needs, although I don't use it that much.
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