Here is a list of all the postings Ivor the engine has made in our forums. Click on a thread name to jump to the thread.
|Thread: Time for a new PC Chair|
Hi! Woodchip, Try Staples www.staples.co.uk they should have one to fit you,
|Thread: Vacuum Workholding System|
Hi! Oddjob. Web Site, www.toolpost.co.uk
The last time i was on that site was in 2006 and the prices of the kits were,
1120mm x 520mm £ 52.50 + vat
610mm x 320mm £ 73.50 + vat
482mm x 259mm £ 36.50 + vat
From the USA,
Hope this helps,
Hi! Tell me has anybody heard of or has got one, a product called M-Power Vacuum Workholding System you connect it to your vacuum cleaner 1000 watt [min]
I saw one at a Woodworker Show at Sandown Park back in about 1995 as i was going to buy one about £400 i thought at the time what a great idea but at that time could not justify spending that amout but then since have found a site that sells self-build kits with a range of sizes at affordable prices,
In my opinion a very handy bit of tackle to have in your workshop,
Ivor the engine.
|Thread: Table saws|
Thanks for info when i took all the boxes off it i found that i had already done it a few years before i had moved here in 2004 "its the old grey cells" and i have had a good think and another think and i think i used the two part glue its still there anyway,
As for Startrite spares i have found a firm on the Web,
Thanks again Derek and John,
|Thread: Kick out the plastic|
Gavin, Go to www.sashwindowspecialist.com/diyguide thats one on sash windows, If not on Google go to search punch in "weights for sash windows" and you should get up lots of Web sites on sash windows,
|Thread: Cutting & Jointing MFC (Melamine Faced Chipboard)|
Hi, Sorry Mike it was Derek and John who replyed,
Hi Roger, I forgot the bit about a few rubs of candle on the base and guide edge of the straight trim router jig it will make your router glide like a bird, i allways have old bits of used candle in the worshop very useful, a few rubs on the soul of your plane,
With regards to size of TCT cutter you use it does not need to be 19m can be 18m or 12.7 you just fix the guide at what ever the measurement is of the cutter blade to the flat edge of router base as i explained in part 1 above so you can use what ever cutter you have to hand as long as it does not have its own guild, i find bigger size cutter more robust and the 50m length doubly the life of the cutter as you can use bottom part first adjust router for the top part of cutter or vice versa, Remember each time you have that cutter sharpend as it gets smaller each time to re-adjust and refix your guide to your straight trim router jig,
In my part 2 i omitted to add "This is the easy bit" in my first part,
With regards to my enquiry the other day about a Startrite saw bench i have got with regard to repair of broken corner to the cast iron table when i move all the boxes off it i found i had already glued it back some years ago "funny thing the old grey cells" which as i remember using a 2 part glue and i also found a web site that does old Startrite spares,
Many thanks for your replys one i think was from Mike,
Having got your panel to the stage of edging for the pre glued type i use a small old type electric iron not a steam iron to light, a 2" wide strip of brown paper, apply your edging to your panel leave a bit excess over each end for trimming place brown paper between edging and iron when the glue appears move iron and brown paper "you get to know how long it takes to cook" when thats done get a small but square edged block of wood and rub along the edging strip while its still warm maintaining an even pressure like the iron be carefull when you come to the ends, let it cool about 10min would do it, lay panel on a flat surface i use a 10" doubly edged medium to fine grade flat file "with out a handle" i use the file to knock the excess edging off each end or you can use a knife as when the edging has cooled down it is in a brittle state and breaks quite easely, then i lay the file flat on the panel and with not to much pressure normal the weight of the file is enough use a sawing action all the time going forward at a slight angle like a circular motion allways cutting on the forward stroke, as long as don't press to hard or linger in one place to long the file will not damage the surface, one stroke should take the excess off if not lightly go over again, once that is done you put a small chamfer just to take the sharp edge off "be light of stroke", if the file clogs up with excess glue use a wire brush across the file it will clear, next put panels in bench vice making sure the edge is facing you and square off the ends laying the file flat on un edged part of the panel using forward motion lifting the file on backward the stroke, i use a Paint Thinners to clean off any excess glue, practice on some scrap and make sure your work place has plenty of light and good eye sight helps,
I hope you all understand the above but i have been doing this sort of work for over 30 years i think i could do it in the dark amongst other things, i sure that some of you out there has one and knows how many jobs one can do with it which costs next to nothing apart from buying the router, if i could have given a demo i could have been to the moon and back for the time it has taken me to put this on paper,
Take care, Ivor
In my many years as a kitchen Fitter one finds ways of doing this on site or in the workshop, as time is money as i had to modfi units and make up extra shelves and things on site, first cut your panels 2 to 3 m over size with what ever saw you have, get yourself 2 offcuts of MFC 1 about 6" x 36" x 18m and another offcut 4" x 36" x 18m i used plinth offcuts, if you have a Router with a flat side to the base using a 2 flutted 19m x 50m long TCT cutter measure from the blade to the flat edge on the base of your router, mine is a Elu 177e which is just under 2" nail or screw the 4" offcut to the 6" offcut down its length just over 2" from one edge making sure it is dead straight as this will be your bench mark for what ever you will trim in the future, so you end up with something like a step, 36" long, next pass your router down the length with the flat part of the router base against the 4" offcut make a second pass to make sure, the 4" offcut then acts as a guide for your router base, having done this you will have yourself a straight edge to suit your router with the same cutter, so if you wanted to trim a panel of say 12" wide having pre cut it 2m over 12" mark 12" from one edge of your panel and clamp your straight edge on the 12" mark that's edge you have just trimmed, place your router on the 6" offcut and your flat side of the base against the 4" offcut or guide i would make 2 passes with the first pass i would hold the router away from the guide so the front of the base is touching the guide and the back is not, "this takes practice" so what you are doing is only taking 1m off at a time as taking the 2m off in one pass there is less chance of a chip as there is more than wood in chipboard, with the 2nd pass the router base is flat against the offcut or guide, un-clamp and lightly with finger and thumb each side run a 10" medium file along the cut edge to take off the bits because if you run your finger along it you will feel like wood it has a grain made by the cutter and those bits will show up under your edging so what the file does is to take them off,
After all that you end up with a straight edge jig for your router that can be used over and over again, i all ways had one to hand for panels, worktops anything that needed a good clean straight edge if you damage the edge you can resite the 4" bit, a pass with the router and you have a new edge do the same if you use another size cutter, you can make longer ones but you got to make sure they are straight, but i found that one about a 36" stayed straight for a long time or you can all ways make a new one,
Thats the hard bit,
Part 2 to follow,
Take care, Ivor the engine.
|Thread: Table saws|
I have a Startrite Tilt Arbor Sawbench Model 145 had it since 1978 from new anybody know where i can get spare parts, mainly a rip fence as it got damaged in transit when i moved house, and can anybody recommend a glue to stick a corner of the table back about 2'' x 2'' and it had to be one of the front corners bearing in mind that it is made of cast iron, The last contact i had was with a firm in Rochester long time ago took over from Startrite i was told,
Many thanks Ivor.
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