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Member postings for Andy Bell

Here is a list of all the postings Andy Bell has made in our forums. Click on a thread name to jump to the thread.

Thread: help
07/10/2008 22:45:00

Nigel, I think you could be one of the lucky ones. I had mine in the table and held a stick against the sides of the extension at low speed it hums. At high speed (no stick) it sets up a resonance, with a 20mm cutter in mine at anything over speed three the table starts vibrating and a bit faster and it gets scarey.

Time to order a new one. Any recomendations?

Andy

Thread: Why didn't I think of this before!!!
07/10/2008 17:37:00
Sparky, why not go the whole hog and just wear socks. 
Thread: Designs for up to spec box sliding sash
06/10/2008 11:52:00

Just in case anyone is still following this thread. I've started recording my window making on a blog. So if you're interested have a look at http://slidingsash.blogspot.com/ . Any comments and suggestions would be gratefully received.

Andy

Thread: Kick out the plastic
06/10/2008 11:48:00

I've started work on my first double glazed box sliding sash window. The overall size is 1920 x 1322mm. I've started a blog to record, in detail, how I'm making them.

I know alot of what I'm recording is going to be basic stuff to a lot of you folks. But I'm learning as I go. When I've finished the first one hopefully I'll be able to follow the blog to make another 7 without out having to think about how to set everything up all over again.

So if your interested have a look at http://slidingsash.blogspot.com/ . Any comments and suggestions would be gratefully received.

Thanks

Andy

Thread: help
03/10/2008 20:14:00

I'll check mine to see if it's something I've done first. I rang them once to tell them the earth bolt in NVR switch was positioned so it shorted to terminals on switch, I altered it myself to get working. They didn't seem very greatful for the info. It's a shame from a British manufacturer/importer.

Andy

03/10/2008 19:34:00

Hi David,

I've got a Record table as well it came with a 1/2" extension. First I didn't check that Collet was seated in the nut. It wasn't and I had a hell of time getting the cutter out. That solved, I've found I get excesive vibration from it at speeds over 4ish on my Trend even with a 12.5mm straight bit. I'm thinking it could be a cheap extension Record are supplying or I've buggered the collets at the first atempt. I'll follow Andy K's links and see about a new one.

Andy

Thread: 06 Extractor.jpg
03/10/2008 10:10:00

Ralph, Good luck with it. Try a forum search for "extactors" there's other examples of DIY kit that could inspire you.

Andy

01/10/2008 10:49:00

An earlier version I made from 2 twenty litre food tubs I still use that as a wet vac. When I got the planer ( and saw Mike's version on a previous thread) I realised I needed the higher capacity, so I'm not having to empty it every 2 mins. I went for portability as well

There's loads of different ways to make these cheap, it depends on what comes to hand. I think the thing to be careful of if using a domestic vacumn is that dust doesn't get drawn through the motor.

Sparky, its only 560w

Andy

Thread: spiral stairs.jpg
01/10/2008 10:08:00

Thanks for the coments.

It is the first stairs I've made, I like a challange but I'm glad I dont have to make any more, all the angles and compound angles take a lot of thinking about. The structure is built from 18mm birch ply and the timber panneling applied to that, so you could say I've cheated. But it acheived the result I was after.

Thread: 06 Extractor.jpg
30/09/2008 18:52:00

Hi Ralph,

The container is a dustbin with a disc of MDF sealed in the top, this has a 220mm hole in it. The cut down kirby vacumn cleaner is fitted to a piece of MDF that sits over the hole to make a lid, it seals with some foam draught excluder. A couple of bits drain pipe connect the kirby to lid. I just use the cloth bag as final filter (no paper bag). The flexible pipe fits to dustbin using 40mm waste pipe fitting.

The dustbin collects all the shavings and saw dust, I clean fine stuff out of the cloth bag out every five or six bin fulls. It could do with a large diameter pipe as it occasionaly gets blocked but it works well enough on my planer/thicknesser

 Andy

  

Thread: spiral stairs.jpg
30/09/2008 18:00:00

Michael,

Thanks. It's designed from scratch by myself to take up just a little more room than the large airing cupboard that was there and to out under the roof apex. I've got the spindles and rails to fit next.

Thread: Kick out the plastic
18/09/2008 10:37:00

Gavin,

Seals, Pulleys, cord, etc from www.Reddiseals.com , cheapest I've found and fast delivery. Good luck with your windows.

I'm ready to start on my first one now. Has anyone got a rabit farm I can donate some shavings to?

http://www.getwoodworking.com/sites/5/images/member_albums/6764/wood.jpg

I'm looking forward to this

Andy

17/09/2008 10:53:00

I've got some pictures done. First one showing the Rebate in the bottom rails. Pencil lines show the missing groove down the bottom complete with drain hole, this should stop water reaching the inner bead. Thanks Mike for pointing that problem out.

http://www.getwoodworking.com/sites/5/images/member_albums/6764/rebate_small.jpg

Looking down on the side rail of sash, instead of using a bead to hold the double glazed unit in I'm using the complete inner face of the sash. This is screwed on. The screw heads will be hidden by the parting and staff beads.


http://www.getwoodworking.com/sites/5/images/member_albums/6764/sash_joint_small.jpg


Gavin, hopefully you can see the profiles from these.

Andy

http://www.getwoodworking.com/sites/5/images/member_albums/6764/sash_top_small.jpg

16/09/2008 11:20:00

Mike,

Thanks for good info. I'll look in to the pressure treating, I was going to dip the end grain in preserver but if the the price is right I'll go for pressure treating.

I've just had another look at the Mumford and Wood designs. These are externally beaded and have the drain/vent holes, a groove 3mm ish deep goes down the midle of the rebate, joining the holes and will stop any water going further.

I can stop the side bead clear of the bottom bead as well.

This is the kind of detail I'm wanting to get right at this stage, so thanks again.

Gavin, I'll try and get the pictures done later on.

Andy 

15/09/2008 20:01:00

Mike,

I was sure... but I've not got your experiance (in fact I've had no exeriance). I'll be incorporating some ideas that will hopefully negate the problems of water getting in.

I'll used foam cored adhesize glazing tape topped off with a bead of silicon. I'm sure this will fail eventually but hopefully no quicker than external beading. 

The glazing will be on pads in rebate giving a gap of around 5mm all the way round, the bottom rails I'll drill maybe 4 off 8mm holes so any trapped water can escape and moisture should be able to evaporate.  Apparently when double glazing is fitted snug into rebates the edge seals fail realy quickly, this is supposed to prevent this. 

Do you think these ideas might solve the problems you have come across?

Andy

15/09/2008 11:20:00

Hi Gavin,

The sashes can all be done with a straight router bit. Apart from, I'm glazing from the inside and the quadrent moulding is on beading as wide as the sash sections. This is screwed on to retain the glass. The rebate is 20mm deep, Ive put a 45 deg. chamfer on the outside so it looks similar to external glazing with putty. I've hand cut mitres to join the chamfers and quadrent.

I cut the tenons for the bottom joints and blanks for the top dovetails with the same straight bit. The joints are hand finished.

Ive just read the above and realised I can't explain in words, so If you're interested I'll disasemble (the mock up isn't glued) and take some photos. But to answer your question the bits I've used are 19mm straight, 30mm chamfer, 32mm quadrent from a Trend 15 piece set.

Andy 

   

12/09/2008 20:52:00

Thanks Mike,

The sashes have the seal on the sides so they run smooth and dont scew and jam, but front to back (parting bead and staff bead) its timber to timber.

I've managed to keep the meeting rails down 38mm height (same as bought mouldings). Elsewhere I do get torn between, "better safe than sorry" and "slim as possible", but I think I've got within 5mm of single glazed sections, availble these days.

Hope you can see on this sketch how it works out.

http://www.getwoodworking.com/sites/5/images/member_albums/6764/skoportion_sketch.jpg

I would like to sink the box frame further behind the brick work but I'd have cut the inner brickwork back a bit

cheers Andy

Thread: Designs for up to spec box sliding sash
12/09/2008 16:07:00

I'm back after being busy with a bit of a progress report. But I've posted it under the thread [b]Kick out the plastic[/b]  By JohnMcM

I dont know If I should carry on under this thread or John's, Any clues?

Thanks

Andy

Thread: Kick out the plastic
12/09/2008 15:53:00

I've just been out and taken some pictures of the test window.

http://www.getwoodworking.com/sites/5/images/member_albums/6764/window_outside.jpg

The proportions look wrong because its small only about 600mm high, all the sections are actual size so I could test out how to make the joints and get the clearances right

http://www.getwoodworking.com/sites/5/images/member_albums/6764/window_inside.jpg

It works well and slides beautifully

http://www.getwoodworking.com/sites/5/images/member_albums/6764/widow_34.jpg

The weight boxes are designed to take 50 x 50mm lead weight, on the final windows these will be around 600mm long.

http://www.getwoodworking.com/sites/5/images/member_albums/6764/sash_close_up.jpg

This shows the brush seal on the meeting rail. This is the only seal that will be visible, only with the window open.

Gavin, I got about Ł1200 of new tools authorised by the missus. Only trouble is, I've got to make all the windows now.

I hope my efforts are of interest.

Andy

12/09/2008 14:38:00

John

I think we could be going along the same lines except I'm opting for softwood. I came across the same dearth of information. I Started a thread a while back [b]Designs for up to spec box sliding sash[/b]. Thanks again to everyone for advice etc.

I've negleted the forum for a while due to almost finishing my loft conversion. Ive got a blog about it  http://roomuptop.blogspot.com/ if anyone interested.  Also I've been working on the window designs.

I did loads of research. The Trada web site has a great section "High Performance Wood Windows" http://www.trada.co.uk/techinfo/library/view/4535277D-8A3E-458D-A280-CAEF8404564E/High+performance+wood+windows/ar01.html (don't know if the link will work, you might have to log in.) this give advice on design and seals principles.

So far I've drawn up the designs and made a small working mockup. I've modified traditions designs to incorporate 24mm Double glazing and managed to keep the box width down to 160mm. I've designed in hidden brush seals and kept all the proportions as traditional as possible. The design is for tradtional weights, it will cost a lot in lead, approx 40kg per window. I'll post some photos of the model/test piece.

I've tooled up with a bench saw, planner thicknesser and router table. I did look at a Spindle moulder but the price of tooling put me off. I have made all the sections from scratch with a small set of 1/2" router tools. The next stage is to make the first full size window to test the design fully before I make the rest.

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