Here is a list of all the postings Andy Bell has made in our forums. Click on a thread name to jump to the thread.
|Thread: reclaimed oak panneling c/w woodworm|
I think i was about 10 years old when I said thats what I wanted as a reaction to modern interiors at the time I think I was Tudor influenced. I'll be the first to admit my tastes in some areas are alternative leaning to the "Gothic".
I sketched a rough idea about 15 years ago.
Now I've got these pannels it will be up to door height instead of dado as in this sketch. The oval mirror might end up on a sliding pannel to hide a flat screen telly. With leather chesterfields and a real fire, something like will be spot on. That's if I ever get chance to sit down and enjoy it.
All in best possible taste
It's been a while since I've been on as one big renovation project has been taking up all my time. However I've just aquired the oak panneling from a church just before it was demolished, the plan is to re-work it to fit my front room, building it around the chimney breast and adding cupboards at the sides.
The panneling has got worm in parts the worst I'll cut out but I'm planning to treat all the rest of it with a Borax solution. Then I'll be storing them in the front room until I get round to starting, could be upto 12 months.
I am concerned about introducing an infestation in to my house. Does anyone spot any weakness to my Plan?
|Thread: disposing of wood shaving|
|Local rabit and ferret owners have all mine|
|Thread: Flooring chipboard sizes.|
I've used the Flooring chipboard on my loft floor and found the ends of the boards (600mm) interlocked are fine unsupported with staggered joints on 400mm spaced joists. All cut ends must be on a joist or noggin. But if in doubt, or you might have some heavy point loading, I'de go with Craig as its not much extra work.
|Thread: wood or flat|
I'de go for felt on the roof, the last one I made has lasted 20 years so far with no maintainance. The only timber I've heard of on rooves are cedar shingles, I think. Feather edge on the walls is OK but does need regular treatment. When the knots dry up and fall out you will have a few holes. So put up a membrane before you clad or any insulation will get soggy. The only other advice I can think of is, for longevity, to build a dwarf wall from brick or breeze block to keep the timber of the ground.
|Thread: Workshop Waste|
I asked around our village for folks with rabits, ferets etc. Now I've got a waiting list, all I ask for is a few bin liners in return. So thats all the planer/router shavings and sawdust delt with. All the off cuts used for kindling in the log burner.
Roger was asking about wood burners, I found some stoves a while back on t'interweb designed to shavings and sawdust, could be good allround solution.
|Thread: Linseed Oil Paint|
Just an update on this one.
I've just installed the window pre-painted with the linseed oil paint. I'm happy with the finish and it seems reasonably tough, I didn't have to retouch any of it after installation.
The main down side of it has been the drying time, over 24hrs per coat in a warm room.
I'll see how it stands up to the weather now.
|Thread: Designs for up to spec box sliding sash|
|Whoopee. The first one is in and working.|
Now for the other Six.
|Thread: New Year Projects|
Completing current projects is first on the list for me.
Snap - Richard (Mr Maguire) I've got my loft conversion to finish off - A little more woodworking and then the big finish session on the stairs. I'll be after some advice on what to use.
Then, at some point I've got another 6 of my Sliding Sash windows to make as well. Deadline set - Next Christmas.
New project, now the wife has seen I can make doors, I think I'll be making a new front door. Followed by an inner lobby doorway and door with Gothic arches.
I'll be keeping busy.
|Thread: Double glazed sash windows|
From my research, not experiance, I have been told beding fully in silicone can be sucseful. MAKE SURE you use neutral curing, Low modulus silicone. The viniger smelling stuff will attack the edge sealent of the DG units. Normal glazing silicone wont work.
I choose to go for EPDM seals, 24mm units in a vented and drained rebate. However I've started from scratch, the sashes are 55mm wide and clamp the glass and seals together firmly.
Check how much length you have in weight boxes to give you full movement. You could get two cast iron weights in each box, one on top of the other, articulated so they still fit in the pockets. Otherwise go for lead, cheapest I've found is direct from the smelters, Heaps Arnold and Heaps Ltd.
Thanks Joe, http://slidingsash.blogspot.com/ , only very slightly more technical knowledge so I'm hoping the link will work.
Spell checkers not working so apologies for the spellings.
|Thread: Computer Desk Design|
I like the moveable shelves, one big enough for A4 reems, file etc. Have you though about where a printer scaner would go?
Little Bro will be expecting blue if he sees the sketches. Blue dye on ash - Kid Chic.
|Thread: Softwood preferred sizes|
Thanks for the explanation and knowledgeable advice. Joinery is my bag at the momement. I'll do what I can to reduce waste by buying closer to size and better selection down at the timber yard.
|Thread: Computer Desk Design|
You could think about some sort of shelving above the desk for speakers and the other assorted periferals we tend to acumulate. Anything to keep the desk space clear. Also consider leg stretching room underneath.
Good luck with it
|Thread: workshop alarms|
The PIR with klaxon would be inside, hopefully the mice I get wouldn't set it of .
I know what you mean about the security lights outside. My big doors go on to a pitch black back lane. The sensor is set so it only operates within about 8" of the door. The doors are strong and quadruple locked. I'm hoping someone would notice an illuminated Ram raid or chainsaw.
Agreed, strong secure doors and windows not forgeting the frames are the best solution. But anything to put off the opportunist scallywags is a good extra.
I was going instal this in my garage, I've just not got round to in yet -
A PIR security light with a 240v klaxton wired in to it. I'd have a switch I could reach just inside the door outside of the PIR range. A friend of mine has done similar with a pull cord switch threaded through wall so he can switch it on and off from outside. He also had a baby alarm to make sure he could hear what was happening from his bed room!
I also have 250w security lights over each door, pointing down so as not to add to sky glow.
Cheap and cheerful, if thats the kind of thing you where looking for. Otherwise a bought one with a magntic switches and PIRs eg. http://www.screwfix.com/prods/34004/Security/Alarms/Burglar-Alarms/Friedland-Wired-Intruder-Alarm-Kit-with-2-PIRs
should do the trick.
You can get shed alarms for round £10 but I'm sure they are all that scary.
|Thread: Softwood preferred sizes|
Tension inherent in the wood is something I'd not heard about. I though it might have been coming from the outside of a large section being drier and when cut the wetter inside has chance to expand causing the bowing and twisting.
I'll carry on buying as close to size as I can, may be adjust designs to suit stock sizes and planning my purchases a bit better to avoid waste.
Some body once told me they buy 9 x 3" and rip it down to what ever they need. The man at Arnold Lavers said that as the redwood isn't well dried its likely to warp as soon as its cut. I've noticed this when ripping smaller sections down.
Are there better wood yards out there who sell redwood thats had a longer in the kiln? Or is it standard practice now for importers and producers to save a shilling?
I'm sure if I rip my own sections I'll end up with less waste/kindeling.
Dave, It's a good job they still make tapes and rules double scaled for the likes of us.
I've just checked in my Arnold Lavers catalogue. Sawn theres not a 47mm in sight - 16, 19,22,25,32,38,50,63,75 & 100 in various widths.
I think the sizes are metric versions of imperial with lots of history thrown in. The lengths from a timber yard are metric versions of feet 2.4, 2.7,3,3.3, etc.
Enjoy your makings, Good luck.
|Thread: garage 1.jpg|
The picture from near the dartboard shows the working space better but I do need more space.
I'll ask my son if I can borrow his tardis http://uk.youtube.com/watch?v=Rcrey6BVVfg
I've only just seen your post. All but two of the bikes have a proctective layer of oil, saw dust, cobwebs, shavings, card board boxes, old push chairs, and car tyres. The other two get an occasional run out or a blast with the airline.
Well spotted, the dart board moves, it's my little lads'. I have to be careful what wood is under it to avoid instant woodworm effect
It is well lived in, it's my bolt hole, if my wireless contection would reach I'd spend even more time up there.
Want the latest issue of The Woodworker incorporating Good Woodworking? Use our magazine locator links to find your nearest stockist!
We're always happy to hear from you, so feel free to get in touch!