Here is a list of all the postings Paul Finlay has made in our forums. Click on a thread name to jump to the thread.
|Thread: starting my worksop.|
Your workshop will be just under 18sqm so you are exempt from planning permission, regardless if it can be seen from the road or not once you keep the height 4m or under your fine.
Best of luck with it and THE MAN NEXT DOOR
Over here you can build up to 40sqm without planning permission providing it does'nt reduce the garden space to less than 25sqm and taking into account any earlier extentions. For a shed u can build it any size u want as long as you can't see it from the road and it does'nt exeed 4m high and again it does'nt reduce the garden to less than 25sqm. Altough you do need an inspection from the council for anything over 40sqm you won't need to worry about that as your build is under 18 sqm. To build it to code you will need to lay a minimum of 150mm of hardcore blinded with sand followed by a damp proof membrane or radon barrier followed by 50mm thick insulation ( kingspan or similar ) followed by 150mm of concrete, you may or may not need reinforcing mesh but it does'nt hurt to throw it in anyway.
|Thread: Your Workshop Heaven|
Matthew, thats truly great news!
Here's two toolmakers from America that as far as I know don't have any dealers or outlet this side of the pond. The clamps and the mircofence are of exellent quality and precision anf fot those reasons I think they would be right up your ally.
Another one is http://www.fastcap.com/ some really inovative stuff on there.
On the machinery front I think if you can do it you should, why not!, in these unfavorable economic times businesses need to adapt to change and bring new ideas to the table.
I look forward to seing some new stuff on your site and I wish you all the best for the futre.
|Thread: Chisel Blade Guards|
I dont know where you could get the plastic covers but I would suggest getting yourself a good quality leather chisel roll.
They give much better protection to the chisel and they are a lot harder to lose
|Thread: makita plunge saw|
The Festool saw plunges from a single pivot point where as the Dewalt moves foward slightly and then plunges, because I am used to the Festool saw when I tried the Dewalt this motion felt strange and I instinctively used my other hand to stop the saw moving forward, but I am told by someone who owns the saw that after using the saw for a while you get used to the motion and can quite easily use it with one hand, so if I were considering buying the Dewalt I would'nt worry about that.
As for the MFT only being good if you dont have a good bench saw well I have a Felder panel saw and a Scheppach 4020 with sliding table and I would'nt be without my MFT's for anything. Apart from it being a great work table with all it clamping abilties I just love the way I can bring them on site and croos cut 600mm melaine panels ( up to 700mm ) perfectly square and splinter free and I don't believe ther is any table saw that can cross cut those panels and still be light enough to move around.
As for Festools prices, well it would sure be nice if they could lower them, but they claim that their tools are only made of the highest quality materials and components and that quality comes at a price. I for one am very happy with all my Festool purchases.
The Makita and the new Dewalt saws are both very good copies of the Festool and you really have to splitt hairs to say one is better than the other. In every review I've read the Festool comes out best but again its only marginal on things like faster blade change, plug it cord, splinter guard for clean cuts on the right hand side of the blade etc. Even the prices are'nt that far apart £250 Makita, £330 Dewalt and £350 for the Festool.
I think the best reason to buy the Festool over the others is that the Festool saw is part of a much bigger system and that is where the Festool excells far beyond the others. The MFT tables are brilliant and I've lost count on how many times they've paid for themselves and when your using Festool routers, jigsaw, donino and sanders together the plug it cord is a real convience and time saver.
|Thread: Biscuit jointers ~ good or bad?|
I use both biscuits and more often dominos for the day job witch is mostly high end shopfitting and 2nd fix work. I couldn't be without them now and I could sing their praises all day long but for building furniture I wouldn't view them as a necessary tool. The only time I really use them for furniture would be for jointing boards together and that's really only for alignment and as Mike already said there are other ways of doing that. I don't think its cheating when they are used appropriately and preform a functional part of a project. However where dovetail joints or housing joints etc would be more appropriate and biscuits are used instead well then that's not just cheating that's BUTCHERY
|Thread: why not in ireland|
Try Brooks in Balbriggan, beside the builders merchants they have the biggest hardwood selection in Ireland and they're cheap aswell.
Hope this helps
|Thread: Bandsaw Vs Tablesaw|
I'm with Baz on this one, I really only use the bandsaw for resawing for everything else I use the tablesaw, plunge saw with guide rails or MFT. The MFT's are a little pricey but I love them.This video doesn't do it justice but it really is a brilliant table but again expensive.
I'll second that, take a look at the Bacho 1031 chisels, I got a set from matthew a while back and they are the best chisels I've ever had. They hold a sharp edge noticeably longer than any marples chisels I've had in the past.
|Thread: Working on your own|
I was having a discussion the other day about what tricks of the trade or work-aids I use when working on my own. For example I have two adjustable leg stands ( I think they 're for plaster board ) I use all the time on site for putting up kitchen cabinets etc. Also my quick grip clamps come in handy all the time and I have three jumbo toolboxes on wheels witch saves my back. A few others spring to mind like a magic gripper thingy for holding doors and saw horses etc etc. One of the guys suggested this http://www.gorillagripper.com/ witch I think would be really useful.
But I would like to know do you have any tricks or work-aids to assist you working alone be they on site or on the workshop.
At £110, or probably more when it comes to the UK, I would recommend you get the 8" Tormek. Its about £150 but worth every penny. The Tormek is a well proven machine and the 8" version is easily transported on site. The worksharp looks like another gimmick to me and I seriously doubt it would stand up to the Tormek for functionality, accuracy and longevity.
|Thread: Bahco 1031 Bevel edged chisels|
I've been back in the workshop today and experimenting with with that 100 mircon lapping film you so kindly sent me. So far I've done a 50, 40, 38, 32, 25 and 18mm chisels that I never tuned up before and they were long over due a sharpening. If I'm honest my previous experience with flattening planes and chisels by hand on wet and dry paper has left me thinking that the whole process is very slow, very hard and very boring. The first thing I notiticed about this stuff is it is much faster than wet and dry and you can see the results with little effort. The second thing I noticed is that it doesn't clog up half as much, witch will certinley make it last longer. Overall I was very impressed with it and I would definitley reccommend it aswell as buy it myself.
So its two thumbs up from me Matthew.
|Thread: New Festool Kapex Sliding Compound Miter Saw|
I have had this saw since Febuary and I use it every day. I think it is the best tool I have ever bought, so much so that I'm going to get another one. I have used alot of the SCMS on the market and none of them can compare with the Kapex. It is in my opinion simply the best saw there is. I did think it was a bit plastiky at first but thats not the case it is extermely well made and as rugged as any saw I've used. There are so many great features on this but the one I like the best is the way the saw head is balenced, you can tip the saw left or right and it won't just fall all the way down witch makes it very easy to set a compound angle. You can also adjust the angle on the right front rail at the front witch has proved invaluable. It is very smooth and super accurate and the angle finder included is a god send. I could go on and on about this saw but if anybody is really considering a new SCMS and you would be using it for long periods on a daily basis then look no further than the Kapex, it will pay for itself in no time. I would suggest looking at a few of the videos on you tube and then trying it out at a festool dealer first, but I know four other people who bought this saw after seeing me use it and they are as a happy with it as I am.
|Thread: Bahco 1031 Bevel edged chisels|
I must apologise for not responding sooner but I've been leaving the house at 4am and ariving back at about 10:30 pm these last few weeks in order to get a shop fitted out for the 11th. I did recieve the lapping film and I glued it to a piece of mdf as you suggested. I'll give it a try on Saturday morning and post a report straight away.
|I did mine on the Tormek witch give a 1000 grit finish very quickly, then I polished them on the leather wheel. The milling marks look worse then they are but maybe start with 600 grit to get them flat and then proceed with 800 and 1000 or more if you want. The scary sharpening kit sold on http://www.workshopheaven.com would be perfect for this.|
I'll second that,
I got mine a couple of months ago and although the milling marks were more than I would of liked on a set of top quality chisels, they tuned up in no time at all. They feel very comfortable in the hand and the edge stays noticeably sharper for longer than my marples set.
|Thread: Extraction volume|
I don't mind having to get a separate one for dust if thats the best way to go. However my biggest issue would be giving up more space. My Festool vac handles the SCMS and power tools brilliantly so I would only need one for the table saw and band saw. I've had a quick look on axminster and still can't make head nor tail of them. Could you post a link to the type of machine your talking about ?
Please forgive my ignorance but you say it won't change the direction of the waste and the guy in the shop told me it could suck up a spanner. I don't have any extraction at work but its a big space and with a good mask even mdf dust is tolerable but this for my home shop witch is a small space so I want to get it right.
The one I'm getting has a fine filter on the top and a bin bag on the bottom.
What would be the optimum air flow ?
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