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Member postings for Mark Herdman

Here is a list of all the postings Mark Herdman has made in our forums. Click on a thread name to jump to the thread.

Thread: Aldi 370w Bench Morticer
24/10/2009 16:06:12
Has any body bought one of these?
Are they worth the money(£72 inc extra bits)
 
Thread: Saw sharpening
28/04/2009 20:18:06

Thanks for the links; it was Andy King’s article that really got me going.>>

I believe the idea is to make the outside leading edge of each tooth sharp, i.e. bevel on the inside, my saws (not hard point!  Nevertheless, 10+ years old, used once or twice then forgotten.) have the bevel on the outside, putting the sharp edge away  from the wood!>>

Both saws are named, English and German, not cheap far eastern.>>

Still I bought them for practice, £1 for 3, so I cannot complain.>>

> >

For a really interesting saw site go to http://www.vintagesaws.com/cgi-bin/frameset.cgi?left=sawcare&right=/library/primer/sharp.html

26/04/2009 21:29:20
Hi
I am attempting to learn saw sharpening.  I have aquired several saws from car boots, to practise on.  Most have not been sharpened before.
2 appear to have been sharpened at the factory, then set, but  the teeth have been set to the wrong side! 
Has any body seen this before?
I presume the solution is to file out the teeth, as resetting would risk snapping to many off.
Mark H
Thread: Shavings
20/09/2008 09:13:00

Mike

A plane sole is flat.  As a shaving is removed, a step in the wood is created, as the blade advances, the thickness of the shaving deep.

This step can really be seen with an electric planer set to a very deep cut.

A flat edge resting on a step, only touches at two points. 

Imagine looking from the side, as the plane works, the shaving, could only be 1 thou thick, a very shallow step indeed.

(To be very correct I should have said the front of the mouth, not the toe!)

It is the front of the mouth, on the top of the step, the blade creating the step, and the heel on the bottom of the step that touch the wood.

Lateral adjustment, is to get the blade edge parallel to the sole, it is also able to to create a right angle to one of the side cheeks, for use on a shooting board.

Plane design, is very clever, it allows for a great number of variables, both in itself and its work piece.  As you say an unguided beginner has a mountain to face! 

As you will have gathered, I am not a fan of "fettling planes" there are enough adjustments available in a standard plane to over come all but the most atrocious engineering short comings.

Mark

   

19/09/2008 22:23:00

I recall being taught at school, that only 3 parts of the hand plane, actually touch the wood!

The toe, the blade, and the heel.

Hence the ability to plane an edge straight.  Remove shavings from the middle, untill the plane stops cutting, then attempt full lenth shavings untill the first full shaving appears.  Stop. The edge will be now be flat.

Sole of plane not square to sides?  What is the lateral blade adjustment for?

A very sharp, well set blade, is the secret of good planing.

Well known brands ie Stanley, Record, Marples etc. will be fine, very cheap far eastern, unbranded will be very different! 

Thread: Help with Record 735 plane
04/09/2008 21:15:00

Philip

To add, if you can find a copy of "Planecraft"by C. & j. Hampton (Record tool company) the 1959 edition, chapter 17 tells and shows all!

The 735 did have a sharpenable blade, do you have the grooving attachment?

Nice for a collection, but as for use? Maybe somebody has used one?

Mark

04/09/2008 21:07:00

Hi Philip

Go to this web site http://www.supertool.com/StanleyBG/stan13.htm  look at the Stanley #193-5 planes.  Does yours look like these?

If its what I think it is, it will use replaceable blades, akin to razor blades, I don't have a clue where new ones could be found, maybe Stanley Blades might fit?

Mark

Thread: Treasure chest
14/07/2008 20:07:00

Malc

Don't clean the plane, just sharpen and set correctly, and use!!!  It will be wonderfull!!

I have a 4 1/2 Stanley of the same era, the patina on it, is only put there by the skill of ages, do not remove it, add to it by using.

How long does it take to sharpen a chisel away, to a 1/2 inch stump?

Mark

Thread: Help i've stuck my neck out !!
13/07/2008 19:58:00

Go to  http://www.rockinghorse.co.uk/cgi/shop/shop.cgi?cart_id=37130-18008&page=paint 

They sell it about £10-12 a pack

Mark

13/07/2008 19:28:00

Graham, look to rocking horse restoration.  The thick white stuff under the paint is gesso, used to reduce sanding to very nearly zero!  Rocking horse restorers and picture frame restorers use it.

Mark

Thread: Treasure chest
12/07/2008 23:38:00

Hi

Go to this website, the Stanley No 4 is datable, its age might come as a surprise!

http://www.supertool.com/StanleyBG/stan0a.html

Mark

Thread: Shavings
20/09/2008 09:13:00

Mike

A plane sole is flat.  As a shaving is removed, a step in the wood is created, as the blade advances, the thickness of the shaving deep.

This step can really be seen with an electric planer set to a very deep cut.

A flat edge resting on a step, only touches at two points. 

Imagine looking from the side, as the plane works, the shaving, could only be 1 thou thick, a very shallow step indeed.

(To be very correct I should have said the front of the mouth, not the toe!)

It is the front of the mouth, on the top of the step, the blade creating the step, and the heel on the bottom of the step that touch the wood.

Lateral adjustment, is to get the blade edge parallel to the sole, it is also able to to create a right angle to one of the side cheeks, for use on a shooting board.

Plane design, is very clever, it allows for a great number of variables, both in itself and its work piece.  As you say an unguided beginner has a mountain to face! 

As you will have gathered, I am not a fan of "fettling planes" there are enough adjustments available in a standard plane to over come all but the most atrocious engineering short comings.

Mark

   

19/09/2008 22:23:00

I recall being taught at school, that only 3 parts of the hand plane, actually touch the wood!

The toe, the blade, and the heel.

Hence the ability to plane an edge straight.  Remove shavings from the middle, untill the plane stops cutting, then attempt full lenth shavings untill the first full shaving appears.  Stop. The edge will be now be flat.

Sole of plane not square to sides?  What is the lateral blade adjustment for?

A very sharp, well set blade, is the secret of good planing.

Well known brands ie Stanley, Record, Marples etc. will be fine, very cheap far eastern, unbranded will be very different! 

Thread: Help with Record 735 plane
04/09/2008 21:15:00

Philip

To add, if you can find a copy of "Planecraft"by C. & j. Hampton (Record tool company) the 1959 edition, chapter 17 tells and shows all!

The 735 did have a sharpenable blade, do you have the grooving attachment?

Nice for a collection, but as for use? Maybe somebody has used one?

Mark

04/09/2008 21:07:00

Hi Philip

Go to this web site http://www.supertool.com/StanleyBG/stan13.htm  look at the Stanley #193-5 planes.  Does yours look like these?

If its what I think it is, it will use replaceable blades, akin to razor blades, I don't have a clue where new ones could be found, maybe Stanley Blades might fit?

Mark

Thread: Treasure chest
14/07/2008 20:07:00

Malc

Don't clean the plane, just sharpen and set correctly, and use!!!  It will be wonderfull!!

I have a 4 1/2 Stanley of the same era, the patina on it, is only put there by the skill of ages, do not remove it, add to it by using.

How long does it take to sharpen a chisel away, to a 1/2 inch stump?

Mark

Thread: Help i've stuck my neck out !!
13/07/2008 19:58:00

Go to  http://www.rockinghorse.co.uk/cgi/shop/shop.cgi?cart_id=37130-18008&page=paint 

They sell it about £10-12 a pack

Mark

13/07/2008 19:28:00

Graham, look to rocking horse restoration.  The thick white stuff under the paint is gesso, used to reduce sanding to very nearly zero!  Rocking horse restorers and picture frame restorers use it.

Mark

Thread: Treasure chest
12/07/2008 23:38:00

Hi

Go to this website, the Stanley No 4 is datable, its age might come as a surprise!

http://www.supertool.com/StanleyBG/stan0a.html

Mark

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