Here is a list of all the postings Mike Garnham has made in our forums. Click on a thread name to jump to the thread.
|Thread: Gallery Competition|
I'm afraid there will be no photos of my metalwork. I am making a half-size model of something that I am hoping to patent and then produce commercially, so giving all the secrets away on the internet wouldn't be a bright move! I have even done wooden mock-ups of some of the moving parts, which would have made a decent little posting on here, but no-can-do for the same reason.
However, I can report that after about 6 weeks of work, following about 8 weeks of drawing and scheming, my model finally all worked this afternoon! I was a really happy bunny!
It will be at least another 3 or 4 weeks before I can get all of this cleared away and think about my next woodworking project.
My family think I am stark raving ga-ga.
.....but Ben, didn't you spot the spelling mistake under photo number 142?
It can't be right.......
Its not fair......
...........and he's left some sawdust on the workshop floor......
...........he sub-contracted all the work out to Baz
..........and there is no lapis lazuli inlay
...........and no heiroglyphs
...........a big boy did it and ran away
Where's that emoticon with a bloody great tongue in its cheek? Chuffed to bits for you Marc. Hope the legs are recovering. Its been great watching your efforts on this, and especially considering that the piece of furniture is bigger than your shed!!
Well done, great result, and a well deserved first recipient!! Hope you enjoy you new weapon!
PS I might still be in metal-working mode for the next competition too....its not fair!
PPS You can wash that string vest and put it back on now!
|Thread: Egyptian style dresser 2|
Well done Marc, that looks excellent!!! When are you going to inlay it with onyx and lapis lazuli, and paint the heiroglyphs?
The coving appears to have worked out really well........
I hope you are really pleased with this. Well worth the work (and the discomfort).
|Thread: shellac or danish|
If it is 3 months old, it isn't strictly green.......and a good job too!!
'twere it me, I would take it inside the house for anything up to 6 months, unfinished. Certainly until the end of the "heating season". Assess then whether it has survived enough to bother with..........if so, you will almost certainly have to do a few repairs and adjustments. Only then would I bother worrying about a finish for it.
Green oak jewellery box??
Are you sure you mean green (unseasoned) oak? If so, there will be no point applying any finish at all, because this will shrink and warp and crack so much when it is brought inside that I'm afraid it will end up on the fire.
In general terms, Danish oil will not leave a natural colour to the oak........it will very much darken it, and then it will yellow quite badly over time. You could wax it (on a sanding sealer), or you could use Rustins Plastic Coating burnished.
|Thread: Waxing a dining room table|
surely wetting the surface undoes all the good work that Paul has done with his plane? Won't it raise the grain, forcing another round of planing and scraping? It sounds more like the preparation for liming than it does for a polished surface.
I don't doubt your word that it produces a good finish................I just hate the thought of wetting wood!
|Thread: Removing Bitumen from wood - help please|
southcoastgirl wrote (see)
........ soften the bitch up ........
Thats not very Get Woodworking-type language!
|Thread: stable door|
my view is that you would be best to take the glass out and transport that, then have a new door made locally and fit the glass into that. I personally don't think that the door itself is of any great merit or quality. It appears to me to be veneered and lipped, and could be hollow, honeycombed inside, or based on a chipboard blank. I would wager that it isn't made of solid timber.
If I am right, then it would be far more trouble than it is worth to try and make a stable door out of it.......and you certainly can't just "put it back together"!!!
Sorry to be gloomy about your door.......but the glass does seem worth keeping. The beads holding the glass in should come off with a few well placed hammer blows and a bit of levering with a screwdriver. The door could then go off for recycling.
|Brookieme, can you try posting that photo again? There is a link on the home page "Resize"...........telling you how to do it. In the meantime, don't cut that door!!!! Mike|
|Thread: Workshop-arial view|
get rid of that propane heater!!!! They chuck out immense quantities of water vapour, as you know..........you would be far better off just using an electric fan heater.
As for insulating your roof.........can't you do better than 50mm? I reckon 100 is about the minimum you should be looking to use. The air gap over is important, and the insulation will probably reduce the amount of condensation you suffer..........(but nowhere near as much as getting rid of that gas burner).............
The key thing with the air gap under the roof sheet is to have it ventilated (keep the ends open, but do make sure you use a mesh to prevent insects, mice and birds from entering what will become an inaccessible void)..........but the ventilation should be only over the insulation, not under it!!
I've posted previously about dehumidifiers.........I think that in general circumstances they are the spawn of satan, and about as morally defensible as patio heaters. Get your workshop insulated, and DPC/ DPM sorted out, then with a bit of occasional heat and some controlled ventilation and you won't need a de-humidifier.
|Thread: stable door|
whatever you do, don't cut it! At least, not until you have had someone who knows what they are doing tell you it is OK.
Could you post a photo of it on here.............both sides please?
|Thread: Workshop-arial view|
The noose is for anyone who turns the de-humidifier on..........
|Thread: Wet Rot Wood Hardener (Ronseal)|
Cedric Wheeler wrote (see)
I am interested in how this affected the appearance of the wood, Cedric. A 400 year old piece of oak looks its age, and I'm sure you wouldn't want to alter that...........can you say a little about the finishes and the look of the wood?
|Thread: back drawer stops|
sparky wrote (see)
I actually made the runners and drawer stops today and all screwed into place. I decided not to glue them as well just in case the back turns out better than the front!
Great thinking Marc (keeping your options open re back and front)......I like that idea!!
Can you remind us what that cove looks like?
Funny, I always start with the top........habit I guess. There is no logic to it, except that I used to be afraid that I hadn't got enough wood, and so would make all the key parts first to make sure that if I had to cobble something together it would be somewhere less important .
Are you going to fix the top on with buttons?
|Thread: Mirrored doors|
you will never get the mirror out if you use silicon.........ever!
I would forget the MDF backing sheet, which is just unnecessary. Have the mirror made from 6mm glass and it will withstand most impacts. How about having the rebate to the inside of the door, not the outside. That way you can have clunky oversized beads without it spoiling the look of your doors...........and you can rout a fine moulding onto the edge of the "hole" on the outside, to give you whatever look you seek.
|Thread: back drawer stops|
no, this isn't upside down.......this is simply a view from behind. The drawers are evidently just sitting on top of each other, prior to any runners being fitted.
|Thread: Three drawers done.|
Great stuff Marc! What a patient chap you are........
|Thread: Rocking Horse|
my tip would be to send a private message to Sad Sam. I'm certain he would help you get started. There are lots of awkward looking things about a rocking horse, from specialist ironmongery to hair...........and I am sure it would be easier to hear about it straight from someone who has already done it.
My one bit of advice would be to get hold of a pneumatic drum sanding attachment for your electric drill.......its great for all the curves you'll be dealing with.
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