Here is a list of all the postings Mike Garnham has made in our forums. Click on a thread name to jump to the thread.
My sincere sympathy, Dave.
Whatever you do, don't blame yourself. Actually, pat yourself on the back that you encourage a youngster into a workshop..........and possibly start him on a lifetime's pleasure with wood.
It might be worth a little look at your machinery switches, though......I don't think a 3 year old would be strong enough for most NVR switches.
I hope you lad is 100% soon.
|Thread: Asbestos Awareness Campain|
I think the safest way is to treat all sources of asbestos as equally lethal, and give them as wide a berth as possible. It really is a slippery slope to allow people to think that some sources are more dangerous than others.
|Thread: Neighbours garden gate.jpg|
We've done this before!
The only disadvantage to having the braces in tension rather compression is the joint between the braces and the ledges. This will tend to be pulled apart rather than pushed together. In all other respects, the direction of the diagonal bracing makes not a jot of difference.
Having said that, because people are used to seeing them a certain way, there is a certain aesthetic about doors and gates, and ones the "wrong" way around can look unusual.
|Thread: Double glazed sash windows|
Mumford & Wood make some wonderful double glazed sash windows, and have working drawings on their website: just google them and have a look.
|Thread: Microwave Drying|
to insert photos into your post, click on the tree icon (third from the right, next to spellcheck) above where you type. After that it is self-explanatory, although mine seems to have developed the quirk of always placing the photo right at the beginning of the text, irrespective of where the cursor is when you click "insert". I then have to cut and paste the text around the photo.
|Thread: cabinet 2|
I was being ironic, as you being a turning man would obviously have turned the feet yourself....
..........however, irony doesn't read well, and there isn't an ironic smilie. Ho hum....
Why no more woodwork until Spring?
Who did you get to turn the feet?
|Thread: Steam bending|
no, this remains my next project. At the moment I am in metal-working mode...........next I am going to be doing some fibreglass work............it may be a couple of months until I can get stuck into another proper woodworking project. That biscuit jointer prize is certainly not going to be mine!!
Incidentally, this is the main reason I have not been posting so much lately.......
|Thread: Hegner HSM 300 Disc Sander|
Rather better than your old one Olly!!!
For the life of me though, I just cannot imagine why you would need a guard and require goggles just to use a sander.
|Thread: I`m unhinged|
The hinges you want are the side-swing hinges used for opening modern casement windows. They should enable the 2" overhang to clear the rails, and will probably fit easily onto a couple of blocks. They are sometimes known as friction stay hinges, or something similar.
|Thread: sourcing screws|
I may have some......I've quite a collection of old slot headed screws. If I've got any I'll have hundreds, and you are welcome to them. I'll look tomorrow.......if I forget, send me a PM.
|Thread: Computer Desk Design|
I know it is quite a current sort of look........but any piece of furniture that looks as though if you leant on it you would push it into a state of collapse (and I know that wouldn't happen, but thats not the point), looks quite uncomfortable to me. I know the shelves stabilise it, but you can't see them normally. The visual effect is to look weak.
I don't really have an answer to what I would do to it.............except the old joke, when asked for directions to x the response is "well, I wouldn't start from here".
Ash is nice, but it isn't an amboyna burr........and the dovetails will be nice, but, well, you get my drift......
|Thread: Softwood preferred sizes|
.....................don't get that table-extension wrong!!!! Christma dinner crashing onto the floor with a collapsed table would give the guests something to talk about for a while!!
timber sizes are a minefield!
Most metric sizes are imperial equivalents (you'll see lots of 13mm, 19mm etc). 47mm is what is left from the old standard 4"x2" when it is sawn down (thus you will get 2 no. 47 x 50's from one 4x2 !! Bizarre but logical).
Don't trust anyone's measurements...........particularly for PAR or PSE (planed) timber. They only have to change the blades on the thicknessing machines and the next batch will be a different size. Planed timber is often given as an "ex" or nominal size ......eg ex 25x50 PAR will be planed from 25 x 50 and will probably be about 20x45 in actuality. Subtracting 5mm from the sawn sizes is a good rule-of-thumb for planed sizes, but not infallible!!
You are doing the right thing starting with pine, and you will learn a lot quickly using it. It isn't actually that easy to work well, being soft and fibrous. You'll need really sharp tools, especially chisels, if you are hand-making joints and want them to look good.
You timber merchant will produce a leaflet detailing all the standard timber sizes and mouldings......but always take a tape measure with you when you go buying timber.
|Thread: Bandsaw sparks!|
oh I see!! I was in completely the wrong part of your machine........
The bearing you refer to should spin freely if you flick it. This plainly needs replacing. When you put the new one in, remember to align it such that when the back of the blade makes contact with it, it is only touching the spinning out ring of the thrust bearing. If the contact is too near the middle, it may well rub on something it shouldn't, as well as being at too steep an angle with the rim to spin it. This is when you end up with a score mark.
|Thread: shellac or danish|
I really would have left it unfinished for a while yet.........
sanding sealer isn't really a finish. It is a surface preparation prior to the application of a finish.
|Thread: Gallery Competition|
Out where? This car is in Namibia! And if any bugger lets the tyres down to ride their bike over it, I'll....
- get my big brother.
Well, I would if I had one.
.......or a Garnham shelter for an eco warrier.......!!
I'd love to see anyone ride their bike up the steps into that!
No, its a new version of this:
The Garnham Mark 3 rooftent......
|Thread: Bandsaw sparks!|
I presume you mean the top wheel?
Firstly, I would unplug the machine,even take the drive belt off if it helps, then wearing a heavy duty pair of gloves I would feed the blade around by hand with the door open and see if you can hear or feel any obstruction, fouling or interference.
Secondly, I would remove the blade and just examine the movement of the wheel very carefully. Is there any wobble.? Is there any squeaking or roughness that would indicate a bearing failure?
Finally, I would make up a straight edge with sideways extensions to make sure that the upper and lower wheels are running exactly in line with each other. This is awkward to check with all the stuff in the way, but worth doing.
Any doubt about the bearing, just whip the wheel off and press a new bearing, or pair of bearings in. Its only a 10 mintues job and the bearings should only be £3 or £4 each.
If none of the above helps......wait for someone who knows what they are talking about to come along!!!
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