Here is a list of all the postings Roger Provins has made in our forums. Click on a thread name to jump to the thread.
|Thread: Planer Thicknesser PT 85 or PT 106|
The only thing I'd draw to your attention is that both these machines use extremely noisy brush motors. For a while I had the Fox version of the PT106 (they all come from the far east and are much the same machines with different badges) but it was deafening to use, I could use ear defenders but the rest of the household and neighbours couldn't so I sold it on and bought an induction motored SIP 01550 - much quieter and more pleasant to use! Even though they come with legs these can easily be removed and the machine used on a bench - although they are very heavy to move about.
|Thread: What do people thing of Axminster Bandsaws?|
I've had the Axminster AWHBS350n for a few years and can't fault it. I put a decent blade on (from Tuffsaws) right from the start.
|Thread: Triton MOF001 problem|
I ended up buying the part, only a few quid, couldn't be bothered messing about a guarantee claim and have the router back in use was more important.
Just to finish this thread. I ended up getting a new worm gear and it took about ten minutes to fit. All fine now.
|Thread: Dado blades|
There is a good summation of the current H&S situtation on dado blades at
|Thread: missing free gift|
For many years I used to subscribe to Amateur Photographer and it was routine to cancel the sub at the end of the year and then re-subscribe - thus getting a better price and the freebie. In fact the subscription department first suggested doing it when I queried the situation that new subscribers were getting better terms than existing renewers.
|Thread: yew wood|
Yew does affect me slightly but more skin irritation than breathing. I once unknowingly got some shavings down a sock and that evening I found my foot was patchily bright red!
For me Iroko is the worst - brings on all the symptoms of impending flu.
Edited By Roger Provins on 07/02/2012 07:27:41
|Thread: Router Table and Router|
I have a Triton MOF001 1400w router and through my own fault* stripped the fine adjuster worm gear. I bought a new part for a few pounds and found it very easy to fit - about 15 minutes. I was told that there was a brass (instead of nylon) replacement available but I never did find a source so ended up with a nylon one. I can't speak highly enough of the MOF001 - excellent in all ways. Have a look here. for a review.
* I was using an electric screwdriver to raise and lower the bit and the worm stripped in the end through over use. I'm sure there would not have been a problem had I stuck to winding it manually
Rutlands have a nice router table on offer at the moment.
Edited By Roger Provins on 03/02/2012 05:44:09
|Thread: Latest Mag|
|Very nice work Mailee and a good interesting, comprehensive article.|
|Thread: Dovetailed Jewelry Box|
Very nice! Too late now but small amounts of genuine baize available here
|Thread: SIP Disc/Belt Sander 01926|
I have the Draper version which looks identical. All these machines are from the far east with a paint job and a badge to order. I've had it for at least 10 years and it's given no problems. I broke the dust deflector plate (mine own fault) but was pleasantly surprised to find all the spares were available an quite cheap and very quickly posted.
|Thread: Bust Bandsaw|
Looks like a novice attempt at welding
Please let us know how you get on APTC are renowned for their customer service so you should be okay.
|Thread: Triton MOF001 problem|
|Thanks Sam, I've filled in their form. Now wait to see what happens.|
I've had a Triton MOF001 for a few months and been happy with it - until now. The fine adjuster mechanism has failed and I understand there's a known fault with a nylon cog that strips.
Anyone have a email address for Triton? I've tried a couple through websites but had no response, is there a known working email address?
|Thread: November Woodworking Mag|
I get ...
"File not foundFirefox can't find the file at http://www.mydigitalmagazine.co.uk/de/5/1268/.
Check the file name for capitalisation or other typing errors.
Check to see if the file was moved, renamed or deleted."
... randomly when try to access the October issue of Woodworker, sometimes it will, sometimes it won't. There's no November shown - all the others open okay.
Latest issue of GW shown is the "Winter Special Projects and Plans" and that opens okay.
Edited By Roger Provins on 11/11/2011 06:03:57
|Thread: Identity of this mystery orange hardwood?|
Could it be Obeche? Images here
|Thread: Tenon Saw Brand?|
It occurs to me there is another way. I don't know if you go to car-boots, I do, and from time to time find goodies like this ...
... a pre 1914 Disston brass-back which is about as good as they get. I paid £2 or so (I forget) and now its been sharpened it's really superb.
In the last year or so I've picked up about 10 different brass back tenon and dovetails saws this way. Collecting old tools is a dangerous addiction
Worth a thought?
Edited By Roger Provins on 19/09/2011 17:04:54
|Thread: Absolute Novice - Working WIth Wood|
We've all been tempted I'm sure but when the time comes to buy tools/machinery don't buy cheap ones. You'll only regret it later when you find out why they were cheap. Ask on here for opinions before you buy.
Good luck and I know you'll enjoy your retirement and the hobby!
|Thread: Tenon Saw Brand?|
Two reasonably priced makes are Roberts & Lee and Pax, both make very nice but still reasonably priced saws, £70-£100 depending on which one and and the retailer. Veritas also do great saws but, strangely, not one they call a tenon saw.
Of course there are some exotic brands where the sky's the limit but I think it's doubtful if they'll cut any better than the above.
You're right to keep away from hardpoint (non-resharpenable) site type saws, cheap and cheerful but you'll not be happy with them in the long run.
Edited By Roger Provins on 18/09/2011 08:01:42
|Thread: A clock case for my clock!|
I really can't see enough of the construction to offer more than a generalised guess as to how the case has been made. I will say that if you have done little/no previous cabinet making this is jumping in blind at the deepest end! Good luck!
The door curved piece is probably cut from the solid and that and all the other door pieces could be joined by mitred half lap joints (or much more technically challenging joints).
The case top and bottom curved parts are possibly heat/steam bent to shape or, more probably (especially the bottom), laminated from several thinner parts.
The glass will be fitted into rebates machined into the rear of the frames. The back appears to be a built-up slab and joined to the front by pieces probably with dovetail joints.
Of course there's a lot more to it than that and bear in mind that his case was obviously built by a master craftsman who may have used any number of advanced techniques.
Edited By Roger Provins on 13/09/2011 06:38:49
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