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Member postings for Eugene Anderson

Here is a list of all the postings Eugene Anderson has made in our forums. Click on a thread name to jump to the thread.

Thread: New Home Made Tool
26/01/2013 16:27:20

Can you do a close-up of the tip?

Andy

Thread: Dark oak stain
26/01/2013 16:21:10
Posted by Peter Farnell on 12/01/2013 14:44:15:

I am refinishing two small dark oak table tops for a friend to remove scratches and dents in the surface. I scraped and sanded the tops to the original wood and dicovered they are veneered and capped blockboard with a very thin veneer. I now need to stain the tops to mac=tch the frames. I tried a commercial (Wickes) dark oak stain but it produces a "zebra" effect because the stain doesn't take on the denser parts of the grain. Do I need to use a pigmented filler of some sort and how is it best applied? Any advice would be very welcome.

Peter, only just seen your post so expect I am a little late.

To solve your problem (It sounds as though you have gone through the veneer) I can see the only way to get a consistant surface and thereby a consistant finish would be to re-veneer the tables.

The top would need to be flattened and clean but then the world is your oyster as regards to veneering, maybe some Oak burr in the centre surrounded by oak cross-banding, with a biy of black line separating the two.

I don't know if you are being paid for the job or if it a favour but I can't see filler doing the job.

Andy

Thread: help with bookmatched table
19/01/2013 10:52:11
Posted by Keith Smith on 07/01/2013 23:39:32:

The main problem of making wide mitres is that the joint will almost certainly open up at the front edge as the wood dries out. You could do with finding out its moisture content which should be about 10% for this job but I would expect it to be about 16% if it has been stored outside. There is no easy cure and other than getting it kiln dried I would think that you would be better off if you store the timber in the house for six months at least. Sorry to put a dampener on things but this type of joint is always a problem even with kiln dried timber.

Then use biscuits, or even better, insert a plywood spline almost full length of the joint.

Andy

Thread: Box turning videos
16/06/2012 14:43:26

I am new to turning and would like to do some turned boxes to compliment the jewellery boxes I make, does anyone have any box turning video's they wish to sell? Cindy Drozda or others? I have the Richard Raffan one but he goes at it like a bull in a china shop, seems to be for people who are already experts.

Andy

Thread: Fly tying box
01/05/2012 18:36:57

Got that last post a bit wrong, the 'now finished' was supposed to be at the start. Doh!

01/05/2012 18:30:09

Now finished

Thread: chess set
03/04/2012 20:29:20

Ian,

What would you charge for a set of chess-men like yours?

Andy

Thread: fading colour
03/04/2012 20:25:34

Why not use a outdoor uv protecting oil (osmo) and wax it when dry, just 'cos it's made for outdoor stuff (and will protect from the effects of uv rays for up to five years) doesn't mean it can't be used for stuff indoors and being protected from the weather I would have thought the effect would last much longer.

Andy

Thread: Saw aftercare,
19/03/2012 19:23:46

A couple of years ago I had a blade specifically ground (2.8mm, flat top teeth) for me by Atkinson Walker, about a year later it developed a slight wobble which obviously increased the size of the slot, gave them a ring and was told to send it back, he was most disgusted that one of their blades was not up to scratch. The blade was duly sorted and sent back F.O.C. And no questions asked. Well done A.W. and I wish some our other British companies would take a leaf out of their book.

Andy

Thread: Steam Bending
19/03/2012 19:08:38

Inspirational piece of work.

Thread: Fly tying box
08/03/2012 16:40:13

Slowly making progress, it is made from spalted sycamore with walnut trim and eucalyptus veneer. The trays are sapele and still have to have some dividers fitted. The section front left is where the vice is stored and flips out so that the vice can then be clamped to it for use.

Is it me or does anyone else have problems with this site crashing ev five minutes?ry

Fly tying box

Fly tying box 2

Fly tying box 3

Fly tying box 4

Fly tying box 5

Thread: New to turning
07/03/2012 11:20:59

Derek, You obviously know what you're doing winning competitions like that.

Now onto the subject of sharpening. It seems that you have to keep touching up the chisels on a regular basis and after watching some video's on youtube, there seems to be a lot of burnt edges out there, this to me seems mad, to buy expensivetools and then destroy the integrity of the metal by over heating them, especially on a fine, thin edge. I was looking at the Axi wet grinder http://www.axminster.co.uk/axminster-axminster-awwsg-wetstone-grinder-prod809134/#bottomsection and thought that touching up the edges on a slow running wetstone would be more beneficial, more accurate and more gentle on your cutting edges.

Any comment and advice would be greatly appreciated.

Andy

06/03/2012 18:21:13

Thanks for all the help guys. well, it went from looking at some Faithfull chisels then to the Axminster set but after reading your advice I settled for some Robert Sorby and found a set (new) on ebay. http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/200687240657?ssPageName=STRK:MEWNX:IT&_trksid=p3984.m1439.l2649#ht_3232wt_932

Derek, I expect my first picture will be of some sawdust but it will be nice sawdust!!!

Andy

05/03/2012 10:06:38

Derek, many thanks for the advice, I think it always helps to get help from someone who knows what they are talking about and who has been down the same road.

I have since found there is a thriving club not 15 minutes from me here in Lincolnshire so I will be paying them a visit.

Just have to start saving now for the tools.......

Best of luck paul, hope you have some fun.

Andy

04/03/2012 21:19:39

Guy's,

I have just got a small lathe and would like to ask for advice on which chisels to get to kick off with, I got it with the intention of turning some legs and handles etc for the boxes I make but I cannot see it stopping there and know I will have to have a go at other stuff so I would need some that would see me through a variety of basic tasks.

Ta.

Andy

Thread: How to keep Holly white after cutting?
03/03/2012 16:41:27

Would appreciare the results of the conversation but I must say these are too big to boil, haven't got a saucepan big enough!!!

Holly log 1

Holly log 2

28/02/2012 06:44:25

I have some logs of Holly but, after trying this before, I know it will stain an ugly blotchy blueish colour. Does anyone know how to prevent this happening?

Andy

Thread: Filling holes in veneer
22/02/2012 15:10:46

In his Basic Veneering Techniques (video 1) Peter Dunsmoor spoke about the holes in a piece of Burr Walnut, is there any chance he might do another video on how to deal with these holes.

Thread: Ercol Restoration Project
10/02/2012 10:23:28
Steve, The only thing I know is how to tell if it's Shellac is to wipe it with some Meths, if it has no effect then it's varnish, shellac will come off.
Andy
Thread: Dovetailed Jewelry Box
21/01/2012 19:18:54
Richard, As far as good box hardware goes, it is always expensive but if you are going to all that trouble to turn out a nice box then it is a shame to spoil it with tacky brass, and it will show.
The best place I know is Ian Hawthorne, Box-maker extrordinair, you get two sets of screws (machine screws) one to fit the hinge/lock and one set for the final fitting, you also get a drill bit for the holes, he is here http://hawthornecrafts.com/box-hardware/
 
I get my lining from e-bay, do a search for velvet material, there are some nice colours and for a few quid you get fairly large pieces, I glue (mounting glue) mine to thin card, do a test piece first to see what the finished size will be then you know how much smaller you need to cut the card, then stick it in with prit-stick.
 
Andy
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