Here is a list of all the postings Cedric Wheeler has made in our forums. Click on a thread name to jump to the thread.
|Thread: Plans for child's wheelbarrow|
I have some plans for a child's wheelbarrow that came from a Woodworker magazine about 50 years ago. My late father made one for my children (who are now over 50!). I wanted to put them on the forum but when I try and download them to my album the page is too big although it is only A4 size.
Am I doing something wrong?
I have plans for a child's wheelbarrow that my late father made for my children over 50 years ago! They are only photocopies from a woodworker magazine so are not of the highest quality. However, I have managed to get a readable copy on my printer for you to be able to make a wheelbarrow. You might need to scale down the sizes for your requirements. If you would like to contact me on 01579362143 & provide me with your address I will post the drawings to you.
|Thread: Cedric's bandsaw|
Thank you for your interesting post. I still have this machine & use it regularly.
I think that my machine predates your time there as it is all cast aluminium except for the saw table that is cast iron.
It also has a Burman modified motorcycle gearbox on it giving two speeds, one of which is slow enough that it can be used to cut aluminium or hard plastic.
The gearbox is grease filled not oil and I understand that this box was first made in 1936 & changed to oil filled in 1951 which more or less dates my machine. As you say this may be a modification ex factory.
Do you know when this saw was first made by Willow?
|Thread: Bandsaw - Ripping down|
Here are a few extra ideas that might help with your problem.
Firstly buy a good quality blade as cheap blades are often a problem. There are quite a few blade manufacturers just google it and they will come up. I use a 3 tpi skip tooth 1/2in blade. Any thing less than 1/2in wide will always track.
Try increasing your blade tension a little at a time as that can make a big difference. Also make sure that you do not force feed the wood into the blade, let it cut at its own speed. It will invariably run off if you push it too hard.
Make sure that the rear blade support is set so that immediately you start to cut it engages with the back of the blade & that your side guides are set just behind the teeth to give maximum support.
If all this fails you can do away with the parallel guides and make up a hardwood wooden vertical fence about 20mm wide. radius this slightly, an then position it at right angles to the blade and slightly forward of the cutting edge so that it guides the wood into the blade. You can then control the cut by moving the wood slightly left or right to counteract any tendency to track off when cutting.
Hope that this helps.
|Thread: replacing belt on myford mystro|
Have only just seen his post so you may have solved the problem already.
I had the same problem with my Myford metal turning lathe.
You can buy segmented or toothed belting which is made up of segments that clip together so that you can then feed it round the pulleys without taking half the machine to bits.
Hope this helps.
|Thread: Removing rust from hand tools|
I spray all my tools ( including lathe beds and chucks etc) at the onset of the cold weather with WD40 then just wipe off the excess. This will normally keep them clean until it warms up again.
|Thread: how to seal chipboard worktop joints|
I use wet rot wood hardener for this job. It is thinner than PVA so will soak into the wood better. allow to dry between coats and continue until the chipboard wont soak up any more. I recently put new worktops in my kitchen and put six coats of hardener on.
|Thread: Dewalt Planner Thicknesser D27300 out feed table adjustment|
It sounds to me as if something is out of alignment. If you have a long straight edge I suggest that you bring the feed table up and then check that the two tables are in alignment ie see that the straight edge touches right across the two feeds. If it is not right you might have to pack the mounting of the out table to correct the problem.
|Thread: Rocking Swan|
I have recently finished this rocking Swan for my Cousin's Grandchild. This design was first published in Practical Woodworking in about 1971 and I first made it over 20 years ago for my own Grandchildren. I have modified this one to make it possible to flat pack it as I had to send it by courier.
|Thread: sip 01489 tyres|
I was the person who posted the way to make tyres yourself. I have just reposted this to another person so if you go to my posting of 23/02/2014 'Cedric's Bandsaw' you will see how to do it. If you have any queries please come back to me.
|Thread: Cedric's bandsaw|
I made my own bands from 3mm thick rubber sheet that has a cotton core so that it doesn't stretch. I cut strips the right width and slightly longer than the circumference of the wheels and then glued them on with contact adhesive. Overlap the ends then cut through both layers with a sharp Stanley knife so that you get a perfect join. I then crowned the wheels by sticking 60grit paper on a small block of wood and while running the machine, sand the belts to get them slightly higher in the middle. It doesn't have to be very much but will then make it easier to get your blades to run true. You can do the driven wheel before putting on a blade but have to run with a blade on for the other two wheels, just keep your fingers out of the way of the blade!
My machine has been running successfully now for over three years and I use it regularly.
SAFETY NOTICE: Woodworking is a potentially dangerous activity. Methods of work described or pictured by forum members should be judged by the individual woodworker for safety at all times. Please ensure you are familiar with your tools, research the relevant guidelines on safety and always make sure you are adequately protected when working with power tools and machinery.
Edited By Steven on 06/03/2014 11:36:15
|Thread: Ash doors|
As those doors are only 10 years old I would think that they would have been finished with a clear satin finish lacquer. I would suggest that you first wash them down with dishwashing liquid in water as they are bound to have a certain amount of grease and dirt especially round the handles and leading edges. I would then try using some oooo wire wool on them which may clean them up. If this didn't work you may have to use paint stripper on them to remove the old varnish/lacquer. You can then choose what finish you want to put on them such as new varnish or danish oil which will give them a satin finish but dries hard like lacquer.
|Thread: turned pens|
I like your pens Dennis. This is something I have often promised myself I would have a go at but have never got around to it. A good idea for xmas presents. Regards Cedric
|Thread: Banksia Nuts|
Thanks Brucie, Dennis & Ian for your comments. The hardest part was taxing my brain for three months trying to work out what to do with them! Regards Cedric
|Thread: commission offer|
Hi Russell Can you put up a drawing of this so that I can see exactly what you want. It doesn't sound too difficult. Cedric
|Thread: Saw blade vibration|
Hi John. Sorry this is a bit late but have you checked that the saw blade is running paralel to the fence because if not this will cause scuffing? Cedric
|Thread: Banksia Nuts|
Sorry folks Some how I managed to delete the narrative. I was given some Bamksia Nuts for an Xmas present and wanted to do something a bit different, so I bored ouy the centres to 40mm to accomodate a LED candle lamp with ES fitting to illuminate the holes in the nut. This was done on my myford Metal turning lathe with a boring bar as the centres are very hard. The top turned portion is a separate piece to cover the lamp fitting ( also an ES lamp holder) and the base is Iroko to accomodate the inner lamp fitting. The finish is several coats of brushing french polish put on with an airbrush.
|Thread: Selecta Home Workshop (circa 1950s)|
I have the very same machine which I rescued from it's journey to the local tip! Miine has had the drill mounting plate modified to take a more modern drill but is otherwise the same as yours. I don't have any manual etc on this but it will take a small circular saw blade that fits on a small shaft that goes in the drill. However, this is only suitable to cut small pieces of timber and I would not use this as I have a large bandsaw & a radial arm saw.
My father had one of these when I was a child so I was familar with it. This is a fantasticly versatile piece of kit and there is nothing on the market now to touch it. It is possible to set this machine to drill holes at virtually any angle you would possibly require and also compound angles.
Whatever you do hang on to it and play with it and I am sure that you will be surprised at it's versatility.
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