Here is a list of all the postings Delete has made in our forums. Click on a thread name to jump to the thread.
|Thread: Butterfly drop leaf table|
You slipped up there admiting you used a matching pair of cuters. Like the cake adds you should have wound us all up by saying they were cut by hand!!! A lovely piece of furniature. Very well done.
Edited By Roger B on 13/12/2009 19:56:53
|Thread: Look closely ?|
I dont go much on the Charity scene but Well done Marc. It would have been nice to see the whole thimg. Then we could see it it would make a chair leg!!
|Thread: Wood Shavings|
I hear what you say about the small print. I have insurance through the Caravan Club specifically for Caravaners. I also have their Recovery as well a very good policy.
Three things to look at when buying a People carrier One is insurance. They do come out more than a car. The reason is they can carry 7 or 8 people and if in an accident there is the posibility of a big claim.
The second thing is the Fuel costs. I had a Ford Galaxy for a while. It was a great vehicle but damned thirsty on Petrol.
Third Look at the Vin Plate on the Drivers Door frame and look at the Max vehicle and axle weight. Although you might get 80 sheets of Ply in the Back I suspect you could be close to the Max weight if not over it. The same with the car. The Mondeo I now drive A full tank of Fuel Me, Rather on the fat side She who must be obeyed, Even more so. We have about 100Kgs spare for load. Two decent sized people and we could be over the weight Limit. OK i know cars dont often get pulled for weight but the point is they can be.
As fir what to do with the chippins from the Planer Thicknesser. My Scheppach is realy a Kitty Litter Machine. The babes dont complain about chippings in their litter cage. When it comes to dust. II think a little common sense should be used. If we breathe in saw dust in any reasonable quantity we get problems animals have a similar respritory system only smaller so I guess any dust can cause them a problem. Compost it or bury it in the garden. Regardless of what has been said it will rot down. I have had no complaints from the worms.
|Thread: scroll saw blades|
Hi I thought Axminster Did them
|Thread: Advent calendar|
Come on folks these things happen. You started the day without what ever the prize was, you are no worse off now than you were last week Yesterday or tommorow. The only thing you can be certain with computers is they will go wrong, crash, or do something unexpected just when you wanted to do something you considered of great importance.
Dont be greedy. So far with this Advent thing I have given you all a Christmas present, one more chance of winning. I have done that by not entering. If we all did that dear old Marc would stand a chance. Good luck to you
Edited By Roger B on 10/12/2009 19:40:45
|Thread: Hurling Sticks|
The only Lathe duplicator I am aware of only cuts one piece at a time. I bought one but I was in Hueston Texas at the time. It can be found at
I hope this is of help
Here is a link to the machine
|Thread: International Woodworking Exhibition 2010|
Dont you believe it we can get just as heavey snow in March as January. Doesnt often happen but it can
|Thread: Trend Scrappage Scheme|
Go for it the T10 is good the T11 was not out when I bought mine, otherwise I might have gone T11
|Thread: Cyclone Pre-separator|
Two things . One where is the dust going is it being collected in the Camvac.or is it being blown out of the Elephants trunks. I think I would route them to the outside world.
Two what is the design inside the poly bin you are using as a pre seperator.
I guess you could reduce the depth of the collection bag on the CamVac.
The CamVac looks similar to the Record 5000 I have that is also a twin motor and very efficient
|Thread: Splintering plywood with a circular saw|
I personally dont give a **** for people shooting me down in flames. I am now retired. I do make errors when marking out hence double checking. The veneer on ply these days is so thin to remove a pencil line can reduce the thickness significantly. I was working on a Boat for The Woodworker a couple of years or so ago and if the project had not been killed it would have shown masking tape marking out.
Do what you are happy with and if it works for you then it is the right way (for you).
Come to think of it perhaps that why it was killed. May bee Mr Roberts didnt like my methods WHo knows, Who cares.
Edited By Roger B on 05/12/2009 22:04:34
|Thread: Chair Article in Magazine|
Perhaps a practical Sculptor
|Thread: Pro-Work router bits|
Well if they are cheap enough buy some . If they are rubbish you wont have lost a lot if they are half reasonable then you are on a win. I guess they will possibly be run of the mill . I prefer to use TC bits. They cost more but keep their edge.
|Thread: Trend Scrappage Scheme|
No dis respect to trend but it is an offer I will not be taking up. I have 2 Routers which I am more than happy with. An Elu which is realy nice for hand use and a big Trend in the Table. Neither need replacing so Sorry Trend, No Go.
|Thread: Filling the void|
You could use the technique this time. It will fill the void and make the whole job a lot more stable and strong.
I have to admit I had never heard of boring a hole to stop warping I guess the wood removed will never warp.
Best of luck
|Thread: Steve's New Camvac installed|
I have been thinking of modifying the bag unit and making it a ridgid bin that clips on a seal. it will have to be strong I tried the idea with a plastic dust bin and the suction was enough to colapse the bin. I am thinking now in terms of a wheelie bin.
Most electricians when asked to wite a workshop / shed will do a Domestic job.
Dont get me wrong there is nothing wrong with this. However I would always reccomend making a connection to the workshop as heavey an you can afford 60 to 80 amp. If cost is a concern then an underground cable should be avoided.
When the cable gets to the workshop feed it to a split consumer unit with 12 ways, including an ELCB and Master switch.
Rather than feed all the power points via a ring main rated at 30 amp fit double 13 amp sockets supplied from their own 13 amp trip. Normally you will be running only one thing at a time from each socket pair. Where you have a couple of battery chargers they will be drawing very little and the 13 amp supply will be OK . You can run a 16 amp machine from this system quite easily as follows.
Instead of fitting wires for 13 amp fit wires for 16 amp. If in the future you decide you need a 16 amp socket at a specific location all you have to do is change the trip and fit a 16 amp socket.
Remember you are the customer and as long as you dont want something which is contary to the 17th edition of the Regulations every one is happy. It is just a matter of working out your spec. Most factories have each machine running from its own supply. This is for good reason. If one Machine has to be isolated you dont want to put the whole workshop out.
My workshop is supplied from an 80 amp supply via a check meter so I can see haow much juice I am using a bit of an over likk as I have not looked at it in the past 18 months..
I also advocate running all the wiring in conduit rather than using Twin and earth on the surface. It does mean you can change wires easily if required.
I hope this makes sense
|Thread: Filling the void|
I would use a method of making the legs for the bed. Using a cheaper wood for the inside of the leg and surfacing the post with quarter sawn oak will give good stability and extra strength. Have a look at this site there is a video series on building a bed. you will see what i mean.........
This method saves money and does make a strong product. Laminated timber is stronger than the equivalent thickness of solid
Edited By sparky on 03/12/2009 04:51:16
|Thread: oak off cuts free to good home|
What part of the country are you in. Your profile does not say?
|Thread: Qtr sawn Oak or Sycamore|
Have you been using Bamptons for long? I think they are a great timber Merchant although that is realy to supply their production Shop.
|Thread: Planer Thicknesser Advice|
I would slightly disagree with Olly. Not in what he says but the Order.
First check the Table is square to the cutter drum. Then check the Fence is square. This is for the surface Planer.
Once you are happy with the table / drum alignment check the thicknesser table for true to the drum .
Although makers do supply tools to help wit setting the knives they are not realy required. I alwas use a scrap piese of wood. If the planer is set so the knives are just flush with the table you can get an idea if they look as though they might be about right. If all looks reasonable raise the knives a fraction above the table, the exact ammount does not matter. Place a piece of wood over the knives so it is sitting on the in feed table and the outfeed table place a pencil mark on the table at the end of the wood then rotate the knife drum so one knife comes up touches the wood lifting it and moling the wood along the table. noe measure the distance the wood has moved. Do this at each edge of the knife and also in the middle this will show you if the knife is level if not adjust the knife and test again. when one knife is OK do the others make certain the knives are moving the wood the same distance this will show they are set at the same height.
Yes this job is a bit labourious and fiddley but well worth doing carefully. The process should be done every time you change the knives or sharpen them.
It is worth checking the mechanics on the machine before doing any set up. There may be cogs and chains driving the raise and lower mechanism make certain theu are clean and lightly oiled. You dont want the machine swimming in oil but you dont want the moving bits rusting.
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