Here is a list of all the postings Doug has made in our forums. Click on a thread name to jump to the thread.
|Thread: Exhibitions in 2013|
Years ago I used to go to all the shows in England as a matter of course because I enjoyed meeting up with friends who were exhibiting, demonstrating or just attending.
For the last couple of years I`ve only bothered with the European show & the Harrogate show, difficult to choose a favourite& both well worth visiting, just a shame they fall so close together.
|Thread: Cancellation of subscription|
|Thread: We wish you a Merry Christmas!|
Seasons greetings to all & best wishes for the new year.
Hope all is now as well as can be Derek & that your Christmas is a great one.
|Thread: Router bits-metric sizes|
Usually when you buy a set of cutters the 1/2 inch refers to the shank size.
It is possible to get metric sized cutters on imperial shanks, in fact this is quite common.
As to making a metric sized cut with an imperial sized cutter, most cuts are dependent on the settings made to the router,eg depth width etc, so finished size doesn`t always relate to the size of the cutter.
That said, a slot cut with a 1/4" cutter will only give a 1/4" slot, but a second pass with the router moved over a tad can give a 7, 8 or 9mm slot etc.
The most important thing is to make sure the collet in your router is the correct size for the shank size of your cutters eg 1/2" collet for 1/2" shank, 12mm collet for 12mm shank.
|Thread: ebonized and gilded turning|
Richard, most artists supplies shops sell gilding wax in many colours, I get mine for around £6 a tube.
I tend to use spirit stain first, apply the wax & then clean it off with a citrus based oil like lemon oil.
This works best on open grained timber like oak or ash, you can use an ebonising spray as a base but I find it too dark, which is why I prefer the spirit stain base as it allows the wood to show through more.
|Thread: Plunge or Table Saw|
A track saw will give you far more accuracy £ for £ than a table saw & take up far less space.
£500 will set you up with a top quality saw, track & accessories be that Festool or Mafell, for that same amount of money you would only get a very basic table saw.
Since buying a TS55 tracksaw I`ve moved my table saw out of the workshop as it was getting so little use. I would add I do have a bandsaw to cover the cutting a tracksaw wont do, that said a 75mm depth of cut track saw would give equal depth of cut as most cheap table saws.
The biggest plus for me is cutting sheet materials, it is so much easier to pass a light power tool over a heavy board than try & accurately push a heavy board through a table saw.
|Thread: Been Busy|
Wondered where you`d got to, hadn`t seen any posts from you for a while, looks like you`ve been very productive in your absence & had a birthday
Lovely work as usual.
|Thread: north of england woodworking show|
If the speculation is to be believed, it sounds like the show is going to be better than ever, I do hope so.
I`m hoping to get there on Saturday, there are usually a few old faces from here at the show (sadly they don`t post any more) so it will be good to catch up with them.
& as Dennis suggests if anyone will be there on Saturday & wants to meet up, just say.
|Thread: Annettes angel|
Tell her very well done Les.
|Thread: wood turning|
I had an unusual request for a handle for a lawn roller a couple of weeks ago.
The roller is a garden ornament rather than a regularly used tool, but the old handle had completely rotted away.
I made the replacement from Oak, The customer was more than happy with it.
Really like that Derek
Something a bit different.
|Thread: Garage Door|
Personally I wouldn`t go for C16, it tends to be fast grown white wood.
If sawn redwood is available & in budget I`d go for that, otherwise I`d be looking for reclaimed pine, which if you can get in the sizes you need would be ideal.
|Thread: Record BK3 MKII|
Hi Gill & welcome.
I would recommend giving Ian at Tuff saws a ring, very helpful & will answer your questions.
His site is **LINK**
|Thread: Woodturning for Small Product-Design Prototype Required|
Richard Findley is a professional turner based in Wigston, Leicestershire, he takes on commissions.
|Thread: Replacement Stair Balustrade|
Like Al says I would also go for further coats of Danish oil,
Try burning a couple of candles in the same room, away from the oil, whilst applying the oil & while it`s going off.
SWMBO always burns candles when I do any decorating & it does seem to help.
|Thread: tormek problems|
Sounds like your stone needs truing up.
Did the machine come with one of http://www.powertooldirect.co.uk/tormek_tt-50_tt50_diamond_truing_tool_replaces_adv50d_tormek-p-76997.html
|Thread: club comp|
I`d suggest you tell the chairman & judge to get hold of copies of the late great Bill Jones`s books, read them & then say chess pieces aren`t turning....I find their comments unbelievable.
Half the entries in my local club competition have far more work done on them after the piece has been turned, such as colouring, carving, piercing & decorating, but it`s still classed as turned work & open for competition entry.
|Thread: What do people thing of Axminster Bandsaws?|
I`ve recently bought an Axminster bandsaw & am very pleased with it, particularly the guide bearings which seem well thought out.
I can post a review if anyone is interested.
|Thread: fading colour|
Andy King recommended acrylic lacquer many years ago as a finish which slows down the yellowing of Ash on finished pieces & I`ve found it very effective.
A bed I made for my son from Ash 3 years ago resides under a window & so far has shown little change in colour, though I would add it gets only the late afternoon sun.
I`ve started using Chestnut`s acrylic aerosol lacquer on my turned work & so far have been happy with the results. last years competition entry for my local club was made from chestnut burr finished in sprayed lacquer & is on a south facing window cill & whilst it has deepen in colour the change isn`t as marked as other pieces on the cill finished with oils & waxes.
|Thread: Refurbishing 0ld Wooden Planes|
Any chance of a photo of your new acquisition?
My personal view is to do as little as possible to the plane, just what is necessary to get it producing shavings. To this end my first task would be to sharpen the blade, re-fit it & try the plane out, this will be the best guide to what needs rectifying, if anything.
Good luck with it.
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