Here is a list of all the postings Sam has made in our forums. Click on a thread name to jump to the thread.
|Thread: Sound proofing|
Sorry for not mentioning the battening it out , but was just going by the fact that PJ mentioned he didnt want to expand the size to greatly , could use as little as 10mm batten , which would still do the job aswell .Try using a copper or alu fixing to as they will last longer than a BZP nail as when they start to rust it will leach a red rust stain on to the wood .
Try using a breathable roofing membrane ie tyvek , klobber ect , fit it to the studs using felt nails or a heavy duty stapler , you only need enough fixings to hold it in place til the boards are fitted , needs to tight enough to not leave any flex in it , when fixing the F/E boards ( horizontaly ) you need to allow 25 mm overlap per board , and only one fixing per boards per stud , in the thicker side which will be at the bottom and overlapping the previous board , to many fixings will aid its splitting when it moves between the warm dry seasons and wet winter seasons . the breathable roofing membrane isnt cheap so it might be worth trying to blag a part roll from a roofer near you and allow atleast 150 mm overlap on it unlessit has a minimum overlap marked on it .
hope this helps
Hi Mike , sorry if my username offends , but it was a nicname given to me when I first started on site , has stuck ever since , and that is a long time , and it bears no relevation to colour or creed , my real name is Sam .
As for the " no building material sweats " is true as far as the material goes , but if you have a timber cladding system it will never be air tight no matter how well you force the joints together , and as soon as the air moisture content rises you will find it's way in and as soon as it finds a barrier of a different temperature it will condensate , and will at some point evaporate again , but in the mean time it will lay against this surface .basicaly it will find its way into the stud stucture by means of air gaps or poorly maintained cladding that will act like a sponge and track through , once in the cavity it will condensate against the insulation and the studs , this then lays there and when the temperature rises again it will condensate ( sweat ) . Yes the ideal material to use would eb a breathable moisture barrier or heavy duty polythene barrier but that can only be done if you have not fitted the cladding yet .
As for the cavity yes , idealy you want the cavity on the outer side of the cavity , but ever tried retroffiting it that way ! And the void you will create by pushing the insulation to the outer side will act as part of the sound muffling system along with the rockwall , it works by bouncing the sound from the internal skin against the mineral insulation and therefore dampning the sound , there are always the ideal ways to fit a system but sometmes you have to compromise certain elements of it because you have to fit a retro fit system .
I run a very successful building company and my brother inlaw runs a very successful damp and wood rot treatment company , both of which have strict codes of practice to adhere and forever changing standards and methods , we work together on many projects and it is suprising the methods that are specified by architects and Building control / inspectors to get over these problems .
As for the question of the moisture created by heating a shed in the winter .....Even though you are trying to heat it you should still have suffiecient ventilation at all times , even if you dont want to loose heat , but that should allow for any moisture inside the building to escape .
Kind regards Sam
The trick with sound insulation is to try and eliminate the conducting of the vibraions caused by noise , so if you fill all the void with the incorrect insulation the noise will travel , you are limited to what you can achieve given the studs travel from the inside of the building to the outside cladding , if you have 100mm studs try using 75mm insulation pushed to the outer skin,, leaving 25mm clear airflow for any moisture and to prevent the build up of stale air , then fix a 25 extruded polystyrene product ( kingspan , celutex ) accross the face of the timbers covering all studs ( as you would with a board , then fix your plasterboard / ply to that ,you will need longer fixings but you will find the transmission of sound will be greatly reduced and gain the heat insulation , but which ever way you do this , always use a 1200 gauge polythene and clad studs before fixing the board over the studs to prevent the ingress of water / moisture to the back of your plasterboard or ply as this will occur through the cladding and once in the cavity will then sweat and start to cause rot within
There are proper accoustic bars available on the market made from 1.2 mm pressed galv shaped like a stretched out z , which you fix one layer of P/B then fix these up cross bonded to the studs then fix another layer of P/B , I have used these on a job for a customer who wanted a sound proof music room , and they proved to work well along with rockwool .
Bottom line is Budget and how you get on with the neighbours .
personaly I clad the inside of my W/shop using 18mm T&G Chipboard flooring that comes in sheets 600 x 2400 , get it form wickes less than £6 per sheet which makes it about £11.50 per 8x4 and doesnt matter what centres your studs are at as the joints dont need to join on a stud as long as they are bonded minimum of 450 . Also guarantees fixings every where .
|Thread: Oak Doors|
I have almost finished building my new porch , constructed of a Local Ashlared Stone ( at great expense ) . I own a Grade II Listed house and have to match the existing front door which is a plank , ledge and brace . I have looked in to buying one and found them to be sooooooooo expensive , being in the trade I have an idea of what it takes / costs , I would love to make my own but I need a frame to suit too , only thing is that my tools and knowledge are not extensive enough to make them both , I have spent many hours ( ask my partner ) trawling the net in search of free plans / specs . having resigned myself to the fact that unless I fork out a large wad in return for a plan I will only use the once , I will nedd to purchase a completed unit .
Now to the reason of my post , does anyone know where I can find plans to make the door 'n' frame or is there any one within reasonable traveling distnce of south somerset that I could commision to make the items .
Any help will be gratefully received
And just like to say this is agreat site and hope to post some of my mini efforts in the near future .
|Thread: Cordless Screwdrivers Reviewed|
Hello all , my first post , I am a builder / chippy by trade working on plenty of kitchens and ejoy the odd bit of kindling making , I have a comprehensive range of the ryobi range , I have 3 different Ryobi cordles drills , Right Angle , Driver , combi Drill and have to say they are all the Dogs works , given that they are a mid Budget range brand I find they perform very well especially the combi which performs a variety of tasks very well . My partner in crime uses Dewalt and we both purchased our 18v drils at the same time (3 years ago ) and both are going strong except his batteries went lazy and my gears in the combi are starting to go as i do alot of masonary drilling with it .
Have used a wide range of brands on site and would rate Dewalt as the leading higher priced range and Ryobi as good mid budget range .
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