Here is a list of all the postings Sam has made in our forums. Click on a thread name to jump to the thread.
|Thread: Making a stable door.|
My stable door opens inwards . I have a weather bar on both the bottom door and the top . does look a bit odd , but it has to be done . given that stable doors were originaly designed to open outwards .
Hope this helps
|Thread: current project|
|Thread: Yandles Show|
Popped along today about lunchtime , had my daughter with me so couldnt spend too long as her attention span is 0 . was amazed by the turning demo too but that isnt my thing yet , so spent some time looking at the other tools and equipment . Got to say there was some good deals on but no where near as much stands as the year before I thought . did have a good look around their stock again but time was limited .
On the way back to the carpark i noticed a stack of boards propped up verticaly . Anyone else notice .......is that the same timber as was discussed earlier on the forum where y if you dont it reacts oddly ???
Anyway , full of fresh ideas
|Will be going tomorrow . Have a good look around|
|Thread: Workshop Walls - Advice Needed|
|I would check prices at your nearest builders merchants , if they have given you that price , as normaly , orders over £100 get free delivery , plus i dont pay much more than that for 100mm kingspan or equivelant product .you are obviously buying a good amount so most merchants will give you a good price based on that .|
Try this site , it is who I used for my insulation in my shed . some sheds may be slightly damaged but at the right price who cares if it has dents ect .
|Thread: paslode nail gun|
Hi all , been away for a while with work . Got to say have seen that done twice before , once by holding 2 bits off wood and the nail fired right through and out in to the hand ( ring) , and the other hit a not and bent round coming out in the middle of the thumb ( screw nail ) .
I have used the new paslode , but still prefer my Hitachi nail gun , both the same spec , bout the same price , only the hitachi has a rubber grip so I find it a little better when usin it all day , fires the same 51-90 mm nails and uses the same gas , I use paslode , hitachi and drivefast , all the same , just different in price . My only real niggle with the paslode is I used to find the batteries had a habit of coming unclipped ( usualy when on a roof ) , unlike the Hitachi which uses the same generic battery as some of their other tools .
problem with the nails is that because they are mad eusing a thinner gauge metal , they tend to bend easier , so you find a hidden knot and hey presto , it comes out the side !!
Must get back to workshop and finish my doors !!
|Thread: What glue.|
|I use the "Webbseal" PU50 polyurethane glue comes in black grey or white , get it from a company called WENTIN FASTENERS in YEOVIL costs about 4.50 a tube but found it to be very reliable as have also used it to stick stainless to stainless and Ashlared stone back to window reveils , got to say never let me down but yes those lovely rubber gloves do prove worth the money .|
|Thread: Biscuit jointers|
|They must have changed the ferm slightly as on mine once you have the height adjusted you then tweak up a lever to lock it in place , but yes do admit the fence to be a little bulky , like i said , not the best but sufficient for my "learning needs" , makes some wicked mess if not connected to an extractor though LOL|
|Thread: Bahco 1031 Bevel edged chisels|
they also stick burger van together with it , my father-outlaw uses alot of those special adhesive in his factory doing stainless work where you can not weld for visual reaosns .
|Thread: Biscuit jointers|
I have got the "Ferm" biscuit jointer and was about £50 give or take a tenner , got to say it has never let me down , have used it on a few hardwoods inc green oak , easy to use , wouldnt fob it off a being as good as the more upmarket machines but it certainly does what it needs too , has vertical adjustment , depth , and angle adjustment .
Hope this helps
|Thread: Lead Shot for Ballast|
Alternatively , you could use a non-ferous shot blasting aggrigate , wont weigh as much as lead but still weighs up , small enough to be packed in and capped off with a resin / wood plug .
|Thread: Lots of newcomers....but not many new galleries!|
|George has summed it up about right , the other problem is reading text on a screen doesnt always give you an idea of "how" it is being said , text is'nt voice tone sensitive , which can make a friendly tip/ advice sound as harsh critisism cheers|
|Thread: To glue or not to glue?|
I am taking the original door out because it has to be shut at all times or it interferes with access from one room to another , and am replacing it with 2 half width doors so they open up against the reveils and can be left open all the time if chosen to in the summer and doesnt interfere with access and can still be shut in the winter if needed , but with 100mm kingspan in floor and ceiling , 150mm natural sand stone , 75mm jabalite cav fill , 5 " durox blocks , 2 layers of trioso on the roof and triple glazed windows , I shant be too worried about heat loss , the problem with builders , they take all the methods and go overboard on their own homes , got more insulation in my porch than i have in the rest of my home LOL be interesting to work out the U value
Sorry Mike , forgot to mention that my porch door is the new front door as the porch is a new build , the old front door is being removed and two half width doors installed so that they fold back against the cheeks that are 22" thick so that they can be left open with out interfering with access .....but the door has to match the existing ledge and brace front door ( specified by the law ) and is made of boards approx 35mm thickness plus the ledges , my neigbour who is one of those "old school " craftsmen had said to me that over time he had fited many oak ledge doors (requested) as external doors and been back due to the thermal issues causing warping .
The 3 hinge thingy was done using the old T-hinges of varying styles , found this on a fare few period buildings , mainly old farm dwellings or stables ect that have been converted or renovated ect , I know where there is one and will try and get a snap of it and post it .
I am about to fit a 4 ledged planked elm door myself to the front of my porch ( grade 2 listed ) door ready , frame in progress , I have been advised to go with 4 ledges and 4 hinges purley because of the risks of the door warping in its length as you have a thermal barrier issue of cold on one side of the board and warm on the other side , I am still going with this as this is what the old external door was , and "have too" keep its character , so bare in mind the thermal issue
On another note , around here more traditional ledged doors an alike had 3 hinges on but the middle hinge was biased more to the bottom of the door , I forget what it is called , but it is all to do with the leverage point of the door .
|Thread: pitched roof|
Hello Martin , all that you need to remember is that 45 degrees is the key if the top plum cut is 20 then the bottom seat cut of the birdsmouth is 25 which would add up to your 45 , there is no easy way of explaining how to do it , even though the job is simple enough , if you get really stuck you can always hire a local chippy to do the first one and then just copy it off .
I will try to expain ,
Take 2 of you rafter and overlap them by about 300 , and screw at 150 from the end of one , so if you have 3000 rafters then you will end up with a total length of 5700 , this screw will need to pivot , offer the whole length over the building form wall plate to wall plate , ask you wife / mate to help , find the centre of your gable and fix a tempory timber vertical from there to help act as way to centralize the ridge beam , mark the center , now lift the rafters up to the required high at the ridge board , allowing the rafters to pivot on the screw , once at height fix in place with clamp ect , now check the length of rafter from pivot point to wall plate to check it is equal , if so good , now take a level and mark the plumb cut at the ridge point , you can also mark the thickness of your ridge board equally form both rafters . now go to wall plate ,your timbers should be sat accross the wall plate at the angle requires , now lay a level accross the wall plate and mark the seat / horizontal , which will obviously be obviously the height of you level higher than the wall plate , put your level on the outer side of the wall plate , and mark the plumb cut by marking vertical of the outside edge off wall plate , this will give you the angles of you birdsmouth , which should make a cut of a wedge with a 45 degree angle in it . There you have it , you can always adjust the amount of the seat you cut out , as you do not want to cut out any less than a third but no more than half the thickness of the timber out as it will leave the timber weak . If you are using 4x2's then you will want a ridge board/beam up to 6" high .You may also want to fit some purlins or tie beams if the span of each rafter is too great to carry the load .
Mark the side of the timber your marks are on so you know which are your patterns and allways mark the next timber with the pattern facing down ( incase the saw wanders ) .
Got to agree that alot of their exotic timber is a minimum of 3" thick , but they do offer the planing service , which is a good thing being that i dont have a thicknesser .
|I use a couple suppliers in the Martock area for hardwood and find them all to be much of a muchness , luckily yandles and one other offer a good service of cutting to size , and differnt finished ie planed , rouch sawn and fine sawn , so it comes in handy depending on what you need . got to say I am currently thinking of job to use some Zebrano on as every time I go down there the wife always looks at it and then me and say "would make a nice table " LOL|
|Thread: Lots of newcomers....but not many new galleries!|
Sorry guys for not bringing anything to the table , but 2 years after buying "our" house from my father inlaw , he has just vacated "my workshop" , he used it for the fixing of vintage motor bikes , and had all of 2 double sockets and 2 little light bulbs , so a week ago I started the total overhaul , insulating , all new wiring , 200 sockets and lights ect , so have not been up to much since I registered some time ago as all I had was an 6x8 shed and had to store all my work tools ect in it , so now I have a 12x18 and am nearly moved in ..so the fun can begin > most of my woodwork / joinery happens on site , as I live in the "sticks" where most of my work happens on older properties and is carried out to match or using alot of green oak , I will try and down load some snaps of my work .I am lucky enough to live 5 min drive from Yandles so once the workshop is up and running I will be there spending .
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