Here is a list of all the postings Sam has made in our forums. Click on a thread name to jump to the thread.
|Thread: christmas comes early|
The first thing I would ask is .Have you got any wood floors in your house ? and the next would be ...Do they need sanding ? LOL or do you have a screwfix catalogue in the W.C with certain items conveniently circled !!!!!
|Thread: workshop 2.jpg|
|We ( the wife ) did the Oh natural thing too , but had to go back to work , I am right beside you on the sleep thing as I like it too much|
|Thread: Question of Drilling & Turning|
Hello oh great wise ones , I have been given the task by the beloved to "make" some candle stick holders and light pull cord handles for xmas prezzies , baring in mind i am still learning so is a great excuse for shed time !! I have gone as far as to turn a couple "samples " of pull cord handles and even drilled them out on the pillar drill . Which I have to say was a little tricky , I put a 10mm hole at one end about an inch deep and a 5mm hole down through so the cord could be threaded . Here is where my question lies ....I managed to get the holes to line up sort of ,by means of pillar drill but is there a better way of doing it . The pull cords are between 4"-5" . I dont have any sort of chucks for the lathe , only the 2 points , 1 on the stock and the grippy thingy majig on the drive shaft . Is there another way you guys know of with out trying to drill through my hand ??
|Thread: workshop 2.jpg|
|I have got to say there is something missing from ALL your workshop piccies !!....SMA baby milk tins !!! There free and make good storage !!|
|Thread: Spirral Staircase|
I did , many times I just always walked against the surround , I knew the treads were rebated in , even so , it was fun . perfect example of farmer engineering .
P.S the hardwood treads will come in handy some day
|Thread: Union Graduate Maintenance|
|p.s , if the head has sheered off , just start the drilling with a 2mm drill and work up , steady handed !!|
Hi Don , sorry to hear you are having problems with the screw , but as long as you can get a 3mm whole in to it ( can be done with a 5mm thread ) you should be able to get it out , alternatively you could drill it out thread ,n, all and re-tap a thread , not a hard job , providing you have a Tap Set and a good set of drills . Where abouts are you , if somerset , then i could offer you a hand if your stuck !
|Thread: Spirral Staircase|
It certainly was a proper Zummerset job , the Building inspector had to take a picture of it for his "best of the worst" file ....next time i saw him , he said they had voted on it and it was top of the list for sheer tight fisted pointlesly dangerous engineering . and later when i bumoed in to a couple of other of my regular BC officers they all had a good laugh at it .
Well This is a job of mine that i have just finished , whole house was Knackered , but any way , thought i ought to show you boys this , as i would like to know if Mike G can come up with a better engineering solution to this problem . The old boy who used to live here and bodged the whole place up was a farmer ( god rest his soul ) . I had to remove this stair case by orders of the Building Control as it was'nt compliable with Good practice ... any way , the newel was a piece of 200mm underground waste pipe and the treads were hard wood of some sort . the enclosure was built of old scaffold planks , and the treads were fitted to the newel post by 2"x2" holes then filled with a vry weak concrete ......didnt take much to push it over , much to the customers dissapointment .
|Thread: DAMP - Please help|
As it.s a garage i doubt that a membrane would of been used as it is "only" a garage , one route we use whe converting garages for "extra" space is to use a seminticious membrane ,, called K11 applied with a brush , similar to cement past , made by a company called Sovereign . mix it up with a liquid called SBR . paint this on and when it dries it will form a complete barrier . You would need to apply this from just over your DPC right the way around the brickwork below DPC wall and right accros the floor to create a complete barrier , the sovereign products are not cheap but are very good and have never failed me yet as My bro inlaw has his own buisiness Tanking and Damp proofing and have been involved with enough of his jobs and he is a Sovereign approved contractor ,You can get it form the local builder merchants . you would then need to lay the screed down on top . As an alternative to the sovereign products , you could use a Bitumen product that is effective but not as durable as it only dries as a rubbery membrane and under water pressure can blister , and you would still need to lay a screed down .
Alternatively you could "tank" the floor up to and just over the DPC and then lay down a 1200 membrane over and up the wall and lay a floating floor by using a expanded polystyrene sheet on top and then an 18mm Weyroc floor over . but bare in mind that it will not create a perfect seal as the membrane is only resting against the wall and can cause cappilary action , as damp can rise up to 1200 up walls !!
If you can afford it I would Tank the floor and wall up to DPC and lay a good solid screed . but you NEED to cross the DPC to create the barrier that a DPM would normaly create .
Hope this helps
|Thread: Union Graduate Maintenance|
If you are good with a drill and the bolts / screw is no less than 3mm in diameter you could drill a pilot hole and use a Stud Extractor . Might be worth a shot . As for replacements if you can find out the thread size wether imperial or metric than that would be no problem as plenty of places supply fixings might be worth replacing wiith stainless as it is harder and be less likely to wear out and if the body isnt stainless you will find that you are less likely to jam in future as .
|Thread: all parts in view|
Looks a nice piece , but with out sounding dumb , what is the masking tape for ???
Cheers Warren , I did start to snad it with a strip of sand paper about 10mm wide but given that the spirrals are only about 10mm wide at the momemt it is so springy , I will try again no doubt to finish but just would rather leave it as it is as a "prototype than end up splitting it as it is only soft pine from the jewsons stock and had been sat in my shed for about 4 or 5 years , I did remount it to sand it but got to scared to break it ..will keep you posted on the future progress of it !!
|This was only to Be a play around as was just curious to play with the chisels , it stared out as piece of conifer or spruce as it was a piece of timber from my firewood stock that i robbed last year and put up on a shelf to dry out , at first i had it on the lowest speed and it still wanted to become air borne and the smell it gave off as i worked it was so nice , a sweet sort of musky smell . After getting it down to a nice smooth blank i really started to play , and came up with this er um novel candle stick holder , i then cut down some stripps of sandpaper to about 10mm wide and whilst stil on the highest speed gave it the full workings . once done i took it down to the house and gave it a good coating of LIberon Floor Wax and that was it for this . The wife then duly found a suitable candle and that finished that off nicely .|
This next piece started of as an offcut off an green oak post from a canopy i recently made , started off about 6" square and about 8" long . once turned down , i stood looking at it ...um ...what shall I make ..... I know how about ANOTHER candle stick holder ... And so I started to give it the full workings .. the shakes in it were already in the timebr when i bought it for the post as my job descrip was a nice old looking canopy , so the whole time i was turning this the chisels dug in to the biggest shale as seen in the picture , it got to the point that i had to call it quits as evry time i went to put on the final detail ...chunk chunk chunk , and more work had to be done to get it smooth again ... once finished I took it diwn to the house where i put on 2 coats of what I hear you say ......Yes Liberon Flooring Wax ( guess what i did recently ) .. and produced to my wife the Candle stick holder / 4 KG paper weight .The more I look at it the more the Cracks and Shakes grow on me and become more of its character .
These are both my first attempts at turning as I was recently given a Nu-tool lathe which at a guess is about ten plus years old and still works well and a box with about 15 chisels of different profiles , I just need to buy a stone wheel to sharpen them all as they are rather tired . The only fittings I have for the lathe is the pointy tale stock and the spikey bit on the drive shaft but is plenty for my needs . I did then turn the blank for the spirral to which i manged to get to with in 2mm of a dead perfect blank . Which then followed with all the marking and drilling to make it .as some of you have already seen , but i managed 5 spirrals but left to little wood in it and it became too springy to finish so it is just ANOTHER candle stick holder
The angle was exactly what i was looking for but the lines running around it were to close but it was a real pleasure to do , inclueding the 90 minutes of drilling ! but hey maybe next time with a piece of hardwood instead of softwood .
|Thread: My First Woodturning Projects|
Still trying but here is a direct link to my photobucket album !!
Will try and get it sorted !!
yeah , normaly use Photo bucket for a fishing site i use and that works , when I wrote the above ,the picture did show as i was writing it , then when i submitted it , it then did the little box thing , have got another 2 shots i would like to post of other items I have turned but would like them show properly . Any suggestions would be greatfully received , did read the link but am not to good at this whole 111000101010 computer stuff , give me a trowel any day LOL .
|This idea was presented to me by my wife as a "challenge" , managed to turn the blank from a piece of 100x100 pse pine and did all the marking , drilled it out , only to find i had not left enough wood for the spirals and is very much spring like , and is too soft to sand and finish , the internal part of it turnewd out just as i hoped except the sprrals had a very blade like finish to them on the inside ........so it will remain as one of those never to finished projects .|
|Thread: Lightening oak|
My neighbour who runs a replica period furniture buisiness , showed me to use either Hydrated Lime ( from the builders merchants , 25kg bag for 4 quid ) as Mike had said and make a paste , or the option which is a nasty one is to use Costic Soda ( spelling ! ) it is very harsh so where suitable PP but is a great way to burn the tanalin (spelling out ) .
With regards to how "light" you want it depends on how long you leave it or how many applications you put on , either way try on a scrap piece .
|Thread: Workshop Walls - Advice Needed|
Try using "Nylon Hammerfix" fixings , they are made for that purpose , just drill the hole then push the fixing in and hammer home . easy t use and eliminaes the need for plugs and screws . screw fix do them page 43 .
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