Here is a list of all the postings Sam has made in our forums. Click on a thread name to jump to the thread.
|Thread: To glue or not to glue?|
I am taking the original door out because it has to be shut at all times or it interferes with access from one room to another , and am replacing it with 2 half width doors so they open up against the reveils and can be left open all the time if chosen to in the summer and doesnt interfere with access and can still be shut in the winter if needed , but with 100mm kingspan in floor and ceiling , 150mm natural sand stone , 75mm jabalite cav fill , 5 " durox blocks , 2 layers of trioso on the roof and triple glazed windows , I shant be too worried about heat loss , the problem with builders , they take all the methods and go overboard on their own homes , got more insulation in my porch than i have in the rest of my home LOL be interesting to work out the U value
Sorry Mike , forgot to mention that my porch door is the new front door as the porch is a new build , the old front door is being removed and two half width doors installed so that they fold back against the cheeks that are 22" thick so that they can be left open with out interfering with access .....but the door has to match the existing ledge and brace front door ( specified by the law ) and is made of boards approx 35mm thickness plus the ledges , my neigbour who is one of those "old school " craftsmen had said to me that over time he had fited many oak ledge doors (requested) as external doors and been back due to the thermal issues causing warping .
The 3 hinge thingy was done using the old T-hinges of varying styles , found this on a fare few period buildings , mainly old farm dwellings or stables ect that have been converted or renovated ect , I know where there is one and will try and get a snap of it and post it .
I am about to fit a 4 ledged planked elm door myself to the front of my porch ( grade 2 listed ) door ready , frame in progress , I have been advised to go with 4 ledges and 4 hinges purley because of the risks of the door warping in its length as you have a thermal barrier issue of cold on one side of the board and warm on the other side , I am still going with this as this is what the old external door was , and "have too" keep its character , so bare in mind the thermal issue
On another note , around here more traditional ledged doors an alike had 3 hinges on but the middle hinge was biased more to the bottom of the door , I forget what it is called , but it is all to do with the leverage point of the door .
|Thread: pitched roof|
Hello Martin , all that you need to remember is that 45 degrees is the key if the top plum cut is 20 then the bottom seat cut of the birdsmouth is 25 which would add up to your 45 , there is no easy way of explaining how to do it , even though the job is simple enough , if you get really stuck you can always hire a local chippy to do the first one and then just copy it off .
I will try to expain ,
Take 2 of you rafter and overlap them by about 300 , and screw at 150 from the end of one , so if you have 3000 rafters then you will end up with a total length of 5700 , this screw will need to pivot , offer the whole length over the building form wall plate to wall plate , ask you wife / mate to help , find the centre of your gable and fix a tempory timber vertical from there to help act as way to centralize the ridge beam , mark the center , now lift the rafters up to the required high at the ridge board , allowing the rafters to pivot on the screw , once at height fix in place with clamp ect , now check the length of rafter from pivot point to wall plate to check it is equal , if so good , now take a level and mark the plumb cut at the ridge point , you can also mark the thickness of your ridge board equally form both rafters . now go to wall plate ,your timbers should be sat accross the wall plate at the angle requires , now lay a level accross the wall plate and mark the seat / horizontal , which will obviously be obviously the height of you level higher than the wall plate , put your level on the outer side of the wall plate , and mark the plumb cut by marking vertical of the outside edge off wall plate , this will give you the angles of you birdsmouth , which should make a cut of a wedge with a 45 degree angle in it . There you have it , you can always adjust the amount of the seat you cut out , as you do not want to cut out any less than a third but no more than half the thickness of the timber out as it will leave the timber weak . If you are using 4x2's then you will want a ridge board/beam up to 6" high .You may also want to fit some purlins or tie beams if the span of each rafter is too great to carry the load .
Mark the side of the timber your marks are on so you know which are your patterns and allways mark the next timber with the pattern facing down ( incase the saw wanders ) .
Got to agree that alot of their exotic timber is a minimum of 3" thick , but they do offer the planing service , which is a good thing being that i dont have a thicknesser .
|I use a couple suppliers in the Martock area for hardwood and find them all to be much of a muchness , luckily yandles and one other offer a good service of cutting to size , and differnt finished ie planed , rouch sawn and fine sawn , so it comes in handy depending on what you need . got to say I am currently thinking of job to use some Zebrano on as every time I go down there the wife always looks at it and then me and say "would make a nice table " LOL|
|Thread: Lots of newcomers....but not many new galleries!|
Sorry guys for not bringing anything to the table , but 2 years after buying "our" house from my father inlaw , he has just vacated "my workshop" , he used it for the fixing of vintage motor bikes , and had all of 2 double sockets and 2 little light bulbs , so a week ago I started the total overhaul , insulating , all new wiring , 200 sockets and lights ect , so have not been up to much since I registered some time ago as all I had was an 6x8 shed and had to store all my work tools ect in it , so now I have a 12x18 and am nearly moved in ..so the fun can begin > most of my woodwork / joinery happens on site , as I live in the "sticks" where most of my work happens on older properties and is carried out to match or using alot of green oak , I will try and down load some snaps of my work .I am lucky enough to live 5 min drive from Yandles so once the workshop is up and running I will be there spending .
|Thread: Sound proofing|
Sorry for not mentioning the battening it out , but was just going by the fact that PJ mentioned he didnt want to expand the size to greatly , could use as little as 10mm batten , which would still do the job aswell .Try using a copper or alu fixing to as they will last longer than a BZP nail as when they start to rust it will leach a red rust stain on to the wood .
Try using a breathable roofing membrane ie tyvek , klobber ect , fit it to the studs using felt nails or a heavy duty stapler , you only need enough fixings to hold it in place til the boards are fitted , needs to tight enough to not leave any flex in it , when fixing the F/E boards ( horizontaly ) you need to allow 25 mm overlap per board , and only one fixing per boards per stud , in the thicker side which will be at the bottom and overlapping the previous board , to many fixings will aid its splitting when it moves between the warm dry seasons and wet winter seasons . the breathable roofing membrane isnt cheap so it might be worth trying to blag a part roll from a roofer near you and allow atleast 150 mm overlap on it unlessit has a minimum overlap marked on it .
hope this helps
Hi Mike , sorry if my username offends , but it was a nicname given to me when I first started on site , has stuck ever since , and that is a long time , and it bears no relevation to colour or creed , my real name is Sam .
As for the " no building material sweats " is true as far as the material goes , but if you have a timber cladding system it will never be air tight no matter how well you force the joints together , and as soon as the air moisture content rises you will find it's way in and as soon as it finds a barrier of a different temperature it will condensate , and will at some point evaporate again , but in the mean time it will lay against this surface .basicaly it will find its way into the stud stucture by means of air gaps or poorly maintained cladding that will act like a sponge and track through , once in the cavity it will condensate against the insulation and the studs , this then lays there and when the temperature rises again it will condensate ( sweat ) . Yes the ideal material to use would eb a breathable moisture barrier or heavy duty polythene barrier but that can only be done if you have not fitted the cladding yet .
As for the cavity yes , idealy you want the cavity on the outer side of the cavity , but ever tried retroffiting it that way ! And the void you will create by pushing the insulation to the outer side will act as part of the sound muffling system along with the rockwall , it works by bouncing the sound from the internal skin against the mineral insulation and therefore dampning the sound , there are always the ideal ways to fit a system but sometmes you have to compromise certain elements of it because you have to fit a retro fit system .
I run a very successful building company and my brother inlaw runs a very successful damp and wood rot treatment company , both of which have strict codes of practice to adhere and forever changing standards and methods , we work together on many projects and it is suprising the methods that are specified by architects and Building control / inspectors to get over these problems .
As for the question of the moisture created by heating a shed in the winter .....Even though you are trying to heat it you should still have suffiecient ventilation at all times , even if you dont want to loose heat , but that should allow for any moisture inside the building to escape .
Kind regards Sam
The trick with sound insulation is to try and eliminate the conducting of the vibraions caused by noise , so if you fill all the void with the incorrect insulation the noise will travel , you are limited to what you can achieve given the studs travel from the inside of the building to the outside cladding , if you have 100mm studs try using 75mm insulation pushed to the outer skin,, leaving 25mm clear airflow for any moisture and to prevent the build up of stale air , then fix a 25 extruded polystyrene product ( kingspan , celutex ) accross the face of the timbers covering all studs ( as you would with a board , then fix your plasterboard / ply to that ,you will need longer fixings but you will find the transmission of sound will be greatly reduced and gain the heat insulation , but which ever way you do this , always use a 1200 gauge polythene and clad studs before fixing the board over the studs to prevent the ingress of water / moisture to the back of your plasterboard or ply as this will occur through the cladding and once in the cavity will then sweat and start to cause rot within
There are proper accoustic bars available on the market made from 1.2 mm pressed galv shaped like a stretched out z , which you fix one layer of P/B then fix these up cross bonded to the studs then fix another layer of P/B , I have used these on a job for a customer who wanted a sound proof music room , and they proved to work well along with rockwool .
Bottom line is Budget and how you get on with the neighbours .
personaly I clad the inside of my W/shop using 18mm T&G Chipboard flooring that comes in sheets 600 x 2400 , get it form wickes less than £6 per sheet which makes it about £11.50 per 8x4 and doesnt matter what centres your studs are at as the joints dont need to join on a stud as long as they are bonded minimum of 450 . Also guarantees fixings every where .
|Thread: My First Woodturning Projects|
Hi Guys , sorry for lack of posting but been busy at work and lurgy over christmas . just popped in to say hello .
Paul , I turned it down to 100mm diameter and then marked it out , then the long part came as I drilled it out using a pillar Drill and a carriage , then drilled / hollowed it out using a forstner bit set to about 2/3 or the thickness . Hope this helps .
Michael , I am bery keen but havent been to the shed since it as work has been busy and the house needs a lot of DIY catch up , but thanks for the comment , and yes the wife loves it as it is now covered in red wax from the festive candles !
|Thread: Mobile Base|
|Try some Fridge movers , screwfix , basicaly a pair of long skates , will carry a good weight code 39158 .|
|Thread: Natural oak finish|
Danish Oil , does go slightly golden but a good 3 coats or more should protect it .
|Thread: Question of Drilling & Turning|
No they were certainly inch's , was just playing aroud using my hand size (shovel) to gauge them but as I get better I will no doubt refine the size of them !!
|Thread: rspt260 problems|
ahh , well , that answers my question too then , am having the same problem with my cheap ( gifted ) axminster bandsaw . was layed up in a garage for a while before . It was fine at first I was cutting 50mm oak and the lot no trouble , then a few weeks later I went to cut some gallow bracket and started ok and after the first it then went plop , took me ages as i had to wait for it to pick up speed and cut another 10mm and so on . Well , given your problem and the value of my bandsaw , it,s recycle time , either that or never cut more than 10mm matchboard !
I dont during the week , It's my weekend pad , come on you know it is LOL , and that is why my price ws £3,000.00 , got to cover my traveling expenses .
LOCATION ; Timbuktu
JOB DESCRIPTION ; I have 2 loose door knobs and a shelf bracket I want put up .Because I am DIY incompanant .
BEST PRICE SO FAR :£3,000
ADDITIONAL INFO : Must be a qualified Plumber
Got to say I looked in to one of the sites a long time ago being that I am a BUILDER and in MY opinion it would be a waste of time as in MY area alone there were a billion other BUILDERS and closet work was in bristol , and I am the other side of the county unless I wanted to fix a shelf bracket or a leaky tap . I cant see how it is any use apart from those in the middle of a big town or city !!!
Besides in my opinion it ought to be the Customer ( of said jobs ) that should be paying .
So I am sorry I cant invest in your idea , so I am out LOL
It isnt going to be so much what hinges you use as most will suffice your needs regarding the 180 degreea but it's more of a case of how good / strong the fixings will be and what they are fixed in too . And what are you doing to prevent it folding/collapsing the other way or do you intend to rely on the hinges for that ?? as just relying on the hinges wont be sufficient as most are'nt meant to carry big loads horizontily /flat .
Hope this helps
|Thread: Question of Drilling & Turning|
Cheers guys for the help unfortuanately I only have a 4 prong drive and Live revolving centre on the tail stock . I have looked on Axminster at the Light pull drive and does look to be a handy piece of kit . I would say that drilling the blanks does seem a very logical idea , and thanks for that . I will be investing in some additional parts for my lathe but I was given it by some one who is moving and doesnt have the space for it , it is a Nu-tool 37 and is a cheap-ish bit of kit so dont want to go splashing out on it as for me it is an experimenting tool to see how I get on with as to wether I get a "better" one or make do . Must say though it is a good piece of kit to learn on . And as for doing the same with candle stick regarding pre-drilling it now makes sense as after turning previous candle holders I then ended up drillling the end out with a forstner bit , and that was fun too .
But many thanks all of you for your advice and it has been duly noted and will try them out in the next few days .
Also got to say I am going to get my daughter a gerbil , just to make use of al the saw dust LOL
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