Here is a list of all the postings Roger W has made in our forums. Click on a thread name to jump to the thread.
|Thread: Restoring Old Planes|
My main bench plane is a Stanley 4½ (it was my fathers and I think his father's before that) I spent ages flattening and polishing the sole. I think I started with 300 grit, as there were some really deep scratches, and worked up to 1200 and then a piece of cotton rag soaked in metal polish. I then replaced the blade with a Clifton, also fitted a Clifton cap iron.
I'm still not sure about the blade because you don't keep going back and checking the old blade on the current bit of timber and I'm still getting better at sharpening, so it's hard to be certain where the improvements come from.
But the blade is thicker, is more solid and I think holds it's edge better. The cap iron I am certain about. you don't have to disturb it for touching up the edge, so you don't have to re-set after. Sharpening is a matter of moments - there is no point putting it off so the blade is always sharp.
Hope this helps.
Hi everyone, I signed up yesterday. I like the sound of the hobnobs, but can you do coffee - I can't stand tea.
I'd say to Rich don't put off your retirement any longer than you have too. I took a deal at 50, and now work part time as a DT technician in a school. Whilst I often think a bit more money would be nice, I really enjoy every day. The sheer pleasure in being able to take time over things and do them to a much higher standard than I used to makes it all worth while.
Enjoy the site
|Thread: coopered cabinet 5.jpg|
|I admire anyone who even attempts curved work. Your cabinet looks really nice.|
|Thread: Mike Riley|
|Surely there is a place for both. Mike R. might not use power tools himself but I'm equally sure none of his work is completed without power machinery. It's a long time since you could buy timber sawn into planks by hand! So why be absolute over the next stage. I love working with hand tools but I'm aware that my expertise is lacking in some areas, so a thiknesser alows me to achieve repeatable results that I couldn't achieve otherwise. Likewise a spindle moulder allows consistent results that I can't achieve with moulding planes. I have tried and sometimes I'll choose one sometimes the other - it all depends on the job and on the time available.|
|Thread: Honing guides ~ six of the best|
|They do make it more accurate but they make it much slower. With a bit of practice just feel for the primary bevel, lift up another few degrees, 3 or four strokes on a diamond stone, wipe the wire edge off and job finished before you have even fitted the blade into the guide. For the same reason (speed) I love the Clifton cap iron. You can keep your blade sharp in a fraction of the time it would otherwise take as you don't need to remove it to sharpen, and no time wasted resetting after. If you work like this you'll sharpen the blades as soon as they need it and will enjoy the work more.|
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