Member postings for Roger W

Nice to have you with us, but what do you mean still learning even in your fifties. I've obviously got a few years start on you, but fully expect to be learning for a long time yet. I think when you stop learning it's time to sit quietly in the corner and try to remember to wipe the dribble off your chin!

I look forward to seeing your gallery

Roger 

It was Powder from Nordavik, 81, High Street, Astcote,Towcester,  Northhants,  NN12 8NW,  TEL.  01327  830276 Primary colours as well as wood shades.

Roger 

Another one on the way the site works. I agree that for comments on a gallery picture the default should be that new comments should be on any existing thread.

But more important could the owner have an email when someone comments on a gallery item (like we have in a thread). Most of us arn't so vain that we keep looking at our own pictures, so we dont know when comments are made or questions asked!

Roger

Not something I'd want either but she came up with a design based on a 1960s hanging chair and we helped convert it int something she could actually make. We used a polyurathane glue and an oil finish so it is reasonably waterproof and could be used outside.

You're right about the webbing it is elastic shock cord, and supports a teardrop shaped back rest.

Hi Gavin,  the top was about 3 feet long by 2 feet wide  (900mm x 600mm if you're a modernist)

I used a water soluble ebony stain I can't remember the name but will look it up if you want. As it was for my son and I knew how it would be treated, I then finished it with a water based acrylic varnish (I'd have preferred a traditional finish) This was a big mistake the water in the varnish lifted the stain and for a while it was a terrible mess. Thankfully the bamboo panels were pretreated and I was able to clear it up. In future I'll always use a finish with a different solvent from any stain!

Didn't "Norm build one of these? See the discussion on New Yankee Workshop for how to get plans, DVD etc.

Roger W

How do I set "My Bookmarks"  When I click on the link to find out more I get an error message -

"There seems to be an error on this page if you continue to get this problem please contact support."

Over to you

Roger W 

I too try to go on Friday, some times you can get better deals at the end of Sunday if you're prepared to haggle and they have things they don't want to take back!

Roger  

How about we ALL pester Discovery to get his new series? At the end of the day its those who shout loudest get served first. I'm going to mail them now!!

Roger 

I always try to listen to some of the masterclasses.. I always listen to John Pizey who gives one on french polishing. He's brilliant. Most things you can get from a catalogue but talking to people .......................

 Roger

No plans, the  overall size was defined by the wall where it was to go and the size of the worktops that I was going to use. I drew it out full size and kept changing it until it looked right.

Thanks for the comments.

I made a door at college as part of a machine woodworking course. I've got the plans and scanned them in but how to get it to you? I've added a picture to my gallery. Album title is Roger. Hope this helps.

Roger

I tend to get bogged down in paperwork, so I cut out and keep only articles and plans I'm interested in. Istill can't find anything. I also get Plans and tips from a couple of electronic newsletters that I subscribe to. (should I mention names?)

Now these are mostly PDF files, and those that aren't I "print" to that format with a little shareware converter. Filing on / in the pc is easy.

Now to get to me suggestion. How about publishing articles, plans etc from the magazines on the site Some months after publication in the magazines, or alternativly accessable only via a unique ID reference to subscribers. To prevent these being circulated every ID would access each article or plan only once. We could download our own copy and filing solved.

ps I love the site. It's the best woodworking forum I've found. 

Really nice

When flattening the sole  (just like sanding) start with a coarse grade that removes material fast, if removing scratches you want a grade just finer than the worst scratch. This stage is 90% of the work. The rest is just cosmetic.

Now that it's flat, and all scratches are even, work through ALL the grades up to the level of finish you want. At this stage you are not removing material so much as knocking off the peaks of the scratches put in by the grade before and 20 or 30 strokes (max 50) should be enough (if I remember right).  If you try to miss a grade then the process grinds to a halt.

Think of the surface as inverted vee shaped mountains between which are the scratches made by the abrasive grains the depth (peak to base) of which are related to grit size. You next want a grit that will  take off most of the crests, and leave finer scratches. Too fine a grit and it willtake forever to get the new finer scratches down level with the original ones.

I start at 260 or 300 then one around 500, 600, 800, 1000, and lastly 1200, or even 1500. If you then metal polish the sole will look as if you had had it chrome plated!