By continuing to use this site, you agree to our use of cookies. Find out more

Member postings for Rob Johnson

Here is a list of all the postings Rob Johnson has made in our forums. Click on a thread name to jump to the thread.

Thread: Help needed please
02/08/2009 05:39:51
Any decent timber yard will be able to supply both items, even Jewsons if they have a good timber products manager. Buying from one of the panel product suppliers such as Silvermans, is normally an expensive way due to carriage costs which are negated if your local yard orders with a stock order.  may be of use.
Thread: cubic foot
02/08/2009 05:05:08
Ron, it is usually as in sawn boards, unless your timber yard is a bit quirky.
Tried to attach a chart showing approximate board foot run for most common sizes, but it is too big for the message box.
Thread: best spindle moulder
25/07/2009 04:06:32
Looks like APTC has rebadged their tools again, the Comatic AF32 looks exactly like the one I have with their name on. It has served me well.
Most of my time is spent in workshops other than mine but it did get a lot of use when fitting out a couple of barges and a house in France. I never run it above 8mtr/min in order to reduce clean up of the work pieces, of course the higher the rpm of the spindle the faster the feed speed should be. It is a balance of reduced cutter marks and burning the work piece.
Get the best you can afford, is the best advice, decide what you want to do with any bit of kit and recognize it's limitations too. ie. even the best power feeds sometimes become power hold downs when running long window cill sections (for conservatories) and need help to push them through.
24/07/2009 10:29:00
Jay, do not know that model mate, mine is the Axminsters own one, which is sufficient for my needs, most joinery shops use Maggi power feeds, but they are quite pricey though worth every penny of it in my opinion. Replacement drive wheels can prove costly (especially when people do not ensure the cutter will miss the wheels before starting up) so check on costs of these too. With care the rubber will last a long time.
Fox moulder sounds like it belongs in X-Files though!
Thread: Animal or pearl or scotch or hood and hide glue
24/07/2009 05:48:40
Glad to help. 
Thread: Status
23/07/2009 19:33:13
Dear Ben,
My account profile is asking me to "set a status", what is this, how new is it and why do I need one??? And what is my status other than an errant poster who has been away for a while ( and no! I was not in jail, just really involved in a couple of all consuming projects)
Yours hopefully,
Confused of Broadstairs (well who wouldnt be, living there?)
Thread: Animal or pearl or scotch or hood and hide glue
23/07/2009 18:58:24
Hi John,
check out this web site, the info on front page should answer your questions.
Thread: best spindle moulder
23/07/2009 18:32:45
The best Spindle I have ever used was an old Wadkin EQ, a heavy duty beastie with very little vibration and plenty of power to work effortlessly. Second to that was a German one that had adjustable "fingers" on the fence that could slide and lock close to the cutter block to negate the use of subfences (this was in Frankfurt, never seen it in the UK)
That said I actually own an Axminster one (so I can use my router cutters in it) and an old green thing of obscure parentage!
I have no experience of the Startrite T160, though I would strongly advise that any budget includes the purchase of a power feed. The power feed makes repetetive runs easier with smoother mouldings etc and above all much safer. ( I can switch my p/f between machines)
You have little in the way of information in your profile, so do you have any training or experience with these machines? My first day as an apprentice I was introduced to a machinist with only his middle finger and part of his thumb left on one hand, the rest had gone up the extractor on a spindle moulder. They require total concentration and respect.
Thread: What's it's function
22/05/2009 12:10:18
Is it a de-mountable tool/plan shelf for hanging at the back of the lathe?
Thread: triton
04/09/2008 19:55:00

I would never knock a Triton. When I was starting out my main stay was building staircases. My kit was an Elu router, Bosch circular saw and some hand tools. The Triton made my router a small spindle moulder and the Bosch a table saw.

The work I was able to produce has enabled me to purchase dedicated machines, the first of which was a Kity planer/thicknesser that reduced my material purchasing costs, as prepared timber was costing around 50 percent more than sawn.

My Triton is in storage, having been loaned to my Father while he had use of his hands, it is waiting in his old workshop, till I have need again. Ahh such memories!

Regards Rob.

Thread: Building kitchen cabinets
04/09/2008 19:26:00

The beauty of Shaker style cabinetry is the minimalist amount of fancy moulding.

The Shakers felt that ostentatious design detracted from functionality.

For woodworkers with little kit this design ethic is a boone, however if you research the known designs and surviving furniture then you will find many beautiful yet functional examples where the odd "pretty" moulding is evident. (Though I'm not so sure about the rope sprung beds!)

Much of the furniture produced by the Shakers was painted, in their time they were probably better known for their seed production, a major source of income.

Regards Rob.

Thread: Best belt cleaner yet.
04/09/2008 19:11:00

Old style garden hose pipe, the type with the re-enforcing mesh, works well too.

Only problem is, nicking it upset the family gardener!

Thanks Derek, now we know what to do with all the old tubes of silicon that get lost in the back of the van.

Thread: Either a write up here or in mags
10/08/2008 15:26:00

Bugle head screws are designed to reduce the chance of the screw pulling through or cutting the thick(ish) paper on plasterboard,( this allows it to "countersink" ready for filling or plastering) which happens of course when the cordless drill/driver is not set at the appropriate clutch setting.

A screw should be three times in length of the thickness of the material being fixed but at least 3mm short of going through the face of the other component as a rule of thumb, although practice and experience will afford adjustments according to the job in hand.

(ie. hanging a heavy door on hinges 3mm thick with 12mm long screws is going to end in tears, 25 to 35 mm screws will give a better result)

As previously mentioned, pilot drill for the threaded part of the screw, however don't forget to drill a clearance hole in the timber or board being screwed so that it can be screwed down tightly to the substrate material.

Thread: Spalted sycamore 3.jpg
11/07/2008 19:50:00

I posted about TCT and HSS cutters before but the search engine is not working.

John is correct and it is due to the shear angle of the cutter to the workpiece.

HSS cutters can have a more acute angle(much thinner at the edge) due to the metal, TCT, while being hard wearing is very brittle but will last longer but needs more material to maintain strength so less shear. Ceramics, I understand, are the best of both worlds. Never having used them I cannot confirm this.

Regards Rob.

Thread: bit leaky.jpg
10/07/2008 20:32:00

Thanks for the link Billy, it is true what they say, small boats are more fun! I used to have so much fun with my old one.

If the rain keeps up I shall start selling plans for an Ark! Erm! How many Cubits to a Metre? Anyone!

Thread: Solid surface fabrication
10/07/2008 19:53:00

Al, you have not offended me and my post was aimed at inaccuracies within your post, you may well have been impressed by the course or the product but many people reading it who have no experience of it could be misled. Not everyone has a wide spectrum of knowledge of the processes various materials require to to get a finished result.

All worksurfaces go through a range of processes to obtain the finish and most require additional cutting and finishing on site, some require more skill than others, SSV/Corian etc are more forgiving than others (especially laminates) . To compare a surface that is manufactured to a design to a shop bought off the shelf product is, frankly, misguided.

If you have taken my post as a personal and aggressive attack then I am sorry that you do. Forums are there to inform, debate and have fun doing so.

Well thats the way I see it.

With respect Rob.

09/07/2008 20:52:00

Now I get to use one of my favourite words, oxymoron.

Quote."Having said that its not that difficult to use and install, it just takes a lot longer than normal work-tops, and there is a lot of fine dust,"

So Marble or Granite or solid timber do not fit in this category?

Quote"which is not harmful, unlike MDF dust."

All dust is harmful when taken into the lungs in excessive amounts.

Quote "and fitting is expensive due to the amount of work that goes into it. "

So it takes no time or effort at all to machine up, edge and cut up timber or stone products?

Quote"as all exposed edges need to be edged."

And exposed edges of laminate worktops (horrid things) don't?

To attempt some balance here; The biggest advantage of "solid surface fabrication" (plastics) is that if a mistake is made it is very easy to glue on another bit with the right colour adhesive/filler and with a few minutes in several grades of pan scouring type pads on a random orbit sander, no one will know !

I did write "attempt"

Regards Rob.

Thread: Woodburner
09/07/2008 19:10:00

Hi Jonny, Had them in Crete when I lived there, the type you could cook on too!

A friend has just installed one due to being in a village with no gas main and having watched the price of his heating oil skyrocket . He is a Carpenter and his son one of our apprentices so has a good source for offcuts/mistakes .

 They work really well, though you need to match the area to be heated, hot water requirements (some have back boilers) and whether or not you want to cook on it. Aga and Rayburn are the expensive end of the market but they do have other competitors!

Also bear in mind that wood gives off as much carbon when it rots as it does when burnt, so by burning it instead of oil or gas you are being very "Green".

Hope you source one that suits.

Regards Rob

Thread: oregon pine?
09/07/2008 18:53:00

Alan, I'm fairly certain you will have found this out already but will post it anyway.

Douglas Fir has several other common names, dependant normally on where it is grown/sourced, British Columbian Pine (B.C.Pine) and Oregon Pine.

I have turned this in the past for newell posts etc, the things to watch for are A) Sap Pockets. B) Dead knots, C) Shakes/splits. Select the cleanest/clearest bits for turning and you will get excellent results.

look forward to the pic's in March


Thread: Solid surface fabrication
09/07/2008 18:37:00

I take it this is one of the Corian or recycled plastic materials that are on the market!

I have used a couple of different brands and have only two issues with them:

1/ Price of material

2/ Prices charged to fit by Corian suppliers

There are some upsides to the stuff but as it is plastic..I put them in Room 101.


Magazine Locator

Want the latest issue of The Woodworker & Good Woodworking? Use our magazine locator links to find your nearest stockist!

Find The Woodworker & Good Woodworking 

Latest Forum Posts
Support Our Partners
Transwave 2017
Felder UK April 2016
Robert Sorby
Wood Workers Workshop
Craft Supplies
Turners Tool Box
D&M Tools
D B Keighley
Subscription Offers

Subscribe to<br />    The Woodworker Magazine and receive a FREE gift

Contact Us

We're always happy to hear from you, so feel free to get in touch!

Click here to find who to contact