Here is a list of all the postings Peter Farnell has made in our forums. Click on a thread name to jump to the thread.
|Thread: Half track|
You've got too much time on your hands!!
Seriously - It's brilliant!
|Thread: Black and Decker Band saw|
Great contributions but I think your Google Translate needs looking at!!
|Thread: Hayrake Extendable dining table|
I've finally sorted it!! See my album for the finished set and how to bring it together. Here is a short explanation:
I made the hayrake stretcher first, complete with tenons. The legs were centre bored on the lathe with 22mm diameter x 70mm deep mortises, finished and then attached through their through mortises to the stretcher frame. The rectangular top frame was made up using a rectangular "boss" at each corner which carried the mortises for the tenons on the rails and a centrally located cylindrical peg, 22mm x 70 mm, turned on one end. The frame was assembled using draw joints with oak dowels exposed on the face side (I love a bit of end grain!!). Finally, the top frame was dropped onto the leg/stretcher assembly glueing the cylindrical boss tenons into their matching cylindrical mortises in the legs (it actually fitted, which was a bit of a miracle!!), and inserting a dowel through the tenon from the face side of each leg. It's much easier to understand if you see the pictures in my album.
The table is 1550 x 900 (approx.) extending to 2150mm and is made from quarter sawn European oak. The extension is stored invisibly on two cross bars underneath the sliding tops and can be removed for use and stored easily from above through the opened top.
The seats are made of KD cherry from Yandles of Martock, Somerset, where I buy all my timber. They had it on special offer (25% off) at the time so I bought their entire stock! They have more.....
I'd never made a chair before, never mind six with carved seats, so it was a bit of a learning curve. I resawed the 250mm wide boards into about 80mm wide and jointed them with dowels to make up the width then used an arbortech carver to rough out the seat. I finished the shaping with a pull shave (bought specially at great expense!!) and curved and straight cabinet scrapers. The cherry behaved beautifully - easy to shape and I think it looks nice with the oak. It is, of course, softer than elm but much more stable.
SInce I paid out so much dosh for the pull shave, I'll have to make some more seats, sometime, I guess!
Good luck with the Windsor chair!!
Inspired by Sydney Barnsley I've been making a "Hayrake" dining set for my daughter (since last June!!) I've finally finished the chairs (see photos) and have designed the extending table (see photo), but can't work out how to bring the legs, hayrake stretcher and top frame together since the leg tenons have to come together at 45 degrees to the tenons of both the side frame members and the end frame members (if you see what I mean!!). Has anyone got any good ideas how I could do this (by design or technique). I really want to retain the the aspect of the design that mirrors the design of the chair's hayrake and legs.
|Thread: Dark oak stain|
Thanks to Eugene and Doug for your help. No, I didn't go through the veneer!! I have it sorted now. I hand sanded the tops with 240 grade W&D used dry, which left a much more receptive surface. I then mixed several oil basd stains together and managed to get a match. I was quite surprised how much more stain was taken when the machine sanded surface was taken off!! Cheers!
I am refinishing two small dark oak table tops for a friend to remove scratches and dents in the surface. I scraped and sanded the tops to the original wood and dicovered they are veneered and capped blockboard with a very thin veneer. I now need to stain the tops to mac=tch the frames. I tried a commercial (Wickes) dark oak stain but it produces a "zebra" effect because the stain doesn't take on the denser parts of the grain. Do I need to use a pigmented filler of some sort and how is it best applied? Any advice would be very welcome.
|Thread: Filling defects|
Thanks, Al. I've used the home made filler approach before, but I think the shellac stick approach will work better with the little knots which have a very flat surface. I was in tending to make the shellac match the dark hard centre, which I don't think will change much in colour over time. What do you think?
I've been looking at your photo gallery. Some lovely stuff in there! Very impressive. I also like making things from recycled materials. In addition to old wardrobes, dressing tables, drawer chets etc, I have a stock of about 40 old reclaimed laboratory bench tops in various tropical hard woods. All about 4 m x 600mm x 28mm. Still trying to work my way through it!!
Thanks again for your help.
What's the best way to fill defects due to little knots and checks in french oak. I am making a bedside table with front legs that are effectively "book-matched. Half way down the face side of each is a knot and associated small check/split - slightly bigger than what we would call pippy. They are (to me) very attractive but I think the checks would look better filled. Does anyone have experience of Liberon touch in sticks or shellac sticks or anything else that would do the job nicely ?
|Thread: finishing oak|
|Thread: Spindle moulder safety|
Thanks, Mike. The Whitehill block pictured is exactly what came with the machine together with instructions for use which insist that it's safe!!. So I assume that you wouldn't use such a thing. and the book rePity really cos' there's lots of cutters to go with it, but if they're not safe, I'll just have to retool. I'll check out the HSE website, thanks.
Thanks also to OPJ for your contribution. I must say the spindle runs so smoothly and quietly compared with (even) the T5 router that I can't wait to use what I can see must be a very versatile feature of my combination machine. Thanks again,
I am a woodworker of some 20 years experience in safe workshop practice. I have just acquired a combination machine which has amongst other things a 30mm spindle, belt driven at 6000 rpm. It has a 4 1/2 " cutter block and a range of cutters which are clamped in place in the block. I read somewhere that spindle moulders can be quite dangerous and have no experience with them so I would like to know if such a cutter block is safe to use. (It does have a purpose made guard etc). For example, is it possible for the cutter to fly out of the block? Is such a design up to modern safety standards? Does anyone know of a web source for SM techniques (Spindle Moulder, that is, not the other S&M!!). All help and advice gratefully received!
|Thread: Lurem combination machine|
I bought it. It is indeed a C260 with two motors and all cast iron tables. Everything works and its all very solid especially the fences and adjustments. Metabo tell me that they keep spares but I haven't tried them yet.
We had great fun moving it, but it's now in the workshop and reassembled and serviced.
Home made dust/chip extraction now fitted up for the saw, planer and thicknesser - very effective. If you need/want to exchange ideas feel free. I'd be happy to share my designs for extraction, for example.
|Thread: Wickes "professional" sander now useless|
Many thanks to all those who've been so helpful. Some great ideas....
|Thread: Nice storage|
Great tools and nice toolboard. Hope you don't mind if I relate a cautionary tale......
I had a tenon saw in exactly the same position as yours held on my tool board in the same way as yours, mounted at about head height. My wife came ito the 'shop, bent down to pick saomething off the floor and on getting up banged the top of her head on the projecting lower edge of the tool board. The vibration was enough to dislodge the saw which plummeted downwards and in the course of its flight sawed a neat tenon slot in my wifes scalp. She was not pleased. I very quickly modified my fastener to prevent the saw being dislodged by upward movement, after all, it's not the sort of tool you want to play catch with, is it?.
|Thread: Wickes "professional" sander now useless|
I have a Wickes professional detail sander with triangular backing pad 110mm across, sold in most of their stores. The hook and loop ("velcro") backing pad has worn bald and Wickes say they are unable to supply a replacement. So my 40 odd quid investment is now useless. Apparently the tool (and the backing pads) are made by Draper who, according to Wickes, have been much less than helpful when they inquired on my behalf about supplying a replacement.
The important lesson is not to buy a sander until you know how freely available are the replacement pads!!
Does anyone know where any of these backing pads might be hiding somewhere in the supply chain.
What better finish for walnut than walnut oil, itself. Readily available and quite cheap from Sainbury's etc. I have used it on my walnut gunstock for years and the result is beautifully deep, hard and lustrous (after many coats) - it even withstands days out in the pouring rain. But it's hard work applying and best applied by rubbing in with the palm of your hand/fingers so not suitable really for complicated shapes. However its applied, you need to rub quite hard to make the oiled piece warm. (If you're a nurd like me you'll know that this helps the oxidation of the unsaturated fatty acids in the oil which hardens it more quickly- just like linseed oil). You need lots of THIN coats and lots of rubbing.
If this sounds like hard work, it is!! (and you might not think its worth it....)
|Thread: Lurem combination machine|
Does anyone own one of these machines? I have the opportunity to buy one that is about 20 years old, in reasonable working order. I think its the Lurem combi maxi 260 or some very similar model. Can you still get spares? If so, where from. Does anyone know how easy it is to dismantle into manageable bits for transport, because its in a workshop in a very inaccessible place - lots of steps and garden slopes etc.
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