Here is a list of all the postings Delboy has made in our forums. Click on a thread name to jump to the thread.
|Thread: basato 3 upper wheel tyre|
A pleasure John. Like you I havent been on here for some time. Incidentally, I also have the Basato 3
Not knocking Hamilton Beverstock at all because as they are fairly local to me, I have had blades from then in the past until I discovered Tuffsaws. Next time you need replacements try them, you wont be disappointed. Also any bandsaw problems, talk to Ian at Tuffsaws. What he doesn't know isn't worth knowing.
|Thread: Dropside Cot Fittings|
Joppy when I built a cot for my grandson some years ago, I am sure I got the fittings from Issac Lord. However a quick look suggests they do not have them now. I did google "dropside cot fitting" and a few options came up so a search along those lines may help.
|Thread: Bed side tables|
Very nice and look practical.
Al, can I ask how the bottom shelf is held in place. is each corner morticed into both faces of the legs, one face only, or some other method.
|Thread: Table Saw Blade|
Success. Many thanks.
Thanks Al. At least I now know which way to try and turn it.
Sorry about the garbled start, - many thanks should be at the end and ignore the word Do. Now edited.
Edited By Delboy on 23/09/2014 18:14:12
I have a Scheppach TS2500 table saw and while cutting some oak was generating more smoke than a log burner. Decided it was time to change the blade but having no joy undoing the blade retaining nut. The shaft is held with a steel rod to enable the nut to be removed/tightened but so far all I have managed is to bend the rod and even broken a piece off the end. Does anyone know if it is a left hand thread or convention anti-clockwise direction to remove. I can't remember from when I last did this and the manual doesn't mention it which leaves me thinking it is conventional. I have tried both ways but no joy. I have also tried a "whack" with a hammer but there is to much "spring" intge system for that to work. I would be grateful for any suggestions as until I can change the blade, I am stuck.
Edited By Delboy on 23/09/2014 18:13:10
|Thread: wooden chopping board|
I have used Tung Oil in the past which is advertised as being safe. It's expensive though.
|Thread: Cut MDF|
In a fairly recent edition of GW, there was an article discussing best ways to treat cut areas of MDF to ensure a smooth finish when painting. I am replacing all the skirting board and architrave in the house with a lambs tongue profile but these are cut MDF boards.
I have tried to find the article by flicking through my back issues but so far have failed. Can anyone help throw any light on this and if you remember, can you let me know the issue number of the magazine pleas.
|Thread: Cherry cabinet|
I do like that. Great job Martin. The raised panel doors are obviously solid wood - is it all solid or is some veneered boards. If the latter, did you lip/edge with solid wood or veneer?
|Thread: Media unit|
Ignorance time Mailee but what exactly is MRMDF as opposed to "MDF"??
|Thread: Replacement Stair Balustrade|
Thanks Big Al - hadn't thought about a scouring pad. Good idea about the candles Doug - will certainly give that a go.
Having just finished replacing my old "ranch" style stair and landing bannister and rails with hemlock rails and spindles a la Richard Burbidge, I am seeking any advice on final finish for both protection and look. So far the replacements have had two coats of Danish oil. I was originally planning another one or two but the smell lingers and I'm not sure I want any more of it - no complaints from "management" yet but they may come. Anyway, I would be grateful for any advice on what you guys think may be the best finish coat.I did have sanding sealer in mind but am not sure. Any help would be gratefully received.
|Thread: Christmas Complaint|
|Anyone fancy a turkey sandwich? I've got loads left over!!!!!|
|Thread: Bunk beds|
|When I see things like this I am tempted to take up golf and forget my "woodworking". That looks a cracking job Mailee|
|Thread: Princess Beatrice Royal Wedding Fascinator Chair|
|I first came across the Maloof Joint a few years ago and it seems it was originated by him. I have since come across it a few times and it always seems to be referred to as a "Maloof Join"|
|Thread: competition piece|
|Gorgeous clock - it almost looks like marble casing|
|Thread: Absolute Novice - Working WIth Wood|
Agree with all the previous comments but Simon raises a very good point regarding preparation. As he says, been there, done that, It is all too easy to rush and/or buy poor quality timber from the cheaper outlets because it is cheap.
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