Here is a list of all the postings steve h has made in our forums. Click on a thread name to jump to the thread.
|Thread: DAMP - Please help|
I have had a chat with my neighbours, one has said he will drop the level of his garden at the back of my garage, where most of the water is coming from.
The neighbour with the drive on the side is not planning to have his drive re-laid, therefore I cannot eradicate that issue, without a lot of expense on my part.
I forgot to mention that I had put a base in for a shed on my side, but left about an inch between the base and the garage to let water through, should I widen this and put in a gully, as the sheds had it anyway and needs replacing and would be a good time to get things sorted on my side of the fence!
The garden is not very big & I wanted to run a couple of flag widths down the side of the garage to give me a walkway and somewhere to add a few pots - as at one time this was a flower bed, which i have removed as i do not think this was helping - my question is, I presume I need to run a gully down the entire length & keep the flag levels either equal to or below the level of my garage slab, with gradient into the gully?
Firstly Baz - I think, enjoying gardening as I do, that the slab is on a clay base, as you cannot did down far without hitting the clay.
Thanks Cedric, all my tools are either off the floor in cuboards that are mobile, or hung on the walls that has the full membrane top to bottom, stud wall with insulation and then 6mm ply - as i was worried about the damp floors.
The rockwool I purchased is narrower than the width of the beams, therefore generally I thought that there was airspace between the ceiling & roof. also, the barge boards (think i have got that right) are only just below the end of the rafters on the outside and are not sealed, I thought that it felt like there was enough of the outside air coming in?
Funnily, the main place I have noticed the most prolific growth, is roughly about 2 foot from the exit of my suspended air filtration unit.
Only a few months ago, I replaced a very old rotten wooden window in the garage for a UPVC jobby and also added a UPVC side door, as I always had to go in through the up & over, which was both a little noisy late at night and kept putting all my kit on show when I opened the garage door.
Comment here for Mike, thanks again, I think that the dpc appears to be just the thickness of the brick and appears to be generally the first course above ground level - where it is above ground!!
Just one more issue, I live in Rossendale, Lancashire - apparently the third wettest place in the UK! The houses are built from London brick, not very suitable for our area.
My back wall on the house a couple of years ago became completely porus and had to be rendered to stop the water being driven through this wall.
I think I am having the same prblem with the garage walls, as when you drill them, they are damp inplaces quite a way throgh the actual brick.
I think i have just realised that I may have multiple issues here - maybe moving is a better idea?
Thanks Mike & Dave,
the garage is brick built, appears to be bulit on the solid single slab. Its a single detached away from the house at the bottom of the back garden.
The houses were bulit on a slope and my neighbours house drive runs down by the side of my garage, his driveway near the top is just by a cm or two, below my DPC.
it has a flat roof with a very slight pitch and external guttering that goes to foul.
My neigbour on the side, his back garden runs to the back of my garage and again, the ground is virtually level with my DPC on the garage.
He cut down a big tree near to my garage, as the roots were starting to pop through underneath between the slab and DPC.
I thought that if i put a full membrane down on the floor, the damp cannot get through? Would this solve my problem.
I presume that if I suspend a floor from the stud walls with DP membrane running underneath nearest the concrete & then partially up the side walls, inside the wall DP membrane, that should fix it.
Will my garage door continue to be a problem, although a modern up and over, there are gaps down the side and when the weather is pretty rough, it gets forced under the door onto the floor - again, more issues I presume.
I have been building up my woodworking tools for a couple of years, I am not from the trade & learning all the time - at just over 40, hopefully I will be half decent by the time I come to retire - a reasonable apprenticeship!
My problem is one of damp! I work out of my garage (hobby), and have tried to insulate it to keep warmer in the winter & reduce noise levels, as the only time I get to play out is a couple of evenings a week from about 7pm to 10pm.
Anyway, the garage is single skinned and I have managed to get about half way round with vi-screen & studded the walls then put rock wool in-between & then 6mm ply panels.
The roof is a flat one and I just put rock wool in-between the rafters and then the ply.
I have only had the roof done about 4 months and have noticed mold starting to form.
There has always been an issue as the DPC is very low and damp does seep in across the floor. It also has the metal up & over door at present. Even before I started getting too much stuff, i noticed that plywood would just start to get mold on it whilst in the garage
Having spent so much time & effort (and money) on kit & trying to build myself a nice little bolt hole, I am afraid I have no idea how to combat the rising damp!
Do I need to keep heaters on all the time? Is it an airflow problem?
Just as matter of interest, as I suffer a little from the dust, I spent quite few quid buying one of those air filtration systems, but my roof is only standard height, so it is maybe a little low - could this make the issue worse.
Any help would be really appreciated!
|Thread: knock-down Bed Rail Fasteners|
I have been searching for ages for these - thanks very much guys - i should have known better & put a post on the forum.
The little one (young daughter) wanted a mid sleeper bed & decided to base it on a swedish style bed - wanted it to be knock down & would have saved myself a HUGE amount of time and effort having to cut mortise & tenons for the whole lot.
Well its nearly done now, and we are about to move, so i can build the next one a bit faster, still saved myself about £250 on the retail by building it.
I went to Browns timber in Blackburn, which was a recommendation by you guys, good outfit and they don't sting me for being a hobbyist (retail)
Thank you everyone, i needed the kit and went ahead & purchased the SIP. I have purchased several SIP items and been immensely pleased with all of them. The morticer is no exception.
Again, i did have a good look on the market & i believe that even some of the higher end posh high price branded products, are in fact the same machine.
Which is leading me on to another thought - as when products are tested & you can clearly see that most of them have come off the same production lines, maybe the supplier/manufacturer should allow the machien to b dismantled - to really see what is the difference?
I was having a chat with a model engineer the other day, who told me that the lathe he spent 3K on, was German, although it was made in in China, it was then shipped to Germany, had a few phoshur bronze bearings fitted and the name plate changed & voila, another 1K added to the price tag.
He has a friend who purchased the Eastern version, you cannot tell the difference. Thes engineers know their eggs & they are adamant that the kit is the same.
|Thread: router fence replacement|
Bought a second hand Ryobi RT6000 router table, which appears to be identical to the Record RPMS-R with the fence split into two halves, which do not line up exactly, even though they are each independently adjustable, one is slightly out of alignment.
Having taken everything apart, it appears that one of the halves has a slight distortion on it.
I thought the best way to resolve this is to replace the fence with a one piece fence and wondered if there is a pre manufactured replacement out there on the market, or if not, has anyone got a plan to make one.
As I am still in my woodworking infancy, so any help would be very much appreciated -
I must say though - fantastic router table!
|Thread: sip bandsaws|
I am relatively new to the woodworking game, and set my workshop up from scratch over the last 18 months, several of my new purchases have been SIP products, including a 12" bandsaw, 1" heavy duty morticer, extractor - etc.
Ok - my uses may be limited by some standards, the bandsaw has been great to use, easy to swap blades, ease of purchase of blades (different from Bigpricey's model), and at a really great price.
My down sides are - the setting of mitre angles, both on the tilting table and the mitre block. I invested in a digital angle gauge and cut accurate mitres ever since.
|Thread: Mike Riley|
I do not think i am ready for that just yet!
I appreciate the skill involved using hand tools, time for me is extremely precious and whilst i try to use hand tools, power tools provide me with quick and accurate cuts etc.
I, like yourself, use both, buts what is the point sometimes of sending post by horseback rider when you can use email.
From a personal point of view, 5 times a response was typed, then deleted and commenced again.
My geat gandfather was indeed a master in the craft of woodworking & produced finished pieces of carved furniture that are now family heirlooms.
I never aspired to such greatness, just somebody seeking an interest & enjoying working with wood.
I believed that GW was a place for the professional & amateur alike, maybe an error in judgement was made & one should quitely hide away in ones workshop with my crude tools from India & China, making sub standard pieces of work & content myself to a life of enjoying woodworking without the craftmanship that i so evidently lack.
To see the reaction of Keith, was quite frankly no surprise.
I myself find myself in the absolute beginner category, but find huge satisfaction from the handling of, at times complex pieces of equipment that can transform wood into the shape you desire.
I find most of my satisfaction comes from the concept of my idea being finalised, how it got there, whether by machined hand or the manual hand really has no consequence.
Surely a good piece of work is a good piece of work?
|Thread: which router?|
I might be wrong, but a large amount of parts and motors are manufactured in China, shipped to assembly plants across Europe, then designer badges are stuck on the outside and the price is doubled?
I know some of the import stuff is cheap and inferior, but with routers, i found that you need 3 - a heavy duty one the router table, a hand held one for smaller lightweight jobs and one set up for jigs, like dovetails and signcraft, as the set uptime could take me an hour to swap plates, or take it of the table and then re-centre it again.
At £50 to £80 quid a throw and get three or fours years out of them, i feel that they are not bad value for money.
This goes back to my question about the large morticer, i decided to purchase the SIP machine and got a fantastic deal from a dealer, however, there are at leat five branded machines out there all with different badges, but are the same machine?
Sounds great Ben, unfortunately I am in the middle of a project and could do with one, so any recommendations at this point would be greatly appreciated
I wish to purchase a morticer, and the budget is about £400, including delivery fees etc. I am a hobbyist, but would prefer to purchase equipment that can do more than my current requirements & i am looking for machines that will probably be still in use, long after have i have met my maker.
I have been looking at the SIP heavy duty 1" morticer, although it appears at first glance that several other branded machines are virtually identical.
I have back read all my issues and not found any reviews.
|Thread: Pillar Drill|
|Thanks for that, i ve been on holiday, so sorry for the lateness of my response.|
|I recently purchased a floor standing pillar drill & a drum sander kit. What speed should i run the drill at when sanding. Also, it gives speeds for drill bits up to at 13mm, but nothing in excess of this size. Its a rexon 330 drill (12 speed) & dakota drum kit. Any feedback would be appreciated|
|Thread: How is GW for you?|
|Sorry, just figured it out - complete muppetry on my part - ignore the last comment - it was knats 'wing' by the way!|
I don't know if anyone has tried uploading an image yet, but 12kb, thats a few lines of text, pictorially, that a knats ****, or fine a woodshaving!
I have tried every concievable way to get an image down to this size & "failed" - sounds similar to my wood working skills - any recommendations?
|Thread: Biscuit jointers ~ good or bad?|
|As a novice, i was reluctant to use one as i thought/believed that i should make joints in the traditional way - however, if your making something for a friend or just struggling for time - as i always appear to be - its a quick fix, it makes accurate joints and i like using it for jointing up boards.|
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