Here is a list of all the postings steve h has made in our forums. Click on a thread name to jump to the thread.
|Thread: Routing angled housings|
Thanks - I started off by handplaning a piece of hardwood with a chamfer on, to attach to the baseplate of the router - it was not until that I was offering the piece up that I realised I could run it on the arms of the guide fence!
I will have to be careful when running it across the back of the seat for the through housing and passing it through the tops of the legs - I think I will get a lot of breakout if I don't support it right!
Will add some more photos - I am really enjoying this project!
29 days to get it finished and ready for delivery by a big fat bloke in a red suit - we all have to do it once a year, with or without padding!
Oh - and I have to make some shelving units to go under the daughters bed as well before the big day - SWIMBO will have to give me a few more nights in the garage I think!
This is how I routed the angled housing - not exactly technical - but it works! Tried a few different thicknesses to get the angle I wanted on MDF first.
Then tried it on the birch ply - worked a treat.
Once I got it in situ, I then took the angle from the legs and transfered this onto the two cross brace supports underneath - front and back.
I still may add another cross brace in the centre lower down, if there is to much flex in the legs?
I can now use the same jig idea for cutting the through housing at the back to fit the seat back.
Edited By steve h on 26/11/2010 08:39:13
|Sorry lads, hope I am not being a dumb dumb here, but I have the full length of the seat base both sides and then the rear through housing, - how do I cut these with a Tenon saw and coping saw?|
You have to see my hand skills Richard - it will look like the Texas chain saw massacre!
It will probably take me four times longer to cut these by hand & to be truthful - I would not know how to cut angled housings or mark them out!
I think its a jig for me - I have an idea now in my head of how to achieve this, which I have been pondering since I made my first post on this.
If I get the chance to play out tonight I will add some posts tomorrow!
Thanks - Steve
Please see picture below of the leg I have roughly shaped, I have indicated roughly were the seat back will sit into the leg frame when it comes down through the seat - as said, operating like a tenon.
I need to route an angled housing in the seat base for splaying the legs and route a through angled mortice at the back, passing through the top of the leg frame.
Does this make sense?
Thanks - Steve
|Thread: Unusual table|
Just like to add Mailee - wonderful stuff, do you need an apprentice?
|Thread: B & Q Bandsaw|
B & Q - I purchased a McAllistair random orbit sander and the rubbery foam base on the larger pad has taken a bit of hammer, so I thought I would just pop in and pick up a new one!
"sorry sir, we don't carry spares" - OK "where do I get one from" Sorry sir, I don not know!"
Last purchase from B & Q for anything like that! - now buy everything from Axminster!
And I now only purchase branded goods! - had three routers from the "shed", all useless and noisy - now got the big 1/2 inch and the smaller 1/4 inch Dewalt machines - 'lightyears' ahead!
|Thread: Routing angled housings|
On with making a chair now to go with my PC workstation and have never made a chair - I don't want it with straight legs though -
Just after a bit of advice (again!) - how can I cut angled housings with my router?
I want to cut angled housings into the seat base to create splayed legs.
At the back of the seat base, I then need to cut a mortice along the width of the back at an angle, which will also pass through into the rear leg frame, using the lower back frame as a through tenon, jamming the back seat as a support into the legs as well. This is all being done with birch ply.
(Maybe another project for Mr Fox - Video Please!)
Many thanks - Steve
|Thread: PC Workstation|
Here is a PC workstation I have made for my little one for Christmas - made from 18mm MDF.
Going to finish it with "plasticote"
I am also going to make a chair out of 18mm birch ply - and was going to use a very similar design as per the forum post 'rounding over a hole', but stoping the legs into the seat base - the only thing I am reaaly unsure of is how to fix the seat back - any thoughts on this would be appreciated.
|Thread: Alans Canteen|
Thanks for the jig link Mailee, this is just what I have been looking for! Been talking to a local plastic recycler to get some off cuts to make the jigs - will add some postings once I have made them!
|Thread: Getting your head around it?|
What started this off was the butterfly housing jig I made (in my album) where you have 2 45 degree supports. I wanted to put these in housing joints to give the item more strength, but could not figure out how wide the housings needed to be to acommodate the panels at an angle!
In turn, I have also wanted to make some nice shelving in the workshop, and wanted to know how to make the brace.
The first picture simplifies things beautifully!
But if HTH's theory is correct, that also makes life much easier.
Thanks to both of you, I will send add some pictures when I have made them.
I hope this picture explains it better.
The question again is - do you cut the angles to 45 degrees, as per the black line intersecting the vertical and horizontal or leave them as they are?
If you do cut them to the same angle, how do you calculate the width of the rebate, considering that the deeper the rebate the wider it would need to be?
Or am I just being a dum dum?
Edited By steve h on 04/11/2010 09:37:05
I am a little confused how to work out, how I cut the rebate or housings on cross braces etc.
Say you have a brace at 45 degrees and you need to cut the housings on the vertical and horizontal sections to accept the brace support.
The deeper you cut the housing affects the width of the housing - how do you work this out mathematically to produce housings that are a perfect fit for the brace and visa versa? A diagram would be great - I have do not think I have ever seen this in an article?
|Thread: Christmas pressies|
Just like to add to the chorus Derek - to a speedy recovery and back to your shed - plenty of time to add lots of postings though
|Thread: Sycamore jewellery box|
|Hi Ian, I was only looking at your company website last week and you have some impressive and amazing designs, all with suede in lays! Wow, it certainly gave me some design inspiration, some serious prices as well! - fantastic all the same!|
Just over £200 for mine Alan with the drum - which I thought was good value, the plastic version is even cheaper, although I would recommend purchasing it with the drum.
|Thread: oak table come stool|
Yes, I do like it Richard - If this was a piece that was for sale in a showroom, would it be be classed as a second though - surely it would all have to be the same colour - or at least very close? A lot of people - well I don't think, realise that timber is very different?
Sorry, am I dumbing down?
This is what is left of the orginal coffee table top I made, that went very wrong.
I cut it all down, reshaped it to make this little table come stool for my little one to use!
Ironically, when I came to stain it, you can see that the middle piece of wood stained much darker that the others - maybe it was just meant to be?
For those that are interested, I have spent a lot of time and effort trying to sort a cyclone to add to my extraction.
Following varied levels of success - I relented and purchased one from Oneida - It works brilliantly!
I have mine hooked to a Camvac with a twin motor, I think a single motor unit would not have the airspeed to create an effective cyclone. I am running virtually all of my ducting on 63mm.
|Thread: Spline Jig|
Thanks Sparky - although I put most of my success down to get woodworking and the woodworker - I am not being sarcastic!
It’s the ideas and inspiration for many a project - you see a project and although you may not like the piece in its entirety, there are many aspects that you would like to introduce into your own work!
I am still adamant that I saw that jig in the woodworker - or maybe even on this site.
By the way, my first go with a piece of red cedar, smells lovely when you work it, but it is very soft and marks very easily! Not sure if it the right sort of material for a box?
I made the box, using one piece as per the box video by Peter Dunsmore, it does make a huge difference when the grain pattern runs around the box and around each corner!
Want the latest issue of The Woodworker & Good Woodworking? Use our magazine locator links to find your nearest stockist!
We're always happy to hear from you, so feel free to get in touch!