Here is a list of all the postings Andy King has made in our forums. Click on a thread name to jump to the thread.
|Thread: The Woodworker subscription chisel sets|
Not sure about the small tool set, but I was playing around with a set of the Faithfull chisels at the Ally Pally show on our stand.
I was surprised how good they are for a budget set. The backs didn't need too much work, and the steel felt hard on the stone and honed up well. Certainly worth having even as a secondary set of bashers to back up your top end bench ones!
The blades actually remind me in look and feel of Bahco blades, and if that's the case, no bad thing!
|Thread: July Edition of "The Woodworker"|
Wheel size is also a factor on the throat capacity.
Allowing for the fact the blade is travelling inside the throat on the upstroke, the bandwheel diameter will affect the overall distance you can push between it and the downstroke side of the blade, so wider wheels give wider throat capacity.
|Thread: Best finish for Ash|
Blimey Derek, that's a new experience for me, actually getting something right!!!
|Morning chaps, I recommended water based lacquer (sold by Chestnut and Behlen amongst others) as it doesn't have a yellow cast as a fluid, unlike oils or polys, so any applied keeps it a pretty pale finish. I made a pine cupboard and sprayed it with waterbased lacquer some years back for the mag and although it has darkened down as the light has acted upon it, it's not the horrible yellow you normally get, it's still retained a natural pine look. Ash is likely to darken much the same over the course of time, but as pointed out by Mike and others, it won't have that initial yellow cast of an oil or oil based finish. As i mentioned in the original advice (I think...) when you apply water based stuff, it looks milky with a slight blue tinge, but dries back perfectly clear, so on pale timbers, I find it tends to retain a natural look. Of course, ideally the best bet is to try it on a scrap piece or an area that won't be seen beforehand, but you don't need me to tell you that! cheers, Andy|
|Thread: Tifflin' & fiddlin' & fettlin'|
looking at the first flattening pic on the smoother, it looks like you have contact points at the toe and heel, plus both sides of the mouth and just starting around the periphery. Now while the purists will say that isn't enough, I'd be happy with that, the start of any cut is bedding on a flat, the area in front of the blade then tracks this as the cutter bites, followed by the flattening behind the mouth. The hollow behind is pretty irelevant as the start of any cut should have pressure on the toe of the plane. As it progresses, the final flat at the heel comes into play, and everything is hunky dory as its bedding on all four areas. As the plane exits the cut, the weight is transfered to the heel, so it's still all aligned through the cut.
The Japanese wooden planes are usually hollowed like this, so why not a steel one? It where you have a twist, hollow or convexity that you have problems. As i said, I try 'em first, then try and see what is wrong after!
Hi Mike (G)
I wouldn't have any problems using yours, or anyone elses plane - I'm a big advocate of trying tools first, then trying to solve problems if they arise. I can never understand why people want to flatten a plane for no reason! Why try and solve a problem if it isn't there? Same as making shavings and taking pictures with micrometers to show how fine they are. I can do it with a bog standard Stanley, with the blade supplied, but if you have to take a bit off at sub thou levels, you'll be there a while! I prefer to do woodwork with my tools, not take pics of shavings... although saying that, I do demo at shows with a couple of planes taking very fine shavings to convince people that technique is the most important thing in sharpening, not to have a range of stones and gadgets.
I use one Trend diamond stone, a piece of leather and honing paste if i want to tweak it a little more, but I usually use it straight off the stone. This is more important to me than any high end engineering. Don't get me wrong, it's really nice to be able to use a top end plane and see how well they really perform, but you can get pretty good results with minimal effort if you want to. As long as the sole is not twisted or bent and the iron beds down well without chattering, you can get decent results.
I used to work with a few old boys who didn't even consider 'fettling and flattening' - their hand and eye skills were more than enough to bring any board into shape, and watching a couple of them shooting edges for rub joints was a joy to behold, and that is equally important. Owning the best tools won't make you any better if you don't know how to drive them!
|Thread: The Safest Saw in the World|
|Hi Baz, If you do that yourself, i think you are fine, but if a company here imports and then sells stuff that doesn't have CE regs, that, i'm pretty sure, is a problem. Olly, the ones i'm referring to are quite well thought of, and are based on the Delta Unisaw in the USA. Most people who buy them want to be 'Norm' as these have the option of a long arbor for dado blades. The saws come from Taiwan as far as i'm aware. I' spoke with a guy I know at HSE regarding the dado/arbor, to try and get a definitive answer, and also asked about the CE regulation. He told me that all saws have to be CE regulated, and that although small tools or stuff that isn't deemed overly dangerous can be self CE regged, saws, and other equally dangerous machines have to be done independently. He said that they would be very interested in looking at companies that sell non compliant tools, but would need an official complaint to do so. He also said although these saws are likely to be well made and do their jobs properly, should an accident occur that needs a HSE investigation, the importer would be liable for a massive fine. I mentioned this on a similar thread over on UKW a year or so back, and one of the mods emailed the company to see if they had any saws that were CE regged and they replied that they were going through the process at the time. Whether they are now, I don't know. I'll not mention the company by name, but they sell saws that sound remarkably like King Arthurs sword...|
to follow on from Ben's post, I'm pretty sure all of the Record fences have the same ability to be pulled back for ripping timber.
I tested the TS200 that Ben has (it is a great saw for the price, if I didn't have my Kity 419, I'd get one)
Just finished writing up a test on the Record TS315 panel saw with scoring facility and this has the same fence design. Record are usually pretty good at getting this sort of thing right.
I saw a prototype of the TS200 about two years back and it took another 18 months before they were happy and it met all the CE regs. It cost Record a huge sum of money to get the saw to the criteria, but they do it for every tool they sell. I've seen the CE documentation on that saw alone and it is about the size of a telephone directory!
There are some saws imported into the uk without the CE certification, and to be honest, I don't know how they can do it, i'm pretty sure its illegal to sell machinery without this certification?
|Thread: Festool owners|
|Forgot to add, the downside is, it nicks your shop vac for the suction source, so if you need it for extraction when routing on the minimach, you need another source or a 'Y' connector and a couple of hoses. Not too sure if having a split connector on the hose would compromise the suction power though... Oh yes, it's great for routing stuff, and also for ripping sheet material. Build one big enough and you can do full sheets easily enough. I've been considering building a suction table into the workshop with a cover over it so I have it as a standard worksurface for general use, and also as a vac surface if needed. One for the to do list! Andy PS. Ben, if you you have access to Good Woodworking archive discs or back issues, I did a build your own minimach using the Umach kit way back in issue 102 if you want to scan it and load it up?|
|Hi Mike, They grip unbelievably well! The idea is to have a flat surface to sit the Minimach device on, so if you bench has a tool well or dog holes, it would need a temporary board on top. MDF is ideal. The Minimach or your own home made one has a rubber gasket on the underside around its outer edge that sucks down to the flat surface via the valve on the end. The top of it has similar gasket, divided into individual cells, each one with a small ball bearing valve. Put any flat stock on a cell, and as long as it covers the gasket for that cell, the ball bearing depresses and allows the air in that cell to be sucked out and held firmly. The more cells it covers, the better, but I've made small plaques and shields and held them easily on a single cell for routing the edges. Sideways pressure such as planing may cause it to move a little on a single cell, but cover a load of them and you should secure it enough to be able to work, but it does need to be flat to seal the cells. The minimach is capable of supporting half a sheet of 19mm ply overhanging its edge, so has plenty of suction, and works off a standard vac or shop vac. I don't think it's compatible with Cyclone types such as Dysons though. Toby the inventor has some clever ideas, where you can make special shaped jigs to lift away from the main surface if you have an odd profile and need to deep rout an edge where it would damage the main surface for example. Simply cut a piece of MDF to the shape you need ensuring it covers the cells, use spare gasket to form a seal on the top surface, drill a hole and place it on top of the main minimach. Once the suction is applied, the minimach sucks to the table, and once the workpiece is placed on the auxiliary jig to form a seal, the air evacuates from the minimach, and the jig, pulling the workpiece down in the process. Simple but brilliant! Why didn't I invent it... Andy|
I've seen a similar vacuum system by Lamello, but for some reason, they don't seem to market it here.
I doubt if I could ever run to the expense of a Festool vac clamp, but i've used the MiniMach from Trend loads of times. Same principle, but without the tilt etc.
When I used to bump into Toby Cardew, the inventor (he lives in Canada now) he always had new ideas about making additional jigs to use with the for odd shape and stuff.
There are also a couple of kits available, UMach and BigMach so you can make your own vac clamps to suit.
|Thread: Chisels V. Health & Safety|
You're lucky to be alive Mike!!!
|Thread: Cleaning sap off a saw|
One thing to maybe check is that the blade doesn't have a slight kink after it got jammed in the cut.
The back is meant to help prevent it, but it can happen. If it's kinked, it's unlikley worth the bother, but if its got a wave or slight buckle, you can get it out by turning the saw over, holding the handle and lightly tapping the back on the bench or a block of wood. It should hopefullt rreseat the blade deeper into the back and straighten any slight bends or buckles.
i've done it many times on old saws with folded backs, but the new trend of solid backs with a slit relying on adhesive as used by Lie Nielsen, adria etc doesn't give you much chance of any adjustments if the blade does move a little.
The theory is, I suppose, that the accuracy of the initial slit should kep the blade straight, but a jolt through the blade could still cause them to move.
Incidntally, as you thought, the coating on the blade is usually a light lacquer to keep rust at bay while in storage or on display.
hope this helps.
|Thread: Chisels V. Health & Safety|
Sounds to me like the only clots here are the jobsworths who get paid to come up with these ridiculous notions!
What about other situations where your hands strike things? Olga Korbut would have conked out halfway through her first routine in the olympics!
|Thread: What magazines do you read.|
I've only known Ben a very short while, but again, as you say, like Nick he is a great bloke, and very passionate about his woodwork and for this website and the mags to succeed.
We are certainly striving to give the best we can to everyone - not always easy trying to find a project/review/feature that will appeal to all, especially as we try to cater for a broad spectrum in both magazines and also keep both magazines fresh and vibrant.
Good to se we've just got our 3000th member, a great achievement in such a short space of time, Ben has worked unbelievably hard to get the website working well, and he's certainly done a great job in my eyes.
It's good to see members of other forums posting here regularly as well, this one feels like it's been running for years already, and that's a good thing!
I try and look in as much as I can, but I do miss stuff as I'm involved in the mag work, so if anyone wants to ask anything specific of me, please don't feel i'm ignoring you, it may be that i've missed it...
Having worked with both of them, I have to say, hand on heart, Nick and Phil are great guys - about as different as chalk and cheese in methods, but both very dedicated in what they do.
Me and Phil still meet up about once a month for mag stuff and of course, a doughnut!
It was sad that Nick didn't carry on as editor when we were sold, he has great vision and enthusiasm, as can be seen in his new magazine or if you meet him at shows. I knew when he told me about his new venture it would be high quality.
It's always nice for me to bump into him at a show as we seem to carry on where we left off, I used to have some great laughs with him. He is definitely a top bloke!
baz wrote (see)
Ah! The Beano! My first venture into the world of publishing! Apart from myself and my kids being in the Dennis the Menace fan Club (DING) I had two letters printed as well - One aged 21, the other aged 22!
PS. I also won a blue Peter badge when I was 34!
|Thread: Hello All|
Pill was always in Somerset, but then for some ridiculous reason, we became part of Avon and under the umbrella of Bristol (I have a friend who christened his son Somerset in disgust at the decision!)
It's right on the mouth of the Avon, if you drive down the M5 and over the Avonmouth bridge, it's the village directly below it by Gordano services. Avonmouth itself is on the opposite bank of the river, although Pill is directly opposite Shirehampton as our nearest neighbour.
If I recall correctly, the river acts as the natural boundary for the counties, with parts of gloucester on that shoreline, along with parts of Bristol as well.
We became North Somerset a few years back, and certainly all the people around here were very happy with that!
Yes indeed, another North Somerset boy here - born and bred in Pill, centre of the universe!!!
Welcome to the forum!
|Thread: The london woodworking show|
Ron Davis wrote (see)
Ah, the letter I presume? I think it was from my mum!
I've always maintained that my picture is handy on the mantlepiece to keep the kids away from the fire...
|Thread: Festool router/ Andy King|
|Hi Jason, Yep, had a brief tour of the router and it's pretty impressive (price isn't, about £600!!!) Anyway, the plunge is very neat, now a simple twist operation on the handle, not like the old Elu96, this is on top of the grip, rather like a fine height adjuster. Quick release bases are clever as well for templating, guide rails etc. I've definitely got my name down for a loan sample for a test as soon as they are out! Cheers, Andy|
Want the latest issue of The Woodworker incorporating Good Woodworking? Use our magazine locator links to find your nearest stockist!
We're always happy to hear from you, so feel free to get in touch!